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Jason37 Wed Nov 04, 2020 7:39 am

Congrats! Looking forward to seeing a video of it running and some rolling down the freeway shots.

Bobnotch Wed Nov 04, 2020 10:39 am

Agreed, Congrats on getting it running. You're further along than Steve, as he's only had his running on a stand (before he took it apart again). :roll: :lol:
Look forward to seeing some pics of it in action. 8)

nogoodwithusernames Wed Nov 04, 2020 10:49 am

Alright! Let's get some good action shots posted up huh?

djway3474 Thu Nov 05, 2020 7:37 pm


Empi Fuch with a tire for the Smart Car. The tire has the sidewall of a 135 but a much wider contact patch. Would only go in one way, barely.
Also fitted jack and hung the wiper fluid bottle.

Clatter Fri Nov 06, 2020 4:16 pm

Super stoked for you.
Can't wait to get back to normal and see this one at some events.

WRT D-Jet and cams..
Any cam with some more duration, say Web73 or more,
the increased overlap and reversion in the intake tract causes the flapper door to flail around at idle.
This movement of the flapper the brain perceives as an acceleration event;
It's smart enough to see the rapid movement of the flapper, and adds fuel, such as an accelerator pump on a carb.
A bigger cam can just totally fuck with it though..
So, once you get the wideband on it, and go get your flapper spring dialed in, both tension and baseline
(plus move the wafer board around if you're really brave/anal)
Don't be surprised if your idle mixture ends up wonky - likely rich.
Increasing the size of the bypass air circuit, drilling a hole in the throttle plate, higher idle speed, lots of different tricks to get idle where you want it - once you have the highway running dialed in perfect.

I'm sure you know this already, but hit me up if it decides to give you a hard time.
2270 is a really big motor to be feeding with L-jet.
Increased fuel pressure, bigger TB, bigger injectors..
Luckily, there were many more-powerful cars from the period running L-Jet you can get parts from.

Again,
Super super stoked for you.
This car is coming out really nice.

Wish i could be there to help tune it. 8)

djway3474 Fri Nov 06, 2020 9:11 pm

Clatter wrote: Super stoked for you.
Can't wait to get back to normal and see this one at some events.

WRT D-Jet and cams..
Any cam with some more duration, say Web73 or more,
the increased overlap and reversion in the intake tract causes the flapper door to flail around at idle.
This movement of the flapper the brain perceives as an acceleration event;
It's smart enough to see the rapid movement of the flapper, and adds fuel, such as an accelerator pump on a carb.
A bigger cam can just totally fuck with it though..
So, once you get the wideband on it, and go get your flapper spring dialed in, both tension and baseline
(plus move the wafer board around if you're really brave/anal)
Don't be surprised if your idle mixture ends up wonky - likely rich.
Increasing the size of the bypass air circuit, drilling a hole in the throttle plate, higher idle speed, lots of different tricks to get idle where you want it - once you have the highway running dialed in perfect.

I'm sure you know this already, but hit me up if it decides to give you a hard time.
2270 is a really big motor to be feeding with L-jet.
Increased fuel pressure, bigger TB, bigger injectors..
Luckily, there were many more-powerful cars from the period running L-Jet you can get parts from.

Again,
Super super stoked for you.
This car is coming out really nice.

Wish i could be there to help tune it. 8)

JAKE??????
I recognize that paragraph LOL.
One thing I am learning is that when the car first starts the alternator works hard to bring the battery up full, doesn't last long but the cold motor doesn't like it.
I am also understanding that this motor will require a slight depression of the go pedal to start.
Right now I can back the idle screw all the way out and not get RPM where I like it BUT it is way to rich so I expect that to improve with a leaner mix as well as getting it good n warm should. If not enough RPM after all that I was considering the hole in the plate.
As for the size of motor and the old L jet I will normally shift between 3.8 to 5K so it becomes a matter of Can it keep up at WOT under 5K.
It would be nice to have someone keep it running until I can get back there.....
Nothing accomplished today as an entire squirrel flock got ahold of me before I was completely awake and ran me off on a chase for parts for the next project.
SQUIRRELs

djway3474 Thu Nov 12, 2020 12:13 am

Little update. After 8465.3 times checking the 02 meter at idle and 2000rpm then back to the AFM for an adjustment I started to get the hang of it.
I made myself a chart of what to do if say the idle was rich and 2000rpm was lean, what readings I should have at what RPM and other little tips which helped keep me on track.
I am pleased to announce that I now idle at 14.5 Stoich and I am at 14.5 Stoich at 2000RPM.
At first I tried going lighter on the spring in hopes of getting a start without a foot on the pedal but it got to the point the spring wouldn't shut the flap and it still would not start without an assist so I reset and started going the other direction.
The combination of the wiper, which is extremely sensitive, and the spring is kind of like adjusting ride height with the torsion bars. To get where you want to be you must move the wiper one direction then adjust the spring the other way to fine tune.
Now I just have the highway tune left, then the final tweek to idle and 2000.
Another little project today was a low voltage alarm also known as a workaround for the lack a genny light to let me know the belt let go.
A solution occured to me late one night when I recalled watching some videos of Porsches run around Nuremburg. When they switch on power there is an audible alarm and some dash lights. I wondered if that was for the alternator/fan warning so I started my search which led me to this little device


It is an audible alarm and has two leds for low voltage and proper voltage. The little pot on the upper left is the sensitivity which I set so the alarm was sounding when the alternator was not turning. Now when I power up the car there is an alarm and a little red light, once the car fires the light goes green and the alarm goes off. I'm a Ricky Racer 8) At some point I will wire the lights so I can place them in a spot to catch my view. I would place the low voltage warning in the genny light location but it is such a paint to get to that gauge I will find some other place.
Worked on the wire harness for the AC and a light for the CHT gauge that had none. A little bit more wire work and then it is onto the AC hose n fittings.
Starting to think this may happen.

