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Bermoco Sun Dec 17, 2017 5:05 pm

Hello,
I recently bought a 1982 Westfalia Vanagon camper with a JX motor that was not running. Tried to start it and it acted like it wanted to start but would not stay running. I bypassed the fuel system with an alternate fuel supply. Used an outboard motor hose with primer bulb placed into a 1 gallon fuel can and plumbed directly to the injector pump. Squeezed the bulb until firm then cranked engine over and it took a little while but it started to run and finally idle.

Found that the fuel was contaminated with gasoline. Drained all the fuel out, replaced with clean diesel and changed the fuel filter and now the van is running quite well but seems to have low power. I realize that the diesels of that era were some of the most gutless VWs but the later JX motors that are turbocharged were much better.

I think I have two problems. 1) Low turbo boost 2) The fuel injection pump boost enrichment device diaphragm may be leaking.

I believe that the max boost from these turbos is .64-.76 bar which equates to 9.3 to 11 psi. I used a fuel pressure vacuum gauge and the max reading I got was somewhat close to 5 psi.

I also observed that the LDA on the injection pump moved very little. I applied air pressure with my mouth on the hose (yes I can hear you all snickering but it works !) leading to the actuator and it seems like it would bleed off as though the diaphragm leaked.

I read where someone used an inner tube to repair theirs but I would like to replace mine or have it rebuilt. Does any one provide this service?

Am reading through several threads but it seems like most posts are for rebuilding the JX motor.

Thank you in advance. This is a great resource.


Alaskaberrys Sun Dec 17, 2017 5:28 pm

Hey Bermoco - Iím afraid Iím not much help on the LDA device, I just learned the name of it from MsTaboo a day or so ago. Iíve got the JX pump on an AAZ transplant.

Do you have a picture of what the other end of the line connects too? Mine is not attached to anything but has been that way since I started driving it just a few months back.

Hopefully someone will chime in on diagnostics and repairs on for it.

Mark

Bermoco Sun Dec 17, 2017 5:55 pm

Hello Alaskaberrys,

I don't have a good picture of the other end but it attaches to the intake manifold. This hose is where I Teed of to measure the boost. As you probably know the intake manifold is not under vacuum like other normally aspirated engines but is under boost pressure. The LDA boost enrichment device works off of the manifold pressure to add more fuel under boost.

Since I posted this I began thinking about this device is like a vacuum advance canister on a distributor and have seen where people have replaced the diaphragm material. I may try this but if I can find a new or serviceable one for a reasonable price I would rather just swap it out. Hoping others will share their experiences.

How does your AAZ run? I would imagine it will run better with the LDA hooked up.

Gnarlodious Sun Dec 17, 2017 6:52 pm

Boost pressure is a direct result of burned fuel. Thus you cannot get boost unless you have loaded the engine. Put a video camera back there and go for a drive, or have someone watch with the lid off, to get a real idea of the aneroid working. As I understand it, you may not see full boost pressure until the engine is hitting 3,000RPM at full fueling up a long hill.

Check the linkage of your aneroid and make sure the rod is free and working normally. A lot of things can affect the turbo engine. Turbo can be worn out or in the process of self-destructing. I suggest taking the hose off and feel with your finger the free play in the rotor. If it has radial motion, don't run it until you get a thorough evaluation or a rebuild. If it chews itself up you are stuck with buying a turbo, and that gets expensive.

You can also have excessively rich injection, a clogged or leaky wastegate valve, intake manifold coked up or any number of problems with an old engine.

Zeitgeist 13 Sun Dec 17, 2017 8:12 pm

I highly recommend anyone with a turbodiesel get a dual pressure/vacuum test tool like the Mityvac MV8510



This allows you to test your LDA and wastegate actuator, as well as a whole bunch of other functions. By applying an incrementally indicated amount of pressure you can see whether and when the actuators are moving. I use my much older version of this tool all the time.

randolph57 Sun Dec 17, 2017 9:40 pm

LDA cannisters are well known for being defective(leaky) but from memory you should also first be checking the BOV (blow off valve) mounted on the end of the inlet manifold.
Some people have done away with the spring for a small piece of pipe which physically keeps the valve shut preventing any of the boost pressure escaping thus keeping the few remaining ponies within the engine.

Alaskaberrys Sun Dec 17, 2017 11:13 pm

Bermoco wrote: Hello Alaskaberrys,

I don't have a good picture of the other end but it attaches to the intake manifold. This hose is where I Teed of to measure the boost. As you probably know the intake manifold is not under vacuum like other normally aspirated engines but is under boost pressure. The LDA boost enrichment device works off of the manifold pressure to add more fuel under boost.

Since I posted this I began thinking about this device is like a vacuum advance canister on a distributor and have seen where people have replaced the diaphragm material. I may try this but if I can find a new or serviceable one for a reasonable price I would rather just swap it out. Hoping others will share their experiences.

How does your AAZ run? I would imagine it will run better with the LDA hooked up.

It seems to run fine - tho Iíve never witnessed another one run. Much more familiar with the WBX so Iím a bit of a disadvantage to know. It certainly feels like itís producing what it should, plenty of tourqe after it gets up to the higher rpms - smooth all the way up and down. Perhaps it can improve.

