djkeev |
Thu Mar 29, 2018 7:43 am |
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I have so much welding ahead of me that I sprung for a set of "Clecos" to hold panels tightly in place as I tack them together.
Essentially removable and reuseable pop rivets.
Opted for some clamping jaws too.
I'll also be ordering a magnetic brass backing plate to help with the small patches.
Dave |
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advCo |
Thu Mar 29, 2018 9:05 am |
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I've been shopping a Cleco set as well. The small aluminum plates that allow for one cleco to be used on each side of a seam look quite handy as well.
Seen here:
https://youtu.be/8jTwPmSsrgk?t=3m46s |
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djkeev |
Thu Mar 29, 2018 9:42 am |
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That is so cool!!!
I prefer to butt weld but wasn't sure how to accomplish that.
I have an air powered step flange tool I figured I would use.
With these aluminum plates, my options are much bigger now.
They look easy to make too, a flat bar of 1" aluminum, drill holes and cut to length.
Thanks for posting this video! I captured a screen shot........
Dave |
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advCo |
Thu Mar 29, 2018 10:35 am |
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Yes, he makes a good point in the video, however, that all the holes on the plates would need to be exactly the same dimension apart. Otherwise, you'd have to number each plate for its location when test fitting, etc.
Once I get to that point I'm going to have my uncle waterjet a bunch for me. Depending on the price point/interest I may be able to offer bundles here for a good price. |
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djkeev |
Thu Mar 29, 2018 11:29 am |
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I missed that in the video but it makes sense.
If you get some made, count me in for about 15-20 of them.
Dave |
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CiderGuy |
Thu Mar 29, 2018 12:23 pm |
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These work well and are very affordable
https://m.harborfreight.com/butt-welding-clamps-8-pc-60545.html?utm_referrer=direct%2Fnot%20provided |
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Braukuche |
Thu Mar 29, 2018 12:29 pm |
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CiderGuy wrote: These work well and are very affordable
https://m.harborfreight.com/butt-welding-clamps-8-pc-60545.html?utm_referrer=direct%2Fnot%20provided
Those things work great as long a small you have access behind the panel.
Magnets work for those areas where you don't have access. |
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Mellow Yellow 74 |
Thu Mar 29, 2018 1:13 pm |
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You can use clecos for butt welds.
You trial fit the new panel and use welding clamps to hold it in place and mark your cut line. Then instead of cutting along the whole length of the line you leave a little overlapping tab where you want each cleco to go.
You then cleco the panel in position and do your final adjustment then tack weld between the tabs. You can then remove the clecos, use an air hacksaw to cut the tabs off and then tack weld where the clecos were. |
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djkeev |
Thu Mar 29, 2018 3:32 pm |
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CiderGuy wrote: These work well and are very affordable
https://m.harborfreight.com/butt-welding-clamps-8-pc-60545.html?utm_referrer=direct%2Fnot%20provided
Oh man!! You're killing me here! $$$'s
Out at my Daughters there is a HF, now I need to go get two sets of those clamps!
Sheesh! :lol:
Because of this thread my whole game plan has changed from flanging to butt welding!
I still very much like the idea of the two Cleco system to hold panels in place.
The HF clamps would hold the metal on the same plane.
Dave |
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Mellow Yellow 74 |
Thu Mar 29, 2018 4:28 pm |
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I have a set of those butt weld clamps but they are not that good. They are fiddly to use, they don’t have great clamping force so panels can slide out and they leave a gap of a couple of mm which makes it easier to blow through. |
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djkeev |
Thu Mar 29, 2018 4:58 pm |
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Mellow Yellow 74 wrote: I have a set of those butt weld clamps but they are not that good. They are fiddly to use, they don’t have great clamping force so panels can slide out and they leave a gap of a couple of mm which makes it easier to blow through.
Hmmm.........
Thanks fo that info! ^^^^
Maybe just staying with the clecos and an aluminum plate, as the photo above shows, is best.
That looks to be a very solid connection.
Dave |
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Mellow Yellow 74 |
Thu Mar 29, 2018 7:38 pm |
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This is what I am talking about above:
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/54-chevy-210-post-build.969489/page-2 |
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djkeev |
Fri Mar 30, 2018 3:22 am |
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Mellow Yellow 74 wrote: This is what I am talking about above:
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/54-chevy-210-post-build.969489/page-2
Yes, that is exactly what I envisioned from your description. ^^
Now the question is can a make a seam that neat and accurate? :shock:
Or do I revert back to my flanging concept? The flange allows for a little "wiggle room" and cutting inaccuracy. :lol:
I'm no professional tin knocker...... nor do I pretend to be one.
Dave |
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CiderGuy |
Sat Mar 31, 2018 4:01 pm |
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djkeev wrote: Mellow Yellow 74 wrote: This is what I am talking about above:
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/54-chevy-210-post-build.969489/page-2
Yes, that is exactly what I envisioned from your description. ^^
Now the question is can a make a seam that neat and accurate? :shock:
Or do I revert back to my flanging concept? The flange allows for a little "wiggle room" and cutting inaccuracy. :lol:
I'm no professional tin knocker...... nor do I pretend to be one.
Dave
Did either of you notice he was using a Miller 210 Tig welder ? Different gags. |
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