67rustavenger |
Sat Nov 09, 2024 10:04 am |
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67conv wrote: 67rustavenger wrote: I turn 65 tomorrow and this task is quite easy to accomplish in a day if you take your time and work carefully.
Happy birthday, 67rustavenger!
I just did this 'job' last month on my '67 convertible, and I will be 71 in 3 months. :shock: The actual procedure itself isn't all that difficult, but factoring in the old-age 'handicaps' certainly plays a significant role! As you said, taking your time, and working carefully are the keys.
I've done this job many times over the years on my past 356s and Beetles, without much effort or thought. A bit of a bitch to do - always was - but, damn! At age 70 now, it's a whole different level of "pain in the ass"!
My saving grace this time was that I still have my engine out, (from my engine fire in Aug. 2023, and subsequent repaint, etc.) and the car up on 4 individual locked wheel dollies (no jack-stands) which gave me more working space while lying under there! Everything gets done - eventually, but in s-l-o-w motion compared to when I was younger..
Thanks for the Birthday salutations.
Yes, things take longer than when we were younger.
I have to remember to lay my head on the packing blanket I use to lay on when working under the car. If I pick my head up to get a better look at what I'm doing. I find the next day my neck muscles are stiff! :shock:
If you're feeling a bit older and running out of energy while working under your car. Bring a pillow and lay your head on it for a quick nap. :D |
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chrisflstf |
Sat Nov 09, 2024 12:00 pm |
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Happy birthday from a 70 year old. Its harder, takes longer but still fun. :D |
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ManyVDubs |
Sun Nov 10, 2024 4:23 pm |
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chrisflstf wrote: Happy birthday from a 70 year old. Its harder, takes longer but still fun. :D
Congrats on making 70. My '68 bug starts shaking and feels like it is about to break the sound barrier when it approaches that number on the speedometer.
Back to business... Instead of turning wrenches all day I have been scouring the internet and Samba for replacing the swing axle boot using a floor jack and jack stands. There's nothing. All videos are either with it on a lift or with the engine out.
Instead of jacking up one side of the car, if I buy a pair of Rhino ramps will that extra 6" clearance be enough to slide under the car and replace the swing axle boot?
I could have a set delivered overnight. Not feeling comfy about having the car on two old tires for a couple of days with me under it.
Thanks, I want to keep the Social Security payments coming. Not taking any chances. |
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67rustavenger |
Sun Nov 10, 2024 10:02 pm |
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I've changed the boots with a set of drive-on ramps.
That will be far safer than jack stands and a floor jack under the shock mount.
Whatever it takes to do the job with the axle housing level. |
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EVfun |
Sun Nov 10, 2024 11:19 pm |
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ManyVDubs wrote: Back to business... Instead of turning wrenches all day I have been scouring the internet and Samba for replacing the swing axle boot using a floor jack and jack stands. There's nothing. All videos are either with it on a lift or with the engine out.
Instead of jacking up one side of the car, if I buy a pair of Rhino ramps will that extra 6" clearance be enough to slide under the car and replace the swing axle boot?
I could have a set delivered overnight. Not feeling comfy about having the car on two old tires for a couple of days with me under it.
Thanks, I want to keep the Social Security payments coming. Not taking any chances.
On my last Bug that is a job I let an import shop handle. On a lift they can swap a boot out in minutes while standing under the car. I think they charged 1/2 hour labor. I asked him to look in the right heater box for why the rear heater flap wouldn't close (stale air heater). He went ahead and welded the tab for the rod back on the door. He felt bad charging me the shop rate for a simple axle boot. I remember from High School auto shop (too many years ago) how easy that job is when you can walk around under the car. Of course, the shop needs to know old VWs so they put the seam in an appropriate place and compress it a little. On my beach buggy I've done the job myself, and I might pull the body if I have to do it again.
