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Wed Dec 13, 2017 7:36 am

In may of 2016 my generator light came on in my 73 beetle and after some testing I discovered that the generator was bad. So I replaced the generator and regulator with parts for autozone. The generator light went away and all is well. Since then I have replaced the generator and regulator a second time and last night on my way home the generator light came back on again. At this point I have replaced everything in the charging system multiple times except for wiring. I am exactly sure but I feel like I have to have a short or something killing my regulator or generator.

Wed Dec 13, 2017 7:53 am

A short would burn wires or burn out fuses, you didn't mention that.

You need to determine whether the generator is bad, or if the regulator is bad. I don't want to bash Autozone or other chain store parts, but if their parts test bad, you can likely get a refund instead of just a swap on the lifetime warranty.

Last year I bought a Bosch solid-state regulator for my 1970, has worked fine.

So you need to learn to check out whether generator or regulator or both are bad, see Speedy Jim's page: and the other
http://speedyjim.net/htm/gen.htm

http://www.vw-resource.com/generator.html

I run an O'Reilly alternator in my 1998 Frontier, so not like I avoid those places myself; it's been fine for over 5 years now, but realize that alternator R&R on the Frontier is a lot less work than generator replacement on an old VW.

Wed Dec 13, 2017 9:47 am

Agree with Cusser's post.

I have never had any luck buying the FLAPS "rebuilt" paper weights. They have disappointed me more than several times! Gave that up over 30 years ago.

Instead of buying from a local FLAPS or elsewhere, not knowing the quality of what you may be getting. You may want to try a local generator rebuilder. I have one, still in business for the last 60 years, that I used when I wrenched. I bought a couple of old generators off of the Samba's classified and had that shop rebuild them. They sit on my shelf awaiting their return to service. They charged me $60.00 to rebuild, with new bearings and brushes.

When I wrenched, we used this same shop to rebuild generators because they were good and because replacing bad generators under warranty pays nothing! I do not know about you, but I do not like removing my fan shroud and replacing the generator. I try and limit the number of times I need to do this task. Buy a quality rebuild and you will be happy.

Wed Dec 13, 2017 10:14 am

VW_Jimbo wrote: When I wrenched, we used this same shop to rebuild generators because they were good and because replacing bad generators under warranty pays nothing!
If a shop has to replace or rebuild a bad generator, they lose money.

VW_Jimbo wrote: I do not know about you, but I do not like removing my fan shroud and replacing the generator. I try and limit the number of times I need to do this task. Buy a quality rebuild and you will be happy.
I absolutely agree with this, 100%. I haven't had to replace the generator in either of my VWs since Oct. 1999 (in my 1971) and March 1980 (in my 1970); both of those were Bosch generators that were actually genuinely rebuilt-by-Bosch. However, I don't know if genuine "rebuilt-by-Bosch" generators are still available, many are Bosch generators that have been rebuilt in USA or overseas. To paraphrase Yogi Berra: "there are rebuilts and there are rebuilts".

Brand new Bosch generators are apparently available, $150 - $180.

If I had to replace a generator on one of mine, if genuine "rebuilt-by-Bosch" are not available any more, I'd likely go for a brand-new Bosch unit. Like VW Jimbo: I do not like removing my fan shroud and replacing the generator. I try and limit the number of times I need to do this task.

No - I'm not going to do computer-searching or calling to see if genuine "rebuilt-by-Bosch" generators are still available. Since a starter is significantly easier R&R, I likely would get a rebuilt one, possibly from a chain store with a lifetime warranty; I have a rebuilt CarQuest starter in my '98 Frontier (over a decade) and a new Autozone starter in Mrs. Cusser's Yukon (about 5 years).

Wed Dec 13, 2017 10:19 am

with the correctwrench and some contortions, the fan can be removed from the generator while in the fan shroud, not an easy task but doable. this can save a lot of effort with the fan shroud removal and install.

the early cars with the narrow fan did not have such an issue

anothrr options is to double nut the oil filler tower, and remove the studs from the engine block that secure the tower, then the tower can be slid off, havent tried that mehod yet, but seems logical.

Keep Bugging!

Wed Dec 13, 2017 10:30 am

Gravell wrote: In may of 2016 my generator light came on in my 73 beetle and after some testing I discovered that the generator was bad. So I replaced the generator and regulator with parts for autozone. The generator light went away and all is well. Since then I have replaced the generator and regulator a second time and last night on my way home the generator light came back on again. At this point I have replaced everything in the charging system multiple times except for wiring. I am exactly sure but I feel like I have to have a short or something killing my regulator or generator.