Iíll have to pull the air canister out of the way and take a look on the manifold for a location - and check the blow off valve for alterations as randolf57 mentions. Iím glad you posted the topic - Iím way more informed now :oops:

Bermoco Mon Dec 25, 2017 6:52 pm

Hello All,
Thanks Gnarlodious,Zeitgeist, and Randolph 57 for your inputs and advice.
I had a chance to work on the diesel Vanagon with the JX motor. I inserted my pressure gauge tapped into the boost line from the manifold to the LDA boost enrichment device and also filmed the LDA with my Iphone set up in the back camper closet door shelf. (was a bit apprehensive about phone vibrating out of cabinet and falling through the engine compartment onto roadway but worked fine with no issues)Went for a ride and climbed some minor hills. Found that the turbo is putting out the required boost but the LDA canister not actuating the fuel boost properly. Guess I will have to repair or replace. I need those 12 extra ponies!
First picture is of the LDA with no boost. Second picture with red circle shows the slight displacement under boost but nowhere near max travel to the stop circled in red. Anyone have experience with how far the LDA should travel?
I have the Mighty Vac on the way as Zeitgeist suggested.


ALIKA T3 Mon Dec 25, 2017 9:52 pm

Hello!

You can buy new ones but in Europe...

Honestly I would rebuild it, it's pretty easy you will be done faster....

clift_d Tue Jan 02, 2018 3:33 am

New LDA units are available from Dieselkontor in Germany. They own the machine that manufactures these units and so other sellers will almost certainly get their stock from them. You can also get a kit from them to rebuild your existing LDA unit, but it's 2/3 the price of a new unit and so probably not the best option.

T3messie Tue Jan 02, 2018 3:56 am

The repair kit from Dieselkontor includes 5 membranes to repair 5 LDAs.
So I think it is a very good option.

Greetings and thank you for the link.

clift_d Tue Jan 02, 2018 8:06 am

For the average owner, with one engine and only one LDA to repair/replace, 5 membranes is perhaps more than any one person might require.

Gnarlodious Tue Jan 02, 2018 9:32 am

I could use a new membrane, hit me up.

ZsZ Tue Jan 02, 2018 12:22 pm

clift_d wrote: New LDA units are available from Dieselkontor in Germany. They own the machine that manufactures these units and so other sellers will almost certainly get their stock from them. You can also get a kit from them to rebuild your existing LDA unit, but it's 2/3 the price of a new unit and so probably not the best option.

I wonder what is the difference between 1467212301 A and 1467212301 B

AndyBees Tue Jan 02, 2018 12:37 pm

Subscribed.

I have two complete JX engines...... with future plans!

jerrydog411 Tue Jan 02, 2018 1:14 pm

ZsZ wrote:

I wonder what is the difference between 1467212301 A and 1467212301 B


The B version is what I installed with my AAZ ... it has a stronger internal spring according to their website and is for intercooler, tuned and AAZ engines.


Boostcontroller 1467212301 B, tuningversion
[1067] 149.95EUR

Boostcontroller 1467212301 <b>B</b>, tuningversion
Click to enlarge
Boostcontroller for VW Transporter T3 Turbo. Bosch reference 1 467 212 301 B Special version with stronger spring inside - e.g. for modified Oettinger dieselengine, AAZ engine with JX dieselpump, engine with intercoolers

ZsZ Tue Jan 02, 2018 1:26 pm

jerrydog411 wrote: ZsZ wrote:

I wonder what is the difference between 1467212301 A and 1467212301 B


The B version is what I installed with my AAZ ... it has a stronger internal spring according to their website and is for intercooler, tuned and AAZ engines.


Boostcontroller 1467212301 B, tuningversion
[1067] 149.95EUR

Boostcontroller 1467212301 <b>B</b>, tuningversion
Click to enlarge
Boostcontroller for VW Transporter T3 Turbo. Bosch reference 1 467 212 301 B Special version with stronger spring inside - e.g. for modified Oettinger dieselengine, AAZ engine with JX dieselpump, engine with intercoolers

And there is a listing where they say the B is for Pickups and Dokas

Gnarlodious Tue Jan 02, 2018 5:10 pm

What do you think, the B version fuels more at lower RPM? Do you think I could get more power out of my Giles pump?

Bermoco Tue Jan 02, 2018 10:32 pm

Hello all and thanks for the recent replies.

I did place an order with Diesel Konter last week but I did not receive a reply from them yet. Christmas is big in Germany so they may still be closed. Kind of a strange web site and way of ordering. Seems that they have to okay it and you send a check? No provision for credit card service. Anyone order from them?

I did see the diaphragms and inquired about them as well. May go that route if they don't have the complete actuator in stock.
I know that I could probably repair it with some kind of diaphragm material but looking at the diaphragms that the sell they are molded and if I attempted to replace it with a flat diaphragm it probably won't have the same type of performance curve that the O.E.M. actuator has.

For now I plan on wiring the boost actuator wide open for testing to see how it impacts power. I expect it to smoke. My intention is to eventually replace this motor with a ALH TDI and am procuring parts and reading a lot of posts about doing this conversion.

I hope to get the 1.6 TD running well enough for now as I would like to take a few camping trips in it and enjoy it for a while before taking it out of service for the engine swap. It is my understanding that the TD is not too bad and much better than the NA 1.6.

Thanks again and if I end up buying five diaphragms I would be willing to sell some of the others at cost. I would prefer just buying one whole actuator though and be done with it.

ZsZ Wed Jan 03, 2018 1:42 am

Gnarlodious wrote: What do you think, the B version fuels more at lower RPM? Do you think I could get more power out of my Giles pump?

Just thinking. Dont understand why they list it twice with the same partnr. fort different applications.
Maybe the housing is different and the B version fits just under the lid of the flatbed of the pickup and doka.

BTW If the spring is stronger, then added fuel quantity is less with same manifold pressure (less actuator movement) Means less power at lower RPM when you dont change anything else. But you can adjust the max quantity higher as the actuator bumps into the max screw at higher manifold pressure. So with some tweaking you can achieve the same power at lower manifold pressure but more power with more pressure from the turbo.



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