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Fri Jun 16, 2017 9:45 am

Looking for some input on what is good to go with engine cages (what/where to buy). I have bent in one of my pushrod tubes just goofing around (nothing serious, they're slightly stronger than a soda can...). I was planning to get some aftermarket EMPI pushrod tubes (with jam nuts) and seals, and check to make sure my pushrods are in good shape (not bent, also).

Anyway, to prevent any more damage to the engine/exhaust in general, I really need to put a cage on this thing. It's a '68 baja with a 1600 DP. I have access to a MIG welder so I'm fine ordering a kit to save on shipping. I'm just a total newbie in terms of what's out there and the pros/cons of it all.

I have seen models that mount to the shock tower, and some that mount to the firewall. Is one "better" than the other? Are there any brands or types that are particularly good, or BAD?

Also, are there any roof racks out there that are a little beefier, kind of geared for the offroad crowd? Most of what I see is chrome shiny stuff with wooden panels etc... Not quite what I'm looking for. Making my own would be a good project but honestly I'd prefer to get a kit or prefabbed unit unless it's absurdly spendy.

Thanks for any help.

Fri Jun 16, 2017 10:30 am

i can tell you right now, those empi pushrod tubes will leak. just so you are warned. the factory style tubes are what i suggest you use. they will not leak if installed correctly. as for your engine cage, is your car caged or not? if not, your best bet is something like this https://www.amazon.com/SHOCK-TOWER-BUMPER-buggy-cooled/dp/B003KKKML4

then add a skid plate.

you can also use factory sled tins if you have heater boxes, or industrial tins if you dont have heater boxes.

Fri Jun 16, 2017 10:49 am

I was looking at those pushrod tubes to avoid more dissasembly of the engine. If the factory style are the best then I'll probably go that route and learn a little about how the motor is put together.

edit to add: Not caged. It's basically a stock car with baja body kit and bigger tires. Rear torsion bars may be rotated 1 spline.

Fri Jun 16, 2017 3:11 pm

I Ride Sand wrote: i can tell you right now, those empi pushrod tubes will leak.

A long time ago I bought a set of those fancy tube's too...I was meticulous on the installation to make sure they were properly sealed...it wasn't even 3 days before I had my first oil drip :cry: ...they look pretty but belong in trailer Queens and drag motors...what happens to a coil spring when you add heat :roll: , it gets lazy and looses it's power to hold pressure against the head and case.

I second that quote. 8)

Fri Jun 16, 2017 3:56 pm

It's a no brainer. Buy a bender, make your stuff the way you want it, then make some money off of some locals. Don't bolt your rear cage to the firewall unless there is a cage to tie it into.

Fri Jun 16, 2017 4:20 pm

There is other than empi when it comes to parts. I have some Jaycee tubes on my turbo motor and they don't leak a drop. Been like 5years now.

Fri Jun 16, 2017 5:09 pm

What I didn't want to do is remove the heads. I can believe the spring-loaded models giving way, but I was looking at some threaded tubes I figured would hold up much better. Here's the link.

http://www.jbugs.com/product/9139.html

My thought was to pull the pushrods and see if any are bent, and replace them if need be, replace the tubes, and tune up the valves/rockers putting everything back together.

One tube is wet with oil as is (bent/crushed), but doesn't drip or actively leak, but the left side does have some valve area ticking going on that I would like to resolve. I have adjusted the valves and it's still there, I'm thinking side-to-side play but haven't got around to checking it just yet. I think I'm going to put it in the garage this weekend maybe and give everything a good looking over.

Fri Jun 16, 2017 8:13 pm

I've always had the engine cages that mounted to the shock towers and the horns. I think it's better than the fire wall mount, gives you more room for dual carbs and easier on and off. My '64 baja also had a skid plate that mounted to the engine cage one that was made to fit, but any piece of metal would work to keep debris from flying up and getting your tubes.

