TheSamba.com :: View topic

Wed Jul 05, 2017 2:05 pm

I'm attempting to put in a new main seal but I can't get the gland nut off that holds the flywheel. I'm using my breaker bar with my jack handle as a cheater bar which extends about 5 feet. So far all iv been able to do is bend my breaker bar. I'm not trying to spend any more money but should I buy one of those torque multipliers, or an impact gun?

Wed Jul 05, 2017 2:11 pm

I typically use my Harbor Freight electric impact wrench, but that only goes to 250 ft lbs, and some - like yours - may be tighter. For those I use a 1/2 inch breaker bar and 36mm socket, with pipe over the end like you've been trying.

Some use a 3/4 inch drive breaker bar and socket plus pipe over the handle.

Those who have purchased the TorqueMeister tool typically love it, from what I've read (I've never used one: disclaimer - I'm in Arizona, so not rust here).

Wed Jul 05, 2017 2:23 pm

I purchased this tool some years ago. It works and it works well. Highly recommend it. Looks like it is out of stock right now from this supplier.

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC%2DC10%2D7036

Wed Jul 05, 2017 2:40 pm

The good thing about that "torque buddy" tool is it works against gland nut against the flywheel and doesn't require a flywheel lock or long angle iron bolted to the flywheel to keep the flywheel from rotating while you apply 250+ ft-lbs of torque. 250 ft-lbs is a LOT of torque.

The rear axle nuts are torqued to nearly the same amount 216+ ft-lbs and the last time I had to remove them with a breaker bar I broke two 1/2" breaker bars (a Craftsman and a Stanley... both were lifetime warranty). Both had chrome vanadium pivoting heads. The only one that with stood that level of torque was the Snap-On with a forged head. When the nut came off it let loose a screech that made me sure I had stripped the threads on the axle. Since then, I bought a 3/4" drive breaker with a forged 3/4 to 1/2 adapter. What really surprises me is the cheap 36mm 12pt 1/2"-drive sockets don't EXPLODE more often when used to remove or tighten these nuts.

Wed Jul 05, 2017 3:23 pm

ashman40 wrote: What really surprises me is the cheap 36mm 12pt 1/2"-drive sockets don't EXPLODE more often when used to remove or tighten these nuts.

Yeah, I've been using my original 36mm socket now for 4 decades, Duro Chrome, made in USA.

I also now have a 1/2-inch deep impact 36mm socket too.

My 1/2 -inch Sears Craftsman breaker bar has been replaced in that time 3 times under warranty, no hassles. Of course a pipe was used those three times and others !!! In the recent resurrection of my 1970, both the flywheel gland nut and one of the rear axle nuts required use of the breaker bar and pipe, too much for the electric impact wrench (which - to be fair - is like 20 years old).

Wed Jul 05, 2017 3:32 pm

Buy the torque buddy, you'll use it for other jobs as well. Over and over.

Wed Jul 05, 2017 3:56 pm

youngbug74 wrote: I'm attempting to put in a new main seal but I can't get the gland nut off that holds the flywheel.

Youngbug - just don't ask Tony Watson or Bastardo to help - they can't get anything out !!!

Wed Jul 05, 2017 4:04 pm

Here's what I used after I (stupidly) used red Loctite on my gland nut (the impact gun did nothing.)

The socket is welded to two 1"x1" square tubes. To hold the flywheel, I cut the springs out of an old pressure plate, and welded some heavy scrap bars to it. It worked perfectly.

This picture is about 10-years old - my kid is taller than me now. :)

Wed Jul 05, 2017 4:13 pm

any garage will buzz it off for you ..

Wed Jul 05, 2017 5:37 pm

I have a Torquemeister knock-off; but I only use that for torquing the nuts back on. The reason is because I lament the fact that I spent fifty dollars on some tools before buying the Torquemeister, so I use those tools to make me feel less like I wasted the money on them.

After breaking two 1/2 inch breaker bars (one of them the head busted off inside my 1/2 inch drive 36 mm socket), I went down to Sears and bought one of their beefy 3/4 inch sliding-head breaker bars. I also bought a 3/4 inch drive 1 and 7/16 inch socket (same as a 36mm). When I got home, I put a 4-foot pipe on them and that super-tight nut broke loose with little effort. This arrangement wasn't going to break!

However, I wasn't really sure if I got my 253 ft. lbs. since it was just a hard-pull guess, so to speak. So, a few months later when I had a clutch issue, I bought a Torquemeister knock-off for installing the flywheel and axel nuts. 9X28 equals 252 ft. lbs., so just a tad more and I was sure I had my 253 ft. lbs. With the Torquemeister, you're certain that you have your proper torque. Just set your 3/8 inch torque wrench to 28 ft. lbs, and you're done.

For holidays, I often ask for VW-related items. It was a birthday or Father's Day, whatever, and I asked for a 300 foot. lb. torque wrench. Harbor Freight sells them for a reasonable price. I'm not a big Harbor Freight fan, but their torque wrenches get very good reviews, so I put it on my whatdoyouwantforyourbirthday list. Anyway, I got it and use it for lug nuts and such, since my Craftsman clicker torque wrenches don't go past 60 ft. lbs. I have my OEM tool kit and the tools in it for lugs, but the bar hurts my sissy-ass hands; so I just use that for road-side emergencies ... that never happen.

Tim

Wed Jul 05, 2017 7:57 pm

Buy a torquemeister and a flywheel lock tool. If you use a breaker bar they bend. If you use an impact wrench you shake the internals of the engine. If you put a metal bar across the screw the metal screws bend and you have to replace them.

Wed Jul 05, 2017 7:58 pm

Also, get a flywheel install tool. Might as well get an endplay tool as well.

Wed Jul 05, 2017 8:21 pm

If you want to lock the flywheel to the engine just use a little piece of chain.
You can do a lot with a little piece of chain. Flywheel lock? put in low drawer to help hold down the toolbox, mainly.

Wed Jul 05, 2017 11:02 pm

Thanks for the replys everyone! I ended up getting my hands on an impact gun which took it right off

Thu Jul 06, 2017 12:59 am

youngbug74 wrote: Thanks for the replys everyone! I ended up getting my hands on an impact gun which took it right off

How will you install it?

Thu Jul 06, 2017 6:16 am

joey1320 wrote:

How will you install it?

Hint: "Impact gun" is the wrong answer.

Thu Jul 06, 2017 9:28 am

sjbartnik wrote: joey1320 wrote:

How will you install it?

Hint: "Impact gun" is the wrong answer.

Before I had a 'china torque' I used an impact wrench to install one. I didn't drive it very long like that but it seemed to work fine. What damage can be caused?

Thu Jul 06, 2017 9:46 am

I have a large torque wrench I use for my axle nuts that should work for putting the nut back on, I left the flywheel off overnight to make sure their were no leaks. Does the seal look like it's in there deep enough? I used the special seal tool to put it in

Thu Jul 06, 2017 9:47 am

Theirs definitely a small gap I'm just not sure if that's normal

Thu Jul 06, 2017 9:48 am

Seal looks good. About the same depth as the one I did on my engine over winter.