I am a little unclear on this post- what was the reason you replaced the generator and regulator the SECOND time? Was it because your generator light was coming back on, and now it's coming back on again?
If so, I would suggest taking a voltage reading off your battery both connected and disconnected, and see if there is a significant difference between the two. That is how I discovered there was a consistent drain on my battery (turned out to be my aftermarket stereo) that eventually ruined my generator which was overtaxed trying to keep up the 12 volt charge on the battery. Even after disconnecting the stereo and trickle charging the battery, it went dead again the next day, as the generator could no longer charge it properly. Finally swapped generators which fixed the problem.

Wed Dec 13, 2017 11:58 am

First of all. Have your battery checked. Nothing kills charging systems faster than a battery going bad. If the xar sits for long periods of time the plates may be sulfiding and it is very hard to charge a battery in that state. Then check all you cables and wires in the charging system and make sure the terminals and wire are in good condition and clean. Make sure the regulator is grounded to shiney clean metal and held down tight to it not bouncing around loose on shitty sheet metal screws which have been overtightened a hundred times.

brad

Wed Dec 13, 2017 10:36 pm

Cusser wrote: A short would burn wires or burn out fuses, you didn't mention that.

You need to determine whether the generator is bad, or if the regulator is bad. I don't want to bash Autozone or other chain store parts, but if their parts test bad, you can likely get a refund instead of just a swap on the lifetime warranty.

Last year I bought a Bosch solid-state regulator for my 1970, has worked fine.

So you need to learn to check out whether generator or regulator or both are bad, see Speedy Jim's page: and the other
http://speedyjim.net/htm/gen.htm

http://www.vw-resource.com/generator.html

I run an O'Reilly alternator in my 1998 Frontier, so not like I avoid those places myself; it's been fine for over 5 years now, but realize that alternator R&R on the Frontier is a lot less work than generator replacement on an old VW.

Hey Cusser,

I went out this morning to test the generator to make sure I was getting 35v at 3000 rpms. While conducting the test the auto choke wire grounded to the generator. The wire fried and smoked so I ran and turned off the ignition. I made a replacement cable for the auto choke and wanted to make sure the auto choke still worked/see what else was fried. But I could not get the ignition key to turn into the on position and the steering wheel was locked. I fiddled with it for awhle and could not get the key to turn. The saga continues!

Thu Dec 14, 2017 7:01 am

Gravell wrote:

Hey Cusser,

I went out this morning to test the generator to make sure I was getting 35v at 3000 rpms. While conducting the test the auto choke wire grounded to the generator. The wire fried and smoked so I ran and turned off the ignition. I made a replacement cable for the auto choke and wanted to make sure the auto choke still worked/see what else was fried. But I could not get the ignition key to turn into the on position and the steering wheel was locked. I fiddled with it for awhle and could not get the key to turn. The saga continues!

Your steering wheel does have a locking mechanism that can usually be released by jiggling the steering wheel as you are turning the key. It may take a bit of finessing.
I remember the first time I found that out- I was probably about 6 years old, and had ridden to the store with my dad- he told me "don't touch anything!" so sure enough as soon as he was in the store I hopped in the driver's side and turned the steering wheel back and forth like i was driving, until it locked. I thought I had broken the car.

Thu Dec 14, 2017 8:44 am

sb001 wrote: Your steering wheel does have a locking mechanism that can usually be released by jiggling the steering wheel as you are turning the key. It may take a bit of finessing.

Yes, that's in the owner's manual. That's unrelated to the other stuff you've done, that's a theft deterrent.

Gravell wrote: While conducting the test the auto choke wire grounded to the generator. The wire fried and smoked so I ran and turned off the ignition. I made a replacement cable for the auto choke and wanted to make sure the auto choke still worked/see what else was fried.

If the wire from the front of the VW to coil positive terminal #15 (where the auto-choke wire attaches to the coil) is OK and has 12 volts positive when the key is switched to "run" position, then likely nothing besides that short wire fried.

Thu Dec 14, 2017 8:55 am

[quote="Cusser"] sb001 wrote: Your steering wheel does have a locking mechanism that can usually be released by jiggling the steering wheel as you are turning the key. It may take a bit of finessing.