Both of my buggies also were set up to tow a light weight trailer with the engine cage a nice addition if you need camping gear, scuba gear or beer.

Fri Jun 16, 2017 9:24 pm

Jaycee is the only set you should be looking at other than stock. They are $90 though, but will last you for a very long time and more durable than stock. All the jayCee sets I have installed on customers and my own motors have been leak free. If they ever do need to be re-sealed they are a snap to do. I have never found another type other than stock that did not leak and that is over decades of trying.

As for a rear cage you said the magic word mig welder... So I would not mess with a shock mount style rear cage and here is why: If you were putting in a full cage that gives you the chance to do it right and tie the rear cage in to some real support area using flange ends or spigot ends. When you install a skid plate you have to make sure the hits the skid plate takes transmits that shock to something solid that doesn't flex. If you weld tube along the frame horns from the torsion housing ending in a flange or spigot at the trans saddle, you accomplish the added benefit of strengthing the frame horns and something to bolt up the rear cage to. When you put in your full cage bring it back to the firewall with a cross plate between the rear tubing ends. You now have a way to bring the upper rear cage tubes up to the opposite side of the firewall and add a flange mount. Now when your skid plate takes a hit it transmits the shock to the main cage. Shock mount rear cages with the lower saddle mounts can allow enough flex from hitting the skid plate to allow the skid to hit the engine case if it is not sturdy enough, having a full cage eliminates having to use shock mount cages.

Sun Jun 18, 2017 2:38 pm

id get the shock mount style the firewall ones kinda suck. I have one and i took a hit to it broke the top welds on my firewall.

Sun Jun 18, 2017 3:44 pm

Rickosuave had a firewall mount and tore the firewall out of the back of the body. Firewall mount is fine as long as it has roll cage on the other side of the firewall that it's connected to. This is not just about offroad use. It's even more important for street than for offroad. Little bumper-thumper collisions mean nothing to a Baja Bug with a bumper mounted to a roll cage. It can easily destroy the whole back of a Baja with no bumper or one with a bumper mounted to just the firewall.

Tue Jul 04, 2017 2:24 pm

I installed these on my wife's 1600 DP in her buggy and they don't leak, she drives it all the time and even did a 4600 mile road trip last year.
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C15%2D20191

Tue Jul 04, 2017 11:13 pm

Well I went on a shopping spree...

Got side rails, cleaned, primed and painted them. Installed them and all went well enough there. There's some rust on the body that I knew about that's a little worse than I thought that's going to need repair sooner or later. Not critical really, but I hate rust.

Also ordered an EMPI front tube bumper, along with an emergency flasher relay that shit the bed on me, and some fuses to replace the ones I kept blowing before I figured the former out... Did I ever tell you I was a Marine? :lol: :oops:

I got the shock mount rear bumper/engine cage kit. I'll get to that once I get the relay installed and have brake lights and turn signals. Have a Mig welder at work I can use after hours.

And finally I ordered some jaycee pushrod tubes and silicon seals. I pulled all the pushrods and they're straight. I tried straightening out the worst crushed pushrod tube and just poked a hole in it so now it leaks oil properly.

One bonus, however; while re-mounting the valve train one of the 8mm nuts completely let go. Was left with a free-spinning doughnut and the threads separated and stayed on the stud. I think it had been on the edge of death for a while because I had some ticking from the left side of the engine that went away when I installed new nuts and adjusted the valves. I had adjusted valves before but it did not kill the tick. Think that nut was just barely holding on and the whole valve train was moving/clicking held on mostly only by one nut.

So now I'm wondering if it's not worth it to get a little 120V MIG welder for body work and this thin-walled tubing. Or if I should hold out and get a 220v unit that I can use on > 1/4" material (buy once cry once is what I'm thinking). Only real issue is that there aren't any spare 220v outlets where I am and no breaker space....

Anyway, always something :) But the wheels of progress are spinning.