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Thu Jan 04, 2018 7:57 am

What are some rear IRS suspension options?

How much travel from 1 inch longer trailing arms?
does this require new axles and cv joints and everything else?

I heard going with 3X3 arms is likely to cause transmission problems, is this true?

Is there anything one can do to protect the bug body?
(crumple zones/bumpers that bend instead of an impact bending the frame)

Going to build a daily driver, one which I can occasionally hit a dirt path with. I like the idea of long travel. Thinking I can have a budget Baja bug if I just build up the front, or avoid the use of coil overs.

Thanks :)

Thu Jan 04, 2018 8:38 am

Have you been through this thread? Tons of reference for you to read through.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=123315&sid=68855f870b888e103bc392be39265059

Also do you have the Jeff Hibbard Baja Bugs and Buggies book? That answers a ton of your questions.

There's nothing wrong with asking questions but this forum does not get a lot of traffic anymore and most of the questions you are asking have been covered hundreds of times here. The search function will shed a ton of light on your quest.

Fri Jan 05, 2018 12:51 am

Nope, I didn't find the information I was looking for in there. Could someone help please?

Fri Jan 05, 2018 1:33 am

How much of a lift are you looking to add?

Fri Jan 05, 2018 9:25 am

Were open to the idea of some lift if the stance is wider

Just the questions I am asking, please.

Fri Jan 05, 2018 11:16 am

Imo 1in longer isn't worth it and I've never heard of 1" over rear arms. You could notch the spring plate a little for more down travel, cut off the stock shock mount on the trailing arm, weld double mounts on the top of the trailing arm and mount the shocks just inside the wheel well to the cage.

Fri Jan 05, 2018 11:23 am

Vanillagurilla wrote: Imo 1in longer isn't worth it and I've never heard of 1" over rear arms. You could notch the spring plate a little for more down travel, cut off the stock shock mount on the trailing arm, weld double mounts on the top of the trailing arm and mount the shocks just inside the wheel well to the cage.

I believe the Class 5-1600 rules allow 1" longer arms ...

http://www.mooreparts.com/mild-steel-stock-x-1-rear-trailing-arms-for-vw-stub-axles/

... that would allow a larger diameter tire ( 33" maybe ? ). Stock width though.

Fri Jan 05, 2018 3:05 pm

Are you building a car that has to meet the class requirements or a play/ driver? The travel problem that I see on my car with the travel is the bump travel. I can put 600lbs on the back bumper and the bump stops aren't even close to the stoppers, I think it's the shocks bottoming out before the arms hit the stops. You can notch the plate for a bit more down travel but as far as bump travel you will need taller shock mounts as the stock mounts won't support enough shock travel.

Fri Jan 05, 2018 3:44 pm

Vanillagurilla wrote: Are you building a car that has to meet the class requirements or a play/ driver? The travel problem that I see on my car with the travel is the bump travel. I can put 600lbs on the back bumper and the bump stops aren't even close to the stoppers, I think it's the shocks bottoming out before the arms hit the stops. You can notch the plate for a bit more down travel but as far as bump travel you will need taller shock mounts as the stock mounts won't support enough shock travel.

I notched my spring plates 3/8" which ended up increasing the spring plate angle 3° 20'. According to the chart ... ... that results in 7/8" lift. I will have to modify the lower shock mount on my stock irs rear trailing arms so I can run a stock length shock. I could get longer shocks, but I already bought some stock length ones 8-[

Fri Jan 05, 2018 4:47 pm

The issue with the stock length shocks is that when there fully extended at max droop (on the spring plate stop), when they compress the shock bottoms out BEFORE the bump stop hits. Longer shocks on the stock mounts make this worse. If I had a bender and a decent welder I would have moved mine already, I have a set of stock boxed arms with double shock mounts welded to the top of the arm. My issue now is that I don't know what length shocks I need without taking the torsion bars out and cycling the suspension

Fri Jan 05, 2018 6:16 pm

Vanillagurilla wrote: The issue with the stock length shocks is that when there fully extended at max droop (on the spring plate stop), when they compress the shock bottoms out BEFORE the bump stop hits. Longer shocks on the stock mounts make this worse. If I had a bender and a decent welder I would have moved mine already, I have a set of stock boxed arms with double shock mounts welded to the top of the arm. My issue now is that I don't know what length shocks I need without taking the torsion bars out and cycling the suspension

You'll need to attach the upper end of the shock to a roll cage, ( not the stock shock mount ) through the fender well, if you have boxed trailing arms. Here's how "mr bill" did his ...

Fri Jan 05, 2018 9:03 pm

greggl4321 wrote: What are some rear IRS suspension options? Notch springplates and upgrade cvs to type 2

How much travel from 1 inch longer trailing arms? Depends
does this require new axles and cv joints and everything else?yes

I heard going with 3X3 arms is likely to cause transmission problems, is this true?
Probably.., an improperly set up suspension or a properly used suspension of that type , long travel , will beat on a transmission.