Yes, that's in the owner's manual. That's unrelated to the other stuff you've done, that's a theft deterrent.

Hey Cusser,

I have wiggled the steering wheel trying to get the key to turn and I am having no luck. is it possible to remove the ignition with the steering wheel lock engaged? Or do you have any suggested on how to disengage the wheel lock?

Thu Dec 14, 2017 9:25 am

[quote="Gravell"] Cusser wrote: sb001 wrote: Your steering wheel does have a locking mechanism that can usually be released by jiggling the steering wheel as you are turning the key. It may take a bit of finessing.

Yes, that's in the owner's manual. That's unrelated to the other stuff you've done, that's a theft deterrent.

Hey Cusser,

I have wiggled the steering wheel trying to get the key to turn and I am having no luck. is it possible to remove the ignition with the steering wheel lock engaged? Or do you have any suggested on how to disengage the wheel lock?

Be patient. Turn the steering wheel to the extreme, wiggle/hold it at end of travel, push the key inwards a bit while trying to turn the key, do not force.

It can be a little tricky at times on my 1971 too.

Thu Dec 14, 2017 4:02 pm

When you install the generator how tight are you putting the fan belt on? Too tight and you can blow the bearings.

Are you checking the brushes for wear? Brushes can go bad and be replaced for less than $10.

Thu Dec 21, 2017 12:53 pm

UPDATE:

The first generator and regulator were replaced back in 2016 because the generator was no longer generating voltage. In September of 2017 the second generator and regulator were replaced because the woodruff key broke on the generator pulley. It damaged the generator and the pulley was spinning but not rotating the generator. It was my understanding to replace the regulator anytime the generator is swapped out, but in both cases the generator was the issue. The battery has been tested and is less than a year old.

Most recently I tested the generator and was getting 35 volts at 3k rpms. The battery was charged at 12.5 volts and there was no change in voltage when the car was on and running. When I went to look at the voltage regulator the front mounting sheet metal screw had popped out and there was an inch gap between the regulator and body. So it looks like between vibration and lack of ground the regulator went out. I swapped out the regulator as well as the sheet metal screw and the new regulator is snug up against the body now. When the motor is off the battery is at 12.5 volts and when it is on I am now getting 14.5 volts across terminals.

Also it turns out my igniton switch broke in the middle of testing my charging system. Swapped it out for a new one and I can turn the key no problem.

Thu Dec 21, 2017 1:07 pm

A functional voltage regulator does NOT need to be changed out along with the generator.

Stock points style regulators should have a dedicated ground wire (added in model year 1969) connecting the generator body to the frame of the regulator. Replacement (and BETTER) solid-state regulators don't have a spot for this dedicated ground wire to attach to, but it can be placed at one of the base mounting screws.

Sun Dec 31, 2017 2:07 pm

UPDATE

on my way home from work today the generator light came back on yet again. When I got home I tested the generator and am getting 35 volts at 3k rpms. Why does the voltage regulator keep going out?!! Should I switch from a mechanical to solid state?

Sun Dec 31, 2017 2:17 pm

I was an early adopter of the Bosch solid state regulator, found it to be much better than the original style... rock solid regulation and I get longer life on the generator brushes. (the only drawback is that the top "cover" is hooked up to D+, the raw output of the generator when the car is running, so you have to be a little careful to keep things that might short it out from touching it)

Sun Dec 31, 2017 3:00 pm

Gravell wrote: When I got home I tested the generator and am getting 35 volts at 3k rpms. Why does the voltage regulator keep going out?!! Should I switch from a mechanical to solid state?

I installed the solid state Bosch regulator on my own 1970 a year ago, like it. I suggest that for you.

Sun Dec 31, 2017 3:16 pm

Gravell wrote: UPDATE

on my way home from work today the generator light came back on yet again. When I got home I tested the generator and am getting 35 volts at 3k rpms. Why does the voltage regulator keep going out?!! Should I switch from a mechanical to solid state?
Where are you getting 35 volts and how are you testing this?
What is your voltage reading across the battery terminals with everything connected, with the ignition OFF and again with the engine running at 1500rpm?
When is the generator light coming on, specifically under what conditions and engine speeds?

Sun Dec 31, 2017 4:21 pm

I'm pretty sure he means the unregulated output test - unhook the regulator wires, put a voltmeter on D+, start the engine, ground DF and rev the engine up.