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OhHerrooo Fri Sep 01, 2017 12:31 pm

Hi all - me again...

My wanted ad was answered recently and I went to check out a supposedly original, pearl white, three-owner 67 a few cities away. After some back and forth the seller we reached a deal, and I'll likely be towing the car back down to Orange County after the holiday weekend. Here's a few pics...





















The car needs the rear 1/4 passenger pan section replaced but is otherwise pretty rust-free. I plan on getting the car structurally sound before moving on to new tires, carpet, and a few other things. The car fired up on the first turn of the key, and it is a one-key car. All electrical is in working order and the factory wiring harness is for the most part unmolested. It doesn't appear to have ever been seriously hit either.

Has anyone seen OG paint do this, though? This door (and the hatch) was one of the things that had given me pause to believing the car was 100% OG paint.



The condition of the front trunk did relieve me though, as the paint sticker and frunk liner were in really good shape given their age. Based on the current owner's telling of the car's history, the car sat for a large part of it's life, so I'm hopeful this car is original as it seems to be.

Erik G Fri Sep 01, 2017 1:05 pm

nice!

Clatter Fri Sep 01, 2017 2:28 pm

Awww, YEAH!

1967!

Best year of all type 3s... 8)

Love that OG seat upholstery; Nine seams in all of their resplendent glory.

Congrats!

OhHerrooo Fri Sep 01, 2017 2:36 pm

Clatter wrote: Awww, YEAH!

1967!

Best year of all type 3s... 8)

Love that OG seat upholstery; Nine seams in all of their resplendent glory.

Congrats!

The interior (minus the carpet) is in such great shape!

Bobnotch Sat Sep 02, 2017 6:59 am

OhHerrooo wrote: Hi all - me again...
Has anyone seen OG paint do this, though? This door (and the hatch) was one of the things that had given me pause to believing the car was 100% OG paint.



I haven't seen OE paint do that, but I have 20 to 30 year old Lacquer paint (over a repair) do that. It might be because the lacquer dried up and shrunk, or it might be the filler underneath has shrunk.

OhHerrooo Sat Sep 02, 2017 5:26 pm

Bobnotch wrote: OhHerrooo wrote: Hi all - me again...
Has anyone seen OG paint do this, though? This door (and the hatch) was one of the things that had given me pause to believing the car was 100% OG paint.

I haven't seen OE paint do that, but I have 20 to 30 year old Lacquer paint (over a repair) do that. It might be because the lacquer dried up and shrunk, or it might be the filler underneath has shrunk.

Thanks for that. I'm trying to find an OG passenger door and hatch to replace what the car currently has.

ataraxia Sat Sep 02, 2017 6:00 pm

OhHerrooo wrote:
Thanks for that. I'm trying to find an OG passenger door and hatch to replace what the car currently has.

Your ad is asking for a 66 or 67 door. You should know that they are different doors. The 67 door is, essentially, a one year only door. It uses a one year only door lock handle as well.

OhHerrooo Sat Sep 02, 2017 6:35 pm

ataraxia wrote: OhHerrooo wrote:
Thanks for that. I'm trying to find an OG passenger door and hatch to replace what the car currently has.

Your ad is asking for a 66 or 67 door. You should know that they are different doors. The 67 door is, essentially, a one year only door. It uses a one year only door lock handle as well.

Good to know, I'll change it now.

LandalftheGray Sat Sep 02, 2017 8:39 pm

Damn, that thing is hot! So much potential too.. I'm stoked for you, my dude!!🤙🏼

volksaddict Sun Sep 03, 2017 5:13 am

whatever made that big dent in the trim cracked the filler in the repair on the bottom half of the door. That panel has been repaired.

MonT3 Sun Sep 03, 2017 9:16 am

Very nice score there. You should have that on the road in no time!

OhHerrooo Sun Sep 03, 2017 10:10 am

volksaddict wrote: whatever made that big dent in the trim cracked the filler in the repair on the bottom half of the door. That panel has been repaired.

Yeah it looks like it was repaired below the trim line. The top of the door looks fine.

MonT3 wrote: Very nice score there. You should have that on the road in no time!

Thanks! That's the plan!

OhHerrooo Sun Sep 10, 2017 7:43 pm

Got the car home today :D

The car shudders a bit when I'm am releasing the clutch after getting the car into gear. Not a shudder like it doesn't have enough gas, it feels a bit more violent.

Any ideas as to what it could be?

Donnie strickland Sun Sep 10, 2017 7:54 pm

Broken spring on the pressure plate, and/or warped flywheel...

OhHerrooo Sun Sep 10, 2017 8:17 pm

Donnie strickland wrote: Broken spring on the pressure plate, and/or warped flywheel...

Doesn't seem like too tough of a fix either way. I'll most likely have the tranny rebuilt sometime in the near future.

Clatter Mon Sep 11, 2017 6:37 am

The Bowden tube could be wrong.

An easy fix compared to pulling the motor.

Quite common, and cheap, too.
You might even just stack some washers..

Donnie strickland Mon Sep 11, 2017 8:59 am

Clatter wrote: The Bowden tube could be wrong.

An easy fix compared to pulling the motor.

Quite common, and cheap, too.
You might even just stack some washers..

That's right, and it's certainly worth checking.

OhHerrooo Mon Sep 11, 2017 10:15 am

Donnie strickland wrote: Clatter wrote: The Bowden tube could be wrong.

An easy fix compared to pulling the motor.

Quite common, and cheap, too.
You might even just stack some washers..

That's right, and it's certainly worth checking.

So just make sure it has the proper bend? I do need to adjust the clutch cable as well, the engagement is pretty far down.

KTPhil Mon Sep 11, 2017 10:27 am

Well, to adjust the Bowden tube bend you have to release the wingnut on the cable anyway, so you'll be adjusting the pedal after the tube. Keep tension on that cable as you remove the wingnut and Bowden tube or you may have to remove the pedal cluster to re-hook it on the clutch pedal.

Has anyone figured out of there is enough room to reach an arm into the tunnel after removing the cover, should it come unhooked? I've never done it that way.

OhHerrooo Mon Sep 11, 2017 11:09 am

KTPhil wrote: Well, to adjust the Bowden tube bend you have to release the wingnut on the cable anyway, so you'll be adjusting the pedal after the tube. Keep tension on that cable as you remove the wingnut and Bowden tube or you may have to remove the pedal cluster to re-hook it on the clutch pedal.

Has anyone figured out of there is enough room to reach an arm into the tunnel after removing the cover, should it come unhooked? I've never done it that way.

I see. Just watched a video on bowden tube/cluch cable adjustment. I'll try this before going any further - hopefully that's the solution. The clutch pedal currently has a ton of freeplay.



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