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Fri May 18, 2018 3:20 pm

I searched but did not see a how to...

I have some nicely cleaned up seams and it is time to apply new seam sealer before doing the full body repaint. I have some of the 3m stuff with the special gun and the mixing tip. The thing is, I have no idea jow to apply it so that the final product will look good/look "factory" when I am done.

What's the technique here... tape on both sides of the seam? How do i get the sealer down into the seam so that I dont need to worry about water intrusion, but at the same time end up with a bead that looks good on the outside? Hopefully someone here has some tips! Thanks im advance!

Fri May 18, 2018 4:00 pm

Tape along the both sides of the seam as you mentioned. Fill the seam with your sealer then run your finger down the seam. Remove tape before it sets up. That's how I did it.

If I were to do it again, I'd be extra diligent that the tape edge just crests the start of the seam radius into the seam. Leaves a cleaner finish.

Others may have a different method.

Fri May 18, 2018 5:05 pm

The tape thing gives a nice clean edge...I don't bother though. Run a bead and smooth with my finger. If you looked at the factory work, I believe it was just applied with a gun and thats it.

Fri May 18, 2018 7:04 pm

At an automotive paint store, you will find that they sell different types of seam sealers. Some are meant for areas that will be covered by carpet (like a trunk and are painted on with a brush) and they are a softer "set", usually one part. For the exterior seams, they have two part seam sealers that you can sand after you apply it. Read the products instructions and it will tell you if you need to apply it to bare or primed metal. You still have to remove the rust first...

Fri May 18, 2018 10:19 pm

Use 3m whatever you do.. either the heavy body, bare metal seam sealer, or controlled flow(self leveling, gets real smooth) all work great. Been using them for 15 years now. Somethings it helps after you use a acid brush or your finger to smooth it out, and once it tacks up a little to run a rag with some thinner on it over the seam sealer to help it smooth it out.

Sat May 19, 2018 3:58 am

Working a caulk gun seems Easy enough, but there are skills one learns to form a perfect bead without tooling.

Most people seem to make an ungodly mess when caulking.

So many variables........
Size of hole,
Angle of cut on the nozzle,
Speed of gun movement,
Speed of squeezing dispenser trigger,
Angle you hold the gun,
Pushing the bead,
Pulling the bead,

It is all a task learned by practice.

Have plenty of rags and a can of the prooer solvent.
Odds are that By the time you finish, your seams will be much nicer than the first ones you did.

Dave

Sat May 19, 2018 3:01 pm

Thanks for all of the recommendations, very helpful... I will try out the tape and finger technique and may try the solvent rag for smoothing out as well. For background, i tried one seam and it quickly became apparent that i needed to rethink my approach... I am using the 3m bare metal seam sealer, one of the issues there is that it uses a special mixing tip (the same one used by the panel bond for those who have used that product) and the size of the hole in the tip means you are definitely working with an excess of material... not a fine tip. Y any means. I will try it out again with your advice in mind. Thanks for all of the guidance!

Sat May 19, 2018 3:50 pm

Personally, I'd step away from the epoxy seam sealer.

3M 08405 is all you really need for a quality job.

Dave

Sat May 19, 2018 7:54 pm

Opinions vary, but I'm complete opposite agreement than Dave. The two-part epoxy sealers are SO much better and more durable than the single part products that it's definitely worth using them whenever possible.

Where in Seattle are you? I can't promise it, but I may be able to swing by and at least show on at least one seam how to do this.