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Wed Oct 25, 2017 10:21 am

I'm struggling with removing the door hinge bolts on my '63 ragtop Type 1
The top screws loosened eventually with an Impact Screwdriver.
The bottom ones just wont budge.
I tried the Impact screwdriver alone
and with PB blaster sprayed on left to soak
I also tried heating the bolts and using the Impact Screwdriver.

the results are screwheads that are beginning to strip out and the A-pillar bending from hammering the Impact Screwdriver.

Any other advice before I end up trying to drill them out?

(I'll post pics after work tonight if need be)

Wed Oct 25, 2017 10:56 am

The impact driver (with the correct, LARGE Phillips bit) almost always works for me.
On just a couple occasions . . . I have had to drill completely through the screw with an 1/8" bit . . . then, Oxy/Acc torch w/000 tip flame burning only through the drilled hole till red . . . followed with gentle taps with the impact screwdriver.
The hole will allow the heat to get where it does its job . . . and allows the screw to collapse.
As soon as you get even the slightest turn on the screw, stop until it cools a bit and give it the penetrating oil again.
As odd as it seems, after the screw/bolt budges even the slightest amount, give it some penetrating oil and tighten the screw before trying to turn it out.
Repeat the "penetrating oil/tighten/loosen" process as many times as necessary . . . the screw will turn out a little more each time!
Takes less time than repairing stripped/broken bolts!

Wed Oct 25, 2017 12:04 pm

^^^^That is almost my exact same process. Must have the big phillips bit. 2 lb sledge hammer. Good angle. Get it red hot. Quench, do it again. Penetrating oil the day before, several times. Eventually they always give up. :)
Also if the screw is slightly damaged from screwdriver slipping, I have used a file and can get them decent looking again.

Wed Oct 25, 2017 1:41 pm

I use a #4 Phillips bit with my 1/2" breaker bar, a short extension & a lot of pressure so it doesn't slip while getting them to unscrew.

Wed Oct 25, 2017 5:20 pm

I have drilled them out and also welded a nut to them. Acetone and ATF fluid work good together - 50/50 and shake it alot

Thu Oct 26, 2017 4:03 am

I believe number 4 Philips is the correct size. I had a hard time finding that size locally.

Thu Oct 26, 2017 9:11 am

CiderGuy wrote: I believe number 4 Philips is the correct size. I had a hard time finding that size locally.

Having one of those would be a big plus.

Fri Oct 27, 2017 6:57 pm

Thank you for all of the replies and help guys
I suppose I should have mentioned that I have been a mechanic for 25 years now...
So yes, I was using the correct size Phillips bit (#4)
I got 9 of them to eventually come out on their own with a combination of impact screwdriver, heat, penetrant, and a breaker bar .
However, 2 wouldn't budge and were drilled out , and one screw head actually snapped off of the screw body
so not too terrible, just persistence and doing a little each day after work this week.
here we are now

Sat Nov 04, 2017 2:17 am

I guess I'm a little late to the party...
But for future reference, this tool (or one like it - it's the first I found in a search) is fantastic for removing stuck screws. Requires an air chisel.
https://www.amazon.com/Thexton-THE482-Fastener-Removal-Tool/dp/B000GTJHO0

Sat Nov 04, 2017 6:16 am

I have a BluePoint version of that tool. It got out heavily rusted trim screws that where holding on a plastic threshold molding. I could not have saved the molding otherwise. A must have tool!

Sat Nov 04, 2017 6:51 am

CiderGuy wrote: I believe number 4 Philips is the correct size. I had a hard time finding that size locally.

I bought my #4 bit at SEARS.

Sat Nov 04, 2017 10:05 am

Mike Fisher wrote: CiderGuy wrote: I believe number 4 Philips is the correct size. I had a hard time finding that size locally.

I bought my #4 bit at SEARS.

Got mine at Ace hardware who now carries Craftsman tools.

Sat Nov 04, 2017 10:27 am

My Impact Screwdriver is an old Craftsman that I bought back in 92 when I first started turning wrenches
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-impact-driver/p-00947641000P
I started at Sears when I got out of the Army and they gave us 60% off of mechanic's tools as an employee discount. A great number of my tools are still the same Craftsman tools I bought in the early 90's, before they went downhill a little.
I also have a long 3/8 drive Snap-On #4 socket (FP42E) that works without an extension on the breaker bar.
https://store.snapon.com/Phillips-174-Long-Chrome-...31434.aspx

a combination of those tools, the torch, and a cordless drill eventually got my doors off.

Here's the lovely rainbow donor door temporarily hung.

Sat Nov 04, 2017 4:16 pm

With a pneumatic one, you can just let the hammer slightly tap at the screw while putting slight turning force on it. If the metal that holds the screw is weak it will not push the metal in. Even with a damaged screw head ,it's never let me down.

I think it works like installing bushings or any interference fit part in a bore with a air hammer. It vibrates the screw back, forth,sideways and it wiggles out. With a manual version ,its always putting force on the screw which causes friction against what it's held into.

Tue Jan 16, 2018 7:43 am

Used 1/2" twin hammer impact gun on low setting (#1) where impact screwdriver didn't work. Got all of them out, no problem.