Last time on my buggy I first verified the opposite side parking brake holds (I've seen more than one old Bug that has dropped the ebrake cable on one side). Then I loosened the wheel on the side I'm changing. Next I jacked up that whole side of the car as high as common jack stands extend and put the rear torsion housing and front beam on those jack stands. I removed the tire and raised the axle with a spring plate jack. Then I got under the buggy and changed the axle boot. I've had best luck with the seam facing the axle tube cover bolt just to the rear of strait up. The axle tube moves up and forward as the suspension compresses. |
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Busstom |
Mon Nov 11, 2024 12:55 am |
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On my '66 convertible that I just put the EMPI boots on, I didn't worry one bit about level axles and all that PITA, there is an ungodly amount of stretch in these boots, and I'm pretty sure they are made of the exact same material that their CV boots are made of, and just think about how much continual dynamic flex the offroaders put on them. Even a caveman could slap a pair on a Beetle and be in good shape, I'm quite sure. |
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EVfun |
Mon Nov 11, 2024 1:03 am |
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Busstom wrote: On my '66 convertible that I just put the EMPI boots on, I didn't worry one bit about level axles and all that PITA, there is an ungodly amount of stretch in these boots, and I'm pretty sure they are made of the exact same material that their CV boots are made of, and just think about how much continual dynamic flex the offroaders put on them. Even a caveman could slap a pair on a Beetle and be in good shape, I'm quite sure.
Are you talking about this style EMPI swing axle boot? I've never used them before, but some people seem to like them more than the VW style split boot. I would consider switching next time, I see one of my VW style boots is already showing signs of cracking rubber (while the other side is at least 10 years older and looks good). |
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ManyVDubs |
Mon Nov 11, 2024 9:18 am |
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EVfun wrote: "
On my last Bug that is a job I let an import shop handle. On a lift they can swap a boot out in minutes while standing under the car.
I just drove 20 miles round trip to the last VW shop left but he wasn't in. I was going to rent or borrow two torsion hangars. He was closed. I should have called first.With two hangar tools I could lift the bug up real high and get it fixed.
I'm going to order some ramps. Hopefully they are high enough to change the boot. I might also talk to a couple of local shops but I will try ramps first. |
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Busstom |
Mon Nov 11, 2024 9:20 am |
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EVfun wrote: Are you talking about this style EMPI swing axle boot?
Yes, that's them. I ordered mine off Amazon and they shipped from Dune Buggy Warehouse. I used to be a firm Febi adherent, but not anymore, if these last like people around here say they do, then I'm a convert. My buddy put Febis on my convertible a few years ago and they were cracked around the bottoms at the axle flange, and I peeled them off like raw pizza dough :x |
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Busstom |
Mon Nov 11, 2024 9:22 am |
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ManyVDubs wrote: With two hangar tools I could lift the bug up real high and get it fixed.
I'm going to order some ramps. Hopefully they are high enough to change the boot. I might also talk to a couple of local shops but I will try ramps first.
You're overthinking this, just slap those EMPI boots on and be done. Park on a curb if you're fearful of getting under a car. |
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EVfun |
Mon Nov 11, 2024 3:08 pm |
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Busstom wrote: EVfun wrote: Are you talking about this style EMPI swing axle boot?
Yes, that's them. I ordered mine off Amazon and they shipped from Dune Buggy Warehouse. I used to be a firm Febi adherent, but not anymore, if these last like people around here say they do, then I'm a convert. My buddy put Febis on my convertible a few years ago and they were cracked around the bottoms at the axle flange, and I peeled them off like raw pizza dough :x
My replacement Febi boot doesn’t leak yet, but looks like a 15 year old sun exposed tire. The other boot still looks good, but I don’t know who made it. It’s around 30 years old and has no makers mark.
Was your latest use of the EMPI style boot recent? I don’t think my OCD tendencies could allow me to have a different looking boot on each side, but it’s winter and I could change both. The right boot is likely 30 years old. |
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Busstom |
Mon Nov 11, 2024 7:59 pm |
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Quote: Was your latest use of the EMPI style boot recent? I don’t think my OCD tendencies could allow me to have a different looking boot on each side, but it’s winter and I could change both. The right boot is likely 30 years old.
Yes, I installed them last month and they're currently holding oil, but I have not driven it yet.
As far as your OCD, the EMPIs come in a 2-pack, so that might sway you :) |
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ManyVDubs |
Mon Nov 11, 2024 8:21 pm |
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I just came up with the solution and will start about 5AM tomorrow!