Is there anything one can do to protect the bug body?
(crumple zones/bumpers that bend instead of an impact bending the frame)
Don’t hit anything

Going to build a daily driver, one which I can occasionally hit a dirt path with. I like the idea of long travel. Thinking I can have a budget Baja bug if I just build up the front, or avoid the use of coil overs.

This is the problem here . This statement is contradictory.

If you want a daily driver to occasionally hit a dirt path there is absolutely no need for long travel. That is good for you because you say you want a budget Baja. I think I saw in one of your other threads about 4-5K. Well a long travel front or rear will bust your budget before you get past the first step of your build. The thing is you can’t just weld on an a arm front end or 3x3 rear arms and be on your way. You need the cage to support, upgrade brakes, steering, engine tranny yadayadayada. And every thing cost way more than it might first appear.

Thanks :) [/b]

Fri Jan 05, 2018 9:56 pm

Thanks for the responses.

I have heard that notching the spring plates causes compromised durability. Any word on this?

Could swear I read that longer axles and stuff weren't needed for 1" over arms. How sick do one inch arms look, any pictures?

Ive heard stock arms are really strong and that the longer one goes the more prone the arms are to breaking.

Just how much weaker are the 3x3 trailing arms? I'll likely be running 1600cc motor.

Any more info on upgrading stock rear irs? Ive heard bad things about notching the spring plate, good things about smaller trailing arms, and good things about travel.

Hitting things is likely and why ill likely have a skid plate, just wondering if certain tubes are designed to fold in so the frame doesn't get bent out of shape.

Fri Jan 05, 2018 10:47 pm

Dark Earth wrote: Vanillagurilla wrote: The issue with the stock length shocks is that when there fully extended at max droop (on the spring plate stop), when they compress the shock bottoms out BEFORE the bump stop hits. Longer shocks on the stock mounts make this worse. If I had a bender and a decent welder I would have moved mine already, I have a set of stock boxed arms with double shock mounts welded to the top of the arm. My issue now is that I don't know what length shocks I need without taking the torsion bars out and cycling the suspension

You'll need to attach the upper end of the shock to a roll cage, ( not the stock shock mount ) through the fender well, if you have boxed trailing arms. Here's how "mr bill" did his ...

That's how it was set up in the car they came off of, my car isn't set up for it and they cut the shocks off and tossed them so I have no idea what length shock I need.

Fri Jan 05, 2018 11:53 pm

Gregg...You keep spreading your questions all over the place here. It would be far more educational to you and a lot less frustrating to those trying to help you if all of your stuff was in one thread. It's ALL about ONE Baja Bug.

3x3 arms are NOT weaker than stock arms. Thye are designed for offroad use as compared to the street use the stock ones are designed for. For off road use, the stock arms need to be reinforced.

You NEED to just shut up and go buy an inexpensive Baja Bug and learn about them 1st hand instead of trying to over-think the whole deal while listening to wild ass comments from others who may or may not know what the heck they're talking about.

Sat Jan 06, 2018 6:17 am

Sat Jan 06, 2018 9:16 am

Vanillagurilla, I think the best way to get all of your questions answered is to put all of your car stuff in one place. I looked at the photos you have on your account. It looks like a nice 1969 baja. I'd start a build thread. Build threads are just as easy to create as any other thread, just name it something like "1969 baja build" if that name isn't taken. Post the pictures of the car on that thread, and document any progress you've made. Although I can't personally answer any of your roll cage setup questions, there are many on this site that can. If you start your own build thread, more people will be willing to offer advice. :)

Sat Jan 06, 2018 10:29 am

Dark Earth wrote: Vanillagurilla, I think the best way to get all of your questions answered is to put all of your car stuff in one place. I looked at the photos you have on your account. It looks like a nice 1969 baja. I'd start a build thread. Build threads are just as easy to create as any other thread, just name it something like "1969 baja build" if that name isn't taken. Post the pictures of the car on that thread, and document any progress you've made. Although I can't personally answer any of your roll cage setup questions, there are many on this site that can. If you start your own build thread, more people will be willing to offer advice. :)

I don't really have any questions lol just said I don't know what length shocks I need. I know what needs to be done and how to do it but lack the tools and space.

Sat Jan 06, 2018 10:40 am

Vanillagurilla wrote: Dark Earth wrote: Vanillagurilla, I think the best way to get all of your questions answered is to put all of your car stuff in one place. I looked at the photos you have on your account. It looks like a nice 1969 baja. I'd start a build thread. Build threads are just as easy to create as any other thread, just name it something like "1969 baja build" if that name isn't taken. Post the pictures of the car on that thread, and document any progress you've made. Although I can't personally answer any of your roll cage setup questions, there are many on this site that can. If you start your own build thread, more people will be willing to offer advice. :)

I don't really have any questions lol just said I don't know what length shocks I need. I know what needs to be done and how to do it but lack the tools and space.

Oops, mybad Vanillagurilla :oops:

Sat Jan 06, 2018 11:55 am

Can someone answer the questions

Are stock arms in the rear good?
Do the components and the arms break less when they are smaller?
I've heard it mentioned that stuff breaks more with the 3x3...

How much travel do 1" over arms get?

Ive heard bad things about notching the spring plate, please inform me as to why this is.