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Goach2 Sat Mar 17, 2018 12:25 pm

So... Is this a total rebuild?

Goach2 Sun Mar 18, 2018 7:28 am

<crickets> <crickets>

busdaddy Sun Mar 18, 2018 9:42 am

I'm not sure it qualifies for a "total" rebuild, but the top end shows high time and rough use. The bottom end is strong and may not need much, but from what I see so far I'd splt the case and do some measuring and inspecting iin there to assess.

Aren't you glad you opted to look now?, that valve wouldn't have lasted "a summer or two for local trips" .

Goach2 Sun Mar 18, 2018 6:09 pm

Well, I can't say that I'm 'happy' to find these issues, but it does feel better knowing that it's not going to implode far from home with my young family.

Now to decide which arm/leg to give for a rebuild...

tommu Tue Mar 20, 2018 3:22 pm

Maybe I missed it, but how do the Cam and lifters look? What's the endplay like? It really would be a shame not to split the case - but once you do that it is going to take your time and money to do it right. Good luck!

Clatter Tue Mar 20, 2018 10:45 pm

Oo.. Missed this one..

Didja look at the bus motor build in my sig?


I'd be gearing up for to take it all apart and see what's up.

Sometimes you can get lucky,
And not have to spend too much coin.
The hard part is done, the rest isn't heavy lifting, just for your wallet.

Heads are expensive; most expensive part, actually.
You might send those to Adrian at Headflow Masters in LA if you are on a budget.
If he will do them; be ready for him to not do them if they are too far gone.
At that point, you can get a set of new AMC heads from any of the regular vendors.
I might be getting a set of 1.7 heads if you go that way,
They have bigger valves, but you will need them cut for your bigger cylinders.

The best is to get new HAM heads from the type4store.com
But be ready to pay...

Like said by these guys above, get it apart, and check the end play.


At this point, you might still be able to save this and that, so disassemble carefully.
You can usually free a cylinder stuck in a head by -very- -carefully- tapping sideways on it with a rubber mallet this way n that.
The John Muir 'Idiot Manual' has some good tips if yo are new to the rebuild game, and writes it all out really well step-by-step that you won't get in the Bentley.

I'd be finding your local automotive machine shop,
And be getting things cleaned up.
Get it all apart,
And get it all clean.

Any V8 shop can also measure cylinders, and maybe measure bearings and/or rebuild rods.


Then take some pics of the cleaned parts, so we can offer a few tidbits.

And save your money...

Sorry that i was right again,
But,
What you are seeing here is perfectly normal.
Par for the course...

You will be WAY better off in the long run if you go clear through it.
There are some great builds on here.
KentPS and riverside66 are a couple that come to mind recently.

If it was easy, all kinds of people would be doing it.

Goach2 Wed Mar 21, 2018 5:45 am

Thanks for the suggestions, at this point I'm getting out of my comfort zone (as far as splitting the case goes). I will be sending this out to be rebuilt by someone who knows what needs to be done. I will update with pics as they come.

Goach2 Tue Mar 27, 2018 5:56 am

Here's an update from the rebuilder;

Cylinder #2 was fried, worst he's seen. The crank is good, looks like cam and lifters are trash. Crank and case out for machining. Here's the proof..









busdaddy Tue Mar 27, 2018 7:51 am

Nothing shocking there, looks like the typical used and abused bus motor, good thing you caught it now before it grenaded and there's still some useable parts :wink:

Goach2 Thu Apr 12, 2018 7:24 am

UPDATE: Heads are warped.

Randy in Maine Thu Apr 12, 2018 7:40 am

Just a suggestion....

Usually the 2.0L heads are easily cracked also.

My suggestion would be to just plan on replacing the heads, and the camshaft/lifters combo (you want the camshaft and lifters to have the same Rockwell hardness so you buy them from the same supplier).

If it were me, I would just plan on buying heads with the "improved valve guides" (the improved valve guides contain more zinc in the alloy to actually retain heat longer when you come down the hill so they won't drop into the cylinder).

williamM Thu Apr 12, 2018 7:41 am

Clatter wrote: Oo.. Missed this one..

I might be getting a set of 1.7 heads if you go that way,
They have bigger valves, but you will need them cut for your bigger cylinders.

The best is to get new HAM heads from the type4store.com
But be ready to pay...

There are some great builds on here.
KentPS and riverside66 are a couple that come to mind recently.

If it was easy, all kinds of people would be doing it.


Think you will find the 1700 heads have small valves and it's the 1800 that have the biggest valves, however that comes with a different volume so you need flat tops with that- My 2lts with flat tops and 1800 heads just finished a 1000 mile trip (I know not much) with just the Chinese ele foot adjuster getting loose - reports were the thing had lots of power and decent torque- which could have been improved with the small valve 1700 heads.

Goach2 Tue May 22, 2018 10:38 am

Quick update... Parts are back from machining. Reassembly is underway!



In the meantime, brakes continue... slowly...


Wildthings Tue May 22, 2018 10:53 am

Goach2 wrote: Quick update... Parts are back from machining. Reassembly is underway!



In the meantime, brakes continue... slowly...



Did you replace the three big galley plugs behind the flywheel. They either must be replaced or at least carefully peened in place.

Goach2 Tue May 22, 2018 11:37 am

I will ask the builder, thanks.

Goach2 Tue May 22, 2018 11:53 am

Peened is the word.

Randy in Maine Tue May 22, 2018 2:12 pm

Might want to go here and read up some on installing the galley plugs.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=671543&highlight=galley+plugs

I used the steel plugs myself....

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Type-4-Engine-Oil-Galley-Gallery-Plug-Kit-p/galleyplugst4.htm



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