Bobnotch Thu Nov 12, 2020 12:43 pm

So you didn't connect the green wire from the gen/alt to the blue wire at the VR location? That would have given you the gen light in the stock location. We did that on Rob's car with a T-4 and alt combo.

djway3474 Thu Nov 12, 2020 4:09 pm

Bobnotch wrote: So you didn't connect the green wire from the gen/alt to the blue wire at the VR location? That would have given you the gen light in the stock location. We did that on Rob's car with a T-4 and alt combo.
Itís a single wire self exciting alternator. If you connect to genny light it stays on.

Bobnotch Fri Nov 13, 2020 9:36 am

djway3474 wrote: Bobnotch wrote: So you didn't connect the green wire from the gen/alt to the blue wire at the VR location? That would have given you the gen light in the stock location. We did that on Rob's car with a T-4 and alt combo.
Itís a single wire self exciting alternator. If you connect to genny light it stays on.

AH, ok. I didn't know it was a single wire set up. But then we used a stock Bosch T-4 alt in his conversion.

djway3474 Sun Nov 22, 2020 10:06 pm

After what feels like 30 days in the hole I think I finally have most of the electrical under dash figured out. Added a foot well interior light and also got the air conditioning evaporator unit installed.
The fuel gauge had been pegging when power applied, best I could figure it was some kind of power leak that was going into the unit. I wound up isolating the unit from the rest of the gauge then ran its own power circuit and that seems to have worked. I was also able to place a light in the generator position that I wired up to the speaker on my low-voltage warning device. When the speakers going the light is on.
I wound up moving the fuse block onto the firewall which allows a little bit of room to get in behind the dash, barely.
I am going to figure out someway to fill the gaps between the dash and the AC to keep the foot well light from coming through, but thatís for a later date.
Under the AC unit I have my head temp gauge and my air fuel meter.


Bobnotch Mon Nov 23, 2020 9:45 am

djway3474 wrote: After what feels like 30 days in the hole I think I finally have most of the electrical under dash figured out. Added a foot well interior light and also got the air conditioning evaporator unit installed.
The fuel gauge had been pegging when power applied, best I could figure it was some kind of power leak that was going into the unit. I wound up isolating the unit from the rest of the gauge then ran its own power circuit and that seems to have worked. I was also able to place a light in the generator position that I wired up to the speaker on my low-voltage warning device. When the speakers going the light is on.
I wound up moving the fuse block onto the firewall which allows a little bit of room to get in behind the dash, barely.
I am going to figure out someway to fill the gaps between the dash and the AC to keep the foot well light from coming through, but thatís for a later date.
Under the AC unit I have my head temp gauge and my air fuel meter.



That looks fantastic. I especially like how well lit up the foot wells are. What did you use there for lighting? My son was looking at doing something like that with his own car, but never got it that bright.
It's all the little details that make it look so great, like the tach in the dash, and clock horn button, to the mini cluster on the top of the dash pad. 8)

djway3474 Mon Nov 23, 2020 10:36 am

The footwell light is a self adhesive led light strip, I chose a warm light around 3500k iirc. It runs side to side on the rear of the AC. Similar to the strip I used inside the dash gauges.
I tapped into the dome light ground wire. I think I will put in an off switch so I can leave the door open without light if desired.
Thanks for the kind words.

andybla Tue Nov 24, 2020 12:45 pm

Very nice detail!

djway3474 Tue Nov 24, 2020 6:21 pm

I canít get the upper pop out window to seat. I have played around a bit but canít improve the seal. Any suggestions?


I have completed installing seats and seatbelts




djway3474 Tue Nov 24, 2020 6:24 pm


mdege Tue Nov 24, 2020 11:14 pm

Quote: I canít get the upper pop out window to seat. I have played around a bit but canít improve the seal. Any suggestions?

Do you have the plastic/rubber sleeves on the hinges?

They should bring the window forward a bit. I just replaced the outer seal on on of my windows but don't have the new sleeves yet. And my window has the same issue.

djway3474 Wed Nov 25, 2020 12:25 am

mdege wrote: Quote: I canít get the upper pop out window to seat. I have played around a bit but canít improve the seal. Any suggestions?

Do you have the plastic/rubber sleeves on the hinges?

They should bring the window forward a bit. I just replaced the outer seal on on of my windows but don't have the new sleeves yet. And my window has the same issue.
I donít have those in either window. I couldnít get them started into the slot.
Let me know if it helps.

Mike Fisher Wed Nov 25, 2020 7:30 am

djway3474 wrote: mdege wrote: Quote: I canít get the upper pop out window to seat. I have played around a bit but canít improve the seal. Any suggestions?

Do you have the plastic/rubber sleeves on the hinges?

They should bring the window forward a bit. I just replaced the outer seal on on of my windows but don't have the new sleeves yet. And my window has the same issue.
I donít have those in either window. I couldnít get them started into the slot.
Let me know if it helps.
My popouts fit good & don't leak with electrical tape on the hinges.

Loren Wed Nov 25, 2020 10:40 am

This looks fantastic! You did another amazing job!!! Here you have finished multiple projects and I am still trying to finish one :oops:



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