With 4 jackstands, two can hold up the car under the torsion bar and the other two can hold up each swing axle to clear the transmission mount bars. By slowly going back and forth and raising each side one notch at a time the car will be in balance. My creeper can then be used to slide right under the car to get to the boots. It seems much safer and easier plus I can do both sides. Pics to follow
I don't want to be crushed like a bug by a bug! :lol: |
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EVfun |
Mon Nov 11, 2024 11:21 pm |
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I would be a little concerned supporting the car at both the torsion housing and at the rear axle. One, the axle jackstand is kinda in your way. Two, if you have enough weight on that one to lift the axle near level you will have almost no weight on the jackstand at the rear torsion housing.
I have one of these in the garage. That top lug goes over the body to chassis bolt behind the rear tire. The middle piece in that picture needs to be flipped over and it hooks onto the spring plate. The bottom nut/handle is turned to compress the spring plate and lift the axle. |
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ManyVDubs |
Tue Nov 12, 2024 4:59 am |
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EVfun wrote: I would be a little concerned supporting the car at both the torsion housing and at the rear axle.
Agreed! Two of those tools are what I need. I got up early to turn wrenches but now I will wait. I'm not taking any chances. Two of those tools would cost less than I would pay for someone to put the boots on. Doing something for the first time is always a little tricky. |
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ManyVDubs |
Tue Nov 12, 2024 6:50 am |
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OK, I ordered one spring plate torsion bar tool.
It should be here in a week from good ole California!
When anyone trashes California just remember they have most of our VW car parts.
For a moment, I was overthinking it again and thinking I needed two of them because one wheel would be hanging lower while the other wheel is being raised. But, that wouldn't change the weight any because a jack on the ground isn't pushing the torsion bar up with the ground supporting the weight. Using the torsion bar would mean the weight stays the same. Sorry, never done it before. I don't want to be squashed like a bug by a bug.
Call me Grasshopper |
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ManyVDubs |
Mon Jan 06, 2025 3:31 pm |
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ManyVDubs wrote: OK, I ordered one spring plate torsion bar tool.
The worst threads are when you never hear back from the person having the trouble. My first thought is "Were they squashed like a bug by a bug?".
The answer is no! I AM HERE TO REPORT COMPLETE SUCCESS and have uploaded pics and have a couple of tips my over thinking mind thought of.
I inserted the bolts into the boot ahead of time then crawled under the car to put it on. STOP..no need. My arms were able to reach everything from sitting upright with my chest against the wheel hub and my left arm through this hole (circled in red) It is safe and is not a pinch point (arm amputation).
You can just slide the boot on and I was able to reach all of the bolts.
I only laid down and slid under the car to put the inner clamp on.....DON'T!
There are two easy ways to reach it. If it is a worm screw clamp just start it a couple of threads and then slide it down the axle and over the boot. It will fit. It can then be screwed in once in place. The Bentley's service manual says not to over tighten or it can warp the rubber. I found a much easier way: ZIP TIES!!!!
Like spring loaded pushrod tubes this is a temporary fix. I tried for an hour to get the metal inside band on while under the car. It was impossible. I realized later It could have slid down the shaft in place. But these zip ties work great and I recommend them. The are EXACTLY the same size as the metal band...18" long and 1/2" wide. It was so easy to just thread it, pull it, and done! I have driven 100 miles and not a drop has leaked. I used the metal band on the outside boot. OK. next up I am replacing all the leaking spring loaded pushrod tubes with better spring loaded pushrod tubes.
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foamermetal |
Tue Jan 21, 2025 7:44 pm |
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My fix for that when putting the car on jack stands was to take some scrap steel and shape it to fit under the spring plate into the gap before it comes to rest on the lip at the bottom. I then welded that to some thin sheetmetal shaped to hang over the spring plate. I put on a key ring and a long orange streamer to make sure i dont forget to remove it. |
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ManyVDubs |
Wed Jan 22, 2025 4:20 am |
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foamermetal wrote: My fix for that ... I put on a key ring and a long orange streamer to make sure i dont forget to remove it.
If you are in Warner Robbins I bet you took a Sharpie and wrote "Remove before Flight" on it :-). Like many things, this boot looked daunting but in the end wasn't too bad. Next up is rocker arm and pushrod tube removal with the engine in it. I'm not pulling it just yet. There's still a little left in her. |
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KTPhil |
Wed Jan 22, 2025 8:35 am |
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ManyVDubs wrote: foamermetal wrote: My fix for that ... I put on a key ring and a long orange streamer to make sure i dont forget to remove it.
If you are in Warner Robbins I bet you took a Sharpie and wrote "Remove before Flight" on it :-).
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