TheSamba.com :: View topic

Tue Feb 13, 2018 3:06 pm

That is an EGR pipe. It was used on some '74 and possibly earlier models. It would only connect to a late model EGR with a custom fabricated pipe. Seems like there might be more heat from a connection that close to the head. I don't know how this would affect the diaphram in a late model EGR valve.

Tue Feb 13, 2018 6:42 pm

Does and adapter exist to go from the '77 EGR to this one?

Wed Feb 14, 2018 4:38 am

No. You would have to make one.

Wed Feb 14, 2018 6:05 am

JimmieH - Did you eliminate yours?

Wed Feb 14, 2018 8:28 am

Looking at the tins I need to replace to swap the exhaust, I can't seem to find these two in the manual:

Can anyone confirm where these go? There's a reference to having to remove the heads to put some in, in this forum:

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=375847

I hope that's not the case!

Wed Feb 14, 2018 10:27 am

I the first tin you show is the lower front left tin for a 75-78 FI'd rig, while the second tin you show is the lower front right tin for a 72-74 carbureted rig. For the lower front right tin, you can get the equivalent tin for a FI'd 411/412 (and maybe a '79) which will not have the hole in it.

Either of these tins can be easily removed and replaced with the engine in place.

Wed Feb 14, 2018 11:15 am

So it sounds like my '77 might already have the first tin on it? These pics are from the kit that GS offers to convert late bays to the '72-'74 ones. For the second, I'm assuming the hole isn't necessary then?

Any chance anyone has seen a pic or diagram of these in place? I can't seem to find them anywhere. you'd think they would be in the manual...

Wed Feb 14, 2018 11:36 am

This may help
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7758607#7758607

Wed Feb 14, 2018 11:51 am

The lower front left tin shown may be correct, not easy to tell with the stamp over it. This is another view.

Wed Feb 14, 2018 1:44 pm

Well, I just picked these up. I'll have to circle-back once I get them all cleaned up and ready to install. On that note, do tins require high-heat paint? Or will Rustoleum suffice?

Wed Feb 14, 2018 1:52 pm

Rustoleum seems to work. I had a set powder coated but have never gone through the hassle of installing them. Look nice in their box full of tissue paper and bubble wrap though. :wink:

Fri Feb 16, 2018 8:55 am

One more piece of tin to remove. Is it just me, or are these Phillip's-head screws the worst? I've already drilled out 4 and have one more to go...

Fri Feb 16, 2018 10:25 am

Goach2 wrote: Is it just me, or are these Phillip's-head screws the worst?

It's just you. :wink:

This is your friend.
https://i.redditmedia.com/rHqPgkzgEntt_yhkdyzGAJSQ...282ddfa27b

Fri Feb 16, 2018 10:44 am

I have replaced many of the screws in my tin with washer head hex screws, which makes removal of a rusty screw much easier. You can even get washer head hex screws which will also accept a Phillips screwdriver.

Mon Feb 26, 2018 9:22 am

Making good progress. One thing that was recently suggested to me, which I hadn't heard before, was that the copper gaskets for the exhaust ports have to be heat-treated before installation.

Is everyone in agreement on this?

Thanks!

Mon Feb 26, 2018 10:58 am

Yes. Annealed!

Read more here:
http://www.ratwell.com/technical/Exhaust.html

Mon Feb 26, 2018 10:42 pm

Are Phillips head screws the worst? Well you need to consider they have been in there for 40 years, you have dissimilar metals, and the heads are probably rusted. I went with Ratwell’s suggestion of black anodized stainless Phillips head screws. The part number is on his website. Finding the correct anodized stainless washer was a chore. Had to buy a box of 100. So if you go this route let me know. I have extras. Stainless reacts less than regular steel does with aluminum. I anti-seized every screw for future removal. Most people use the cheese head screws. But they were not my choice. Before you attempt to secure the heater boxes you should check out Clatter’s “cheap junk” engine build. Around the middle of it he addresses a very important aspect of the sealing process. He’s the only person that I have seen document this. And it’s extremely important. However you choose to make the tops of the pipes flat...you will be taking off material. You need to then remove material from the mounting flanges. Get a micrometer and make sure that that the distance is equal. Other wise they will not seal properly. And mock it up several times to make sure. Hope this helps.

Wed Feb 28, 2018 11:17 am

Thanks Hoody/BUSBOSS,

So much for bolt-on and go!