TheSamba.com :: View topic

Sun Jan 28, 2018 7:50 pm

I guess I don't remember, are you going for a class 11 ghia type build? If so it's gonna be awesome!

Mon Jan 29, 2018 8:40 am

Onceler wrote: I guess I don't remember, are you going for a class 11 ghia type build? If so it's gonna be awesome!
Pretty much, & thanks!

Here's the difference in the brake shoes.

After cleaning up the backing plate & treating it with some Ospho & Krylon, I ran a tap & die on the adjusters

And then reassembled with antiseize.

Also making sure that the adjuster studs are correctly oriented, if the ramps face down, this will lead to binding/locking up of the brakes.

Then installed the brake shoes & hardware. (I still need to loosen the parking brake cable to ensure proper adjustment of brake shoes & parking brake.)

Unfortunately, I had to install the old wheel cylinders until the correct new ones make an appearance.

Tue Jan 30, 2018 4:48 pm

I didn't achieve much today, I got a couple of tires mounted.

Since one of the wheels still had the center painted black, I made a half-assed stencil to paint the others by cutting the bottom out of a Gojo hand wipes bucket.

Sat Feb 03, 2018 11:15 am

After a bit more thorough examination, I decided that the floors probably wouldn't pass a tech inspection, & if it did, I don't think that they would hold up to too much abuse.

So last night I backed all of the fasteners out a few threads, hit them with some Kano Kroil & tucked them back in for the night.

This morning, I spent an hour separating the body from the pan & assessing the next plan of attack.

As you can see, there wasn't much holding the floors to the pan.

So I removed the pedal assembly & zipped around the perimeter with a sawzall.

Sat Feb 03, 2018 5:50 pm

yeah you'll be way farther ahead with the new pans.

Sat Feb 03, 2018 7:51 pm

After a visit to the last local VW event, I have bestowed upon myself the crappiest set of floor pans known to exist in the world of aftermarket parts. These things look like sheet metal castoffs from the Hyundai plant fell onto the dies & then were trampled into shape by yaks on their way to the slaughterhouse.

For that reason, I decided to retain the original bolt flange perimeter of the original floor pans.

The next step was to remove what was left of the original pans from the tunnel flange, I did this by grabbing it with a good set of pliers & leveraging it off in ribbons. These really need to be removed to be able to weld the new pans properly.

Once that was removed, I sharpened my favorite chisel & cut the remaining material off the flange.

I then used a stiff wire brush to clean off the loose rust, seam sealer.

Then I slathered the flange with muriatic acid to clean it.

Then wiped it clean & flushed it several times with fresh water & then treated it with some Ospho.

Mon Feb 05, 2018 9:27 am

Unfortunately it looks like thats the new quality standard for Ghia floor pans.

The set I just received look just as bad, except the relief cuts aren't even welded up. :shock:

Mon Feb 05, 2018 1:02 pm

Concur, the aftermarket pans with the open relief cuts appear pretty crappy. Once they are welded in you will be surprised on how much they firm up. Once bolted to the car they become plenty solid, they wont be an issue. Carry on.

Mon Feb 05, 2018 1:19 pm

Today I started to fit the new pan, it was about an inch too wide & 1/2" too long. The problem is that the contour to the tunnel is way off so I made a template out of an old box.

Then transferred that to the new pan. I then cut the outer edge off the bolt flange.

Once that was removed, I only had to trim a blades width off the inner edge in a few places to get the new one to drop into place.

Now I just have to tack the new pan to the old outer bolt flange.

And spot the inner to the tunnel.

Tue Feb 06, 2018 10:49 am

I spent several hours feeding & beading...

And drilling & filling...

After each plug weld along the tunnel seam, I made sure to hammer the pan down to the flange to ensure a tight fit along the flange & to make it easier to get the next weld as tight as possible.

Tue Feb 06, 2018 11:26 am

Nice work Chris!!! Looks like a job well done.

Tue Feb 06, 2018 3:00 pm

Tue Feb 06, 2018 5:42 pm

Bravo ! Damn you work fast.

Wed Feb 07, 2018 8:54 am

Thanks y'all!

It looks like I'll be making a new pedal stop.

But before I do, I'm going to burn up the old blade separating the pan on the other side.

Bean sprouts anyone?

Here's what's left of the passenger pan.

I didn't have to cut much to get the front section out.

Wed Feb 07, 2018 12:09 pm

Quote: It looks like I'll be making a new pedal stop.

Why? Whats wrong with that one? :wink:

Wed Feb 07, 2018 6:38 pm

TDCTDI wrote:
Bean sprouts anyone?

It really IS a Ghiapet! Lmao :D

This will be the coolest car at the rally, no question about it.

:popcorn:

Wed Feb 07, 2018 8:43 pm

Buggeee wrote:
It really IS a Ghiapet! Lmao :D

G.. G.. G.. Ghia!

Once the pan was removed, I went about making ribbons again.

With the tunnel flange cleaned up, I commenced to fitting the new pan. Fortunately, the template I made for the other side was perfect for this side too & once it was trimmed up, I repeated the whole process on this side.

advCo wrote:
The set I just received look just as bad, except the relief cuts aren't even welded up. :shock:

As it turns out, the passenger side pan didn't have the seams welded.

So I got to stitch those up too

Thu Feb 08, 2018 4:59 pm

I forgot to mention it but the dash pad showed up yesterday, THANKS Darrel!

Today I spent some more time on the passenger side pan stitching up the relief cuts.

The welds are a bit ugly due to the fact that I'm using a flux core MIG but what the hell, it works.

After a quick wire brushing.

& then knocking down the high spots.

I also plug welded the rest of the pan around the tunnel

Fri Feb 09, 2018 11:45 am

Due to the fact that I wanted to fab up a new brake line before the body goes back on, I went ahead and coated the driver side pan with some roll-on bed liner.

And then a second coat.

After that, cut up a piece of angle iron to make a new pedal stop & stiffener.

Then welded a nut to the stiffener.

Once done, I positioned the pedal stop, drilled a hole through the pan & secured the pedal stop.

And then made sure that I adjusted the free play.

Sat Feb 10, 2018 11:48 am

Next up was running the brake line, I started by threading one end of the new roll through the grommet at the rear.

Then I cut the original ends off the old line so I could reuse them

Then slid it over the new line & flared the end.
Here I measured the amount of line protruding against the forming mandrel.

Then ran the line down the tunnel...

Then under & around the pedal cluster, through the grommets at the pope's hat, flared the line & attached it to the master cylinder.