TheSamba.com :: View topic

Fri Jun 15, 2018 12:11 pm

...for my 'coolant overflow' tank so far I have been making do with a hose leading to a plastic water bottle... it's working OK - no probs so far, although last year at one point the first bottle I was using sprang a leak which went unnoticed for sometime leading to slightly low coolant levels.

A guy in Germany gave me what he says is an original coolant overflow tank for a JX DIESEL engine and I figure it would be wise to install it....

...so I am just being safe and inquiring if there are any particular special considerations to keep in mind before and while doing this?

I haven't looked yet but I might guess it can require drilling some holes in order to mount it properly...... ??? Otherwise I can't think of anything else that might be of concern.

Does it mean that once this is in there, I can simply use IT to check my coolant levels? ...and add coolant to IT instead of my main coolant tank?

Thanks

Fri Jun 15, 2018 12:14 pm

Just look for the two holes in the rear valance underneath the license door. It's held in place by two 6mm bolts passing through those holes. Easy peasy

Fri Jun 15, 2018 12:30 pm

Quote: Does it mean that once this is in there, I can simply use IT to check my coolant levels? ...and add coolant to IT instead of my main coolant tank?

That was the idea. From time to time, you'd still probably want to look at your actual tank. A few things need to work properly for the coolant to flow back and forth.

I think there is a bracket for the plastic tang on the bottom too to help support it.

Fri Jun 15, 2018 12:43 pm

Thanks.... I found out this is a LATE tank for my EARLY diesel, but should work none the less.

Fri Jun 15, 2018 1:48 pm

I have an aftermarket generic tank on mine. Got it off of Amazon. $15 I recall. Works fine.

Tue Jun 19, 2018 11:34 am

Not enough space back there for this tank to fit - so I went back to my 'overflow-bottle' system but upgraded to a heavier plastic bottle. My only complaint about this system is that this bottle doesn't hold so much coolant.

Wed Dec 05, 2018 5:35 am

Hi Guys... I am installing the new overflow tank and when I tried to remove the old hose from it it ripped apart the nipple 😞 Is there any way I can still use this tank?

Wed Dec 05, 2018 5:44 am

maybe you can find a threaded barb hose connector in the suitable size in a garden- or plumbers shop

Next time use a blade to cut the old hose throuugh before trying to remove it

Wed Dec 05, 2018 5:53 am

ZsZ wrote: maybe you can find a threaded barb hose connector in the suitable size in a garden- or plumbers shop

Neyt time use a blade to cut the old hose throuugh before trying to remove it

yes! :oops: Live and learn!
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/8mm-Hose-Barb-x-M8...PHJ0rV7LnA

This is it, but how to reach into the tank to hold a nut firmly while tightening??
Actually, I could probably get a box-wrench in there.....

Wed Dec 05, 2018 8:42 am

I used a generic dorman one to replace the missing one from my van, fit fine over the trans near the back

Space looked tight in the factory spot with the engine the PO swapped in..

Wed Dec 05, 2018 11:38 am

valvecovergasket wrote: I used a generic dorman one to replace the missing one from my van, fit fine over the trans near the back

Space looked tight in the factory spot with the engine the PO swapped in..

Nice looking engine! Your battery looks pretty tall!
- - -
Yes I just barely managed to get my burb tank squeezed in there and spend a bunch of time getting new holes drilled - so I really want to make this thing work > and I do like being able to add coolant from the rear - although I really doubt I even would do that.

I am not sure how I am going to find such a fitting

I found some similar things in the compressor accessories dept. of the local home store... maybe I will just try to order something online.

Wed Dec 05, 2018 12:04 pm

Considering this is for the overflow tank, and not subject to pressure, you really don't need a brass fitting that requires a nut inside of the tank. Consider a barb-to-male pipe thread fitting and drill/tap the hole to accept.

Wed Dec 05, 2018 2:17 pm

I doubt there's enough meat there to take enough threads to seal an npt fitting... But maybe?

Otherwise I'd say try and find a plastic fitting, most hardware stores have them near the brass fittings, and some plastic JB weld to secure it. That way even if the npt side doesn't seal it'll be globbed together with the plastic weld and should hold.

Or just go get a universal one :P

Wed Dec 05, 2018 2:19 pm

riceye wrote: drill/tap the hole to accept.

Yeah I saw one of these at a store today... but do you think there is enough thickness to that plastic tank to get much of a thread tapped into it?
EDIT: just measured, it is 2mm thick... not sure if that is thick enough for a thread??

Wed Dec 05, 2018 2:33 pm

I don't believe there is sufficient wall thickness to tap dependable threads, esp. in such soft material. The least bit of overtightening of that fitting or a snagging of the hose will strip the threads and you'll have no end of leaks. They'll be low-pressure leaks but leaks nonetheless, and one day the expansion tank will begin sucking air into the system from a dry tank ...

Polyethylene is notoriously difficult to glue/seal. The best place for any such sealants or other goop is on the wet side anyway, and getting it in there is hardly any easier than installing a proper nut with rubber & flat washers. Sure, it'll be like building a ship in a bottle, but you're a skilled luthier and you've fixed far worse.

Wed Dec 05, 2018 2:44 pm

haha... I just ordered this one from the UK ($3.50) Barbed & Threaded Fittings 6mm x M8 x 1.0 Barbed Hose
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Barbed-Threaded-Fitting...100623.m-1

But I am wondering if it is the correct size? The ID of my hose is 8mm. So I was thinking that on this fitting the OD of the barbed part would be 6mm, and the threads would be M8. All good but what is this "1.0" they have written referring to??

EDIT: I don't think they have the right foto there. An M8 thread is a bit more than 8mm OD... and on this pic the thread and the barb part look the same OD. ...anyhow, I'll find a way to make it work somehow.

EDTI2: ...oh I think the 1.0 probably means 1 inch long. Because there is a sister fitting which is 4mm X M6 X 1.0

Wed Dec 05, 2018 3:19 pm

epowell wrote: just measured, it is 2mm thick... not sure if that is thick enough for a thread??

From the picture it appeared the broken bit was long enough to work with. 2mm is not enough. A fitting that sandwiches the tank with washers and a nut is a much better option.

Wed Dec 05, 2018 10:16 pm

epowell wrote: EDTI2: ...oh I think the 1.0 probably means 1 inch long. Because there is a sister fitting which is 4mm X M6 X 1.0
M6 x 1.0 means a 6mm Diameter screw with 1.0mm between threads. And it will have 4mm of those threads.

You know there's a thing called, "Google", right?