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  View original topic: Need your expertise describing this 1969 Baja
GabitaM Thu Jun 29, 2017 7:44 am

My husband picked up this 1969 Baja and got it running. He is thinking of selling it, but we don't know anything about these vehicles. Based on these photos, can you tell me anything about it? Very grateful for any assistance.


















Mal evolent Thu Jun 29, 2017 8:19 am

a side shot would help

1969 VW Baja bug, raised 3" ( maybe - that's why we need the side shot ), 6 point roll cage, fuel cell can be determined from the pictures

Third Thu Jun 29, 2017 9:32 am

Agree with needing a few more pics. As said, a straight-on side shot; a head-on front shot (bumper height, from about 15 feet); same for the rear. Also might be helpful (at least when you sell it) to get some shots of the "pans" (under the car, floorboards as big a shot as you can fit in to show condition).

Easy spots are that:

1) it is an IRS (independent rear suspension (preferred for most off-road applications)
2) the off-road lights look to be 5x SR5's (the four up top look to be spot, the two up from *may* be floods) as well as a pair of fog lamps (the yellow ones)
3) see if there is a label on the seat belts that matches the Corbeau shoulder pads (that will tell you the brand) and also see if there is a center strap under the seat (if there is, it's a 5-point harness, if not it's a 4-point harness)
4) EMPI trigger shifter
5) custom light panel on dash
6) billet parking brake handle
7) new wiring harness (don't think that one is a Rebel, so it could be anything but it has plenty of circuits)
8) EMPI exhaust with "U" and spark arrester ? (can't see the bottom tip of the exhaust pipe clearly)
9) LED tail lights

Third Thu Jun 29, 2017 9:49 am

Also set up for a tow bar
Aftermarket pedals
Fiberglass Baja body kit

(nice dog, btw)

;)

GabitaM Thu Jun 29, 2017 9:49 am

Thank you so much for your comments! I will ask my husband to take more pictures. We really appreciate it.

Third Thu Jun 29, 2017 10:04 am

After market racing seats (not sure of brand)
Remote oil filter
Chrome fan housing
Aftermarket shocks
Aftermarket bolt-on valve covers
Billet oil cap

The engine is a "dual port" (at least 1600)
Stainless steel braided fuel lines (see if there are the same type material on the oil lines going to the filter)

I Ride Sand Thu Jun 29, 2017 10:37 am

who thought it would be a good idea to grease the brakes!?!? :shock:

GabitaM Thu Jun 29, 2017 11:02 am

Thanks again!

We don't have a lot in terms of provenance of the car, so we really appreciate the comments.

Cul-tech Thu Jun 29, 2017 2:39 pm

It also has rack and pinion steering.

veeweeman Thu Jun 29, 2017 7:32 pm

A very liberal amount of grease was used in the front end ...I would suspect a lot of excess play in worn out suspension and steering parts...I would definitely get that front end checked out.

I Ride Sand Fri Jun 30, 2017 12:22 am

I don't think it was a liberal amount of grease, but rather just white lithium grease from a spray can.

GabitaM Fri Jun 30, 2017 5:35 am

Thanks for pointing out the grease. I asked my husband about that. He grew up on a farm in the "old country". He said that every day his job was to grease all moving parts of the farm equipment to protect them from the elements. Old habits die hard I suppose.

Dr OnHolliday Fri Jun 30, 2017 1:26 pm

I see significant body rust in the rear roof inside the car. I suspect rust (or repairs) to the lower body and pan.

dustymojave Sun Jul 02, 2017 12:58 am

Applying grease to the inside of joints where parts move is good. Applying grease to the outside of rubber attracts and holds dirt. Grease that gets on parts such as brakes is bad. The parts of this car where grease has been applied to the outside of joints it was not designed to have grease on. It does more harm than good there. It's best cleaned off whether you keep the car or sell it. If it was meant to keep out salt from roads, the sheet metal of the body needs it more than the places it shows in those pictures. That's not a good use for grease though either. If you intend to sell the car, it will sell better if it does not have grease smeared around in inappropriate places.

It looks like a decent car with little rust. As though it has not spent it's life in Illinois.

Much more concern is the gas filler hose where it should be attached to the top of the gas tank. It is NOT attached. The clamp is slipped off and the hose is just sitting there. Filling the gas tank could easily fill the interior of the car with gas. That would be VERY dangerous. The gas tank is not well mounted inside the car and looks ready to tip over. What would hold the tank in place if somebody drove the car on a rough road? Again, VERY dangerous!

That tank is NOT a fuel cell. It is a GAS TANK. A "fuel cell" has a bladder inside to actually hold the fuel and prevent leaks even if the tank is crushed in a crash. With foam inside that to prevent sloshing and rapid movement in the event the bladder is cut.

The tank should have a full framework to support it. Then it should have steel straps over the top to hold it in place in that frame even in a severe crash.

Having such a tank in that location is like a race car and is fine, if it's done even near right. That installation as it is now is dangerous and needs a bunch of work before the car is driven.

Seat belts laying on the battery will absorb battery acid and be destroyed and spread acid onto other things like clothes. The battery box should have a lid on it they're available at places like WalMart for like $15. The battery should be held in place by SOMETHING other than gravity that only works when the car is sitting still! Not just sitting inside a box that isn't held in place either.

The sloppy wiring laying across moving parts like the shift linkage is a great way to cut wires and cause shorts right next to a gas tank that is likely to leak as it is. KaBoom is the expected sound, followed by the crackling of flames.

The shoulder belts fastened low behind the back are rather dangerous to the spine and won't do much if you run into something. The lap belts are mickey mouse mounted to the seat frames and are dangerous. Stock 1969 VW 3-point seat belts would be far safer.

Pretty nice car if some crappy workmanship is fixed by someone who knows what they are doing and how it should be done.

The engine is probably a 1600 or bigger. How big it actually is can only be determined with a special tool called a P&G Meter I don't expect mechanics to have. Pretty much only race car inspectors will have them. Or by taking the engine apart and measuring. Just know that it's at least a 1600. The engine block does not have a serial number because the block is a replacement part. The serial number would show in the picture where you can see "1-4-3-2", which is the cylinder firing order. The serial number would be just below the firing order. It is the type engine block that would be found in a 1971 or later 1600 engine. It may very well have bigger cylinders and pistons installed.

GabitaM Sun Jul 02, 2017 9:26 am

Thank you so much dustymojave for all of this great information! We were wondering about the gas tank situation ourselves. And now to find someone within a 200 mile radius who knows anything about how to fix this stuff :?

Notrega Wed Jul 05, 2017 7:07 pm

Remember there is a classified section of the forum if you decide to sell...

corradolvr Thu Jul 06, 2017 9:38 am

Being a former professional installer, I really don't like the wiring. Especially where the fuse box is sitting.



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