TheSamba.com :: View topic

Wed Dec 13, 2017 4:25 am

Wed Dec 13, 2017 4:43 am

If I’m not mistaken your #4 rod is upside down. Hopefully this was corrected before assembly.

Wed Dec 13, 2017 5:04 am

Yes..fixed b4 case closed..thank u..

Wed Dec 13, 2017 5:13 am

Out of curiosity, what all did you do? What size was it originally? Did you rebuild it to factory or increase displacement? Did you rebuild the heads or just clean them up and put them back on? In the circled area it appears you are missing the plate that belongs there. Helps cool the heads. I also don't believe you're supposed to use sealant between the jugs and the case. What condition was the case? Were the align bore or thrust out of spec?

Also, looks like the crankshaft pulley may be smaller and result in the fan turning slower and increase temperatures. Did you rebuild any of the components or just buy new? Looks like you put an aftermarker SVDA on, what are your plans for carburation? Some of the OG carbs don't play well with the SVDA as the vac signal is incorrect. You may be better off cleaning up the OG distributor and carb and using those. Check the fuel pressure on that fuel pump. A lot of the aftermarket ones put out too much pressure. Again, you may have been better off cleaning up and using the old one instead of spending money on new. More information on what all you did would be great if you're looking for input. If you're not we can all bugger off.

Wed Dec 13, 2017 5:23 am

Most of the women mechanics I’ve worked with over the years have done better than the men. They take time double check and are detail oriented, especially in metal working or that which requires a good eye.

Wed Dec 13, 2017 5:30 am

Zundfolge1432 wrote: Most of the women mechanics I’ve worked with over the years have done better than the men. They take time double check and are detail oriented, especially in metal working or that which requires a good eye.

I don't doubt it at all. I'm impressed that they tackled this as I'm still looking at my stack of parts trying to get the courage to jump in.

Wed Dec 13, 2017 5:31 am

Thanks guys 4 comments.
We bought all new parts.same size case.1600 standard..happy 4 comments.

Wed Dec 13, 2017 5:34 am

The extra fin on heads was in the way of thermostat rod..we filled it for 5 hours careful not to bend rod..heads new ..bad aftermarket..

Wed Dec 13, 2017 5:39 am

Joannekay wrote: Thanks guys 4 comments.
We bought all new parts.same size case.1600 standard..happy 4 comments.

Seriously, you may have been better off rebuilding components and saving the cash. May be worth your time to muddle through the rest of my comments and check some things.

Here's a good article and diagram of all the tin that you should have:

http://www.vw-resource.com/engine_tin.html

Wed Dec 13, 2017 5:50 am

Wed Dec 13, 2017 5:54 am

Sharp I’m not sure what u are saying..we decided 2 purchase all new & build..hard 2 check if crankshaft is balanced..case had small cracks..heads had done there time..thank u 4 comments but I don’t find them helpful .

Wed Dec 13, 2017 6:02 am

bugger off it is then. Good luck.

Wed Dec 13, 2017 6:40 am

Nice work going on in your shop. Please keep an eye on that new style thermostat, I've heard and read they can be sketchy at best. Keep the pic's coming

Wed Dec 13, 2017 7:00 am

lovethatconvertible wrote: Nice work going on in your shop. Please keep an eye on that new style thermostat, I've heard and read they can be sketchy at best. Keep the pic's coming

new style wax thermostats are known to fail with flaps closed. original types fail with flapsnopen. which do you want??? the new types only have to fail once to ruin the motor. source a good used orignal type.

see link below on safety wires and engine fires.

good luck, Bug On!

Wed Dec 13, 2017 7:03 am

As mentioned Looks nice and clean assembly...Do source out a stock thermostat.

Wed Dec 13, 2017 7:10 am

Joannekay wrote: Sharp I’m not sure what u are saying..we decided 2 purchase all new & build..hard 2 check if crankshaft is balanced..case had small cracks..heads had done there time..thank u 4 comments but I don’t find them helpful .

I think he was trying to say it’s standard operating procedure to measure the parts for tolerance and wear, that and a little non destructive testing will tell you if parts are serviceable.

This may be hard to do if you don’t have the measuring equipment and experience and know what to look for. This is where a machine shop comes in.
The crank may have just needed polishing and they don’t go out of balance with use. They are either balanced or within spec from the seller, or maybe not it’s up to you to check. In fact it only gets slight mention but it’s a great idea to take all the rotating parts in for balance prior to assembly, you can exceed factory specs for a really smooth long lasting engine with a little effort here.

Looking at your pic make real sure that tarboard is secure, it would be a real shame to suck that into the fan and cook a new engine. Have fun and congrats on tackling that project. Few here know the feeling of DIY. :D

Wed Dec 13, 2017 7:29 am

I'm pretty impressed.

Looks like you stayed with non-doghouse, and used the Brosol Solex 30/31 PICT carb. I use that carb on my 1600cc engine, and have been OK with it.

Wed Dec 13, 2017 8:24 am

Cusser wrote: I'm pretty impressed.

Looks like you stayed with non-doghouse, and used the Brosol Solex 30/31 PICT carb. I use that carb on my 1600cc engine, and have been OK with it.

But what distributor are you running it with?

Wed Dec 13, 2017 8:30 am

Looks like you're doing a great job! Keep the pics coming

Wed Dec 13, 2017 11:38 am

Good stuff. I'm always trying to get my wife involved.