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srfndoc Sat Mar 03, 2018 7:38 am

srfndoc wrote: LAGrunthaner wrote: How is the canvas poptop tent secured to the wooden frame in this photo? It appears to be behind it.

Its stapled as usual, just hard to see in that photo as the canvas is similar color to the wood:

These photos are all from Clara's gallery if you want to take a closer look.

crofty Mon Mar 05, 2018 12:34 pm

Must be a later addition- there isn't one in my 4/65 SO42 Pop Top

crofty Mon Mar 05, 2018 12:38 pm

I think that diagram is both pop top and non pop models. In a pop top there is no #23

swiss_bulli wrote: Hi Crofty

I did some research and another previous 67 owner has confirmed he had this part too. It supports the roof panels.

I found an old thread (, where it is pictured as well:

What I don't understand yet. In the partslist for SO-42 there is mentioned, that another woodbow is on the roof (number 4). I don't have it, but I also do not know, where there could be any place for it...

swiss_bulli Mon Mar 05, 2018 2:04 pm

I tried to make a drawing of the bracket with an app on my mobile. Not the best experience, but I hope it helps someone.

All measures are metric. Metal is around 1 mm thick, 20 cm long and 1.5 cm for each arm. Upper part is riveted to the metal bow with the same style rivets as for the curtain rails. The bracket is around 2 mm up from the bow. Rivets are 3.5 cm from both sides each and 0.7 cm from the top. The screw hole for the panel might be differently drilled on every bracket. Mine is 9.2 cm from right and 1.2 cm from the bow.

swiss_bulli Mon Feb 18, 2019 11:41 am

It is quite a while ago I posted the last time on my build thread. It happened a lot behind the scenes. I bought a good stack of parts including some nice stuff like an original Neiman steering lock and some ambulance fans. But I didnt focus enough on the build itself. I was really good in disambling everything, but now I will get to the harder part. Start rebuilding stuff and weld sheet metal. Also I needed to buy a lot of tools for my garage, but finally I have a solid base. With a workshop press, a sandblasting cabin and the necessary air tools.

What happened in the meantime. I removed the engine and gearbox. The transaxle was a small nut version, so not correct for my bus. Not far from me I found a guy who wanted to trade with me and I got a correct H-coded one with 46mm nuts. As I didnt know how the transmission was handled and I want to put everything back to 0 miles (or at least as good as possible), I decided for a rebuild. Well, removing the brake drums was the first hurdle. One side was going fine, with some pressure on it. But the other side was so rusted, nothing I did helped. What does a dumb man do? Yes, I took my angle grinder and killed the axle shaft.

As result I had to find another transmission as the only one in the area who had an axle shaft wanted 350$ for it :evil:. I got another complete setup for only 100$ more and now have a lot of spare parts :D. But also the spare one has it downsides as those bearings clearly show.

But again, I found some NOS German SKF bearings and will renew everything. It was also the first time I could test my blasting cabin. I will soon blast all the parts and get them some nice new paint.

Last but not least, I used a plan for a rotisserie from this site and built me these great helpers:

Hopefully my posts will show more progress in the near future. I have to anyway as I heared from the property owner that the land was sold and there is a plan to build a few houses on it, where I rented my garage. They still have to wait for some more acres still not in their hands, but I have to make progress now. Hopefully, I can stay for a year or even longer. It is nearly impossible to find a payable spot in my region to work on such a project...

BarryL Mon Feb 18, 2019 12:35 pm

Can't say I've ever seen a drum removed like that ever before but it proves you can cut through the spacer/slinger and shaft.

Maybe don't blast the mating surfaces of the RGB halves then lap them on a sheet of glass with 320 grit if you can get the dowels out.

swiss_bulli Mon Feb 18, 2019 12:49 pm

Thanks BarryL, I tried to move the blaster around the mating surfaces to leave them untouched. Going forward I will even tape them so the chance is smaller I hurt them. Is a 320 grit fine enough to seal properly with the gaskets back in place?

BarryL Mon Feb 18, 2019 1:07 pm

swiss_bulli wrote: Is a 320 grit fine enough to seal properly with the gaskets back in place?
Finer might be better. 320 is ok. Perfectly flat to mate is where it's at.

swiss_bulli Thu Oct 31, 2019 1:40 am

Long time no update. I was always working on stuff, but not too focused and this means less results. We worked out a small plan now and do focus more on one thing at a time.

I was so proud finally having rebuilt my transaxle. Unfortunately, there is still one issue left :(.

After cutting down the axle shaft and buying a second transaxle for spares, I started cleaning, blasting and painting things. The core was given to a local VW specialist with the correct tools for rebuilding a transmission. Without the internals I could blast the shell with glas.

I also did fix a previous bad welding job for the handbrake cable inlet on the backing plate. I needed to bring everything straight again and simulate the spot welds.

Blasting with my small cabin is a lot of work, but seeing the parts nicely shining in the end is rewarding :).

Well, probably due to some poor drying or the rust prevention product my paint was not holding good at some places. So remove paint with a paint stripper and do it again *yipiii*.

I'm learning so much about all this stuff and I think my next piece, the front beam, will be less of a pain due to my gained process understandings...

It makes me so happy every time I bring back a VW logo on the parts :)

Some tools I used during my work:
Oil pump removal tool can be used as plug extractor when welding on two nuts

To bring the outer upper bearing of the RGB on the axle shaft, I used a T-pipe connector with a threaded bar, some spacers and nuts. Worked really well. You can put e.g. a wooden piece in the T part to have more leverage force.

And the threads on one axle shaft wasn't good to easily put a new nut on. So I bought an oversized threading tool.

The brake assembly was quite straightforward thankfully. After putting mostly everything together, it looks so nice!

Of cause, the learning is not yet over and maybe someone can answer to my problems question.
Well, what do you do after you put everything together? I fastened the nuts and put oil in it. After that, I checked if everything is turning fine. And what a surprise, the axles are not moving anywhere :oops:. Tightening them down, caused the drums to get in touch with the backing plates. Lock down...
I'm thinking of removing the brake parts again and grind down the channel of the backing plate where the drum slides in. My only explanation right now is, that I have added three layers of paint, which is just to thick now.
Is it normal, that the gap between the rear ring face of the drum and the backing plate surface is such small or should there be more freeplay?

Peter_N Fri Nov 01, 2019 1:38 pm

Nice job on the gearbox! Funny to see you also used an oil pump puller and two welded nuts. Its the perfect tool for that :)
I know that if you replace the oil plugs with new (taller) ones on a small nut gearbox, you can jam up the gears and you cant spin the axles anymore.

Good luck with your project and keep the updates coming!

swiss_bulli Sat Nov 02, 2019 9:59 am

Thanks Peter! The oil plugs are not an issue (big nut by the way) as it turns nicely when the crown nut is not fastened to 300NM. The drum touches the backing plate actually. Im still not sure, if such a tight fit is normal?!

swiss_bulli Wed Nov 13, 2019 3:17 pm

I removed the paint layers from the backing plate area where the drum touches, but it is still a too tight fit. Im wondering if the axle spacer should come more outward, so the drum would have more clearance. What do you think?

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