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Wed Jun 27, 2018 9:33 pm

We'll sold the svx motor and installed a '95 2.2l obd2. I finally got all the fuel lines hooked up and tried to start it. CRANK BUT NO START. The ECU works it activates the fuel pump when the key is tuned, I have spark at the coils, It stared for a short while with starting fluid. No codes stored with the obd2 scanner.

I don't smell raw fuel after cranking it over and over. There is pressurized fuel at the rail hose. One thing I don't know is what the smaller (third) hose next to the fuel in and return is for. I'll check tomorrow morning if fuel is flowing to the return line, maybe there's a vacuum valve I don't know about.

The donor was an automatic legacy, maybe I have to do something with the Park/Neutral wire to the ECU?

what's the rookie mistake here? Please help!

Wed Jun 27, 2018 10:46 pm

The smaller hose is evap line from the tank to the engine.
You said you have spark at the coils? You should have one cool pack and 4 HT leads to the plugs.
What ecm, harness, etc, are you using?

Wed Jun 27, 2018 11:31 pm

Yes it's one pack with 4 leads to the spark plugs. Sorry I made it sound confusing. The ECU is labeled
2D
22611 AB414
JA18000 RT8 4Y04

The harness is from the donor legacy I followed the pinouts from busaru http://busaru.com/attachments/article/143/1995%20Legacy%20Pinout.pdf

I may have made a mistake with wires to the injectors, maybe. I labeled and triple checked before cutting.

Could it be that the donor was automatic, What do I do with the park/neutral wire to the ECU?

Also I was looking through another thread, does pin 50 on the B84 connector to the ECU need to be grounded? to tell the ECU it's in a manual transmission? I want to double check that before attempting it.

Thu Jun 28, 2018 4:41 am

H6WESTY wrote: . . . Could it be that the donor was automatic, What do I do with the park/neutral wire to the ECU? . . .
Take it high or low, whatever it required as a slushbox to start.

Richie (near The Burgh)

Thu Jun 28, 2018 4:50 am

Was the engine running before the swap?. Connect the two green test connectors on the harness and turn the ignition key to ON. The fuel pump should cycle and fill your fuel lines. Then D/C the test connectors and try to start again.

Thu Jun 28, 2018 12:30 pm

yes the engine was running before the swap, but it sat for over a year after it was pulled out.

The fuel lines DO get filled up as it is. The harness didn't have the green test connectors (or they got cut a year ago) but the OBD connector works. Should I try to add the green test connectors from another legacy, I remember the wiring DIAGRAM showed those wires merging with the obd2 con.

the DIAGRAM/ PIN OUTS show "ON AT MODEL; SWITCH IS ON WHEN SHIFT IS IN "N" OR "P" POSITION"

Neutral position switch ON: 0V
OFF:5.0V+0.5V
That's why I have that wire disconnected 0 volts tells the ecu it's in park right?

*Terminal 50 on the ECU is an empty slot. That's AT/MT identification
the DIAGRAM/PINOUT reads "WHEN MEASURING VOLTAGE BETWEEN ECM AND BODY" (?WHAT BODY OF THE CAR?)

AT/MT identification (AT) 5v
(MT)0V

*but that slot is empty from factory*

I'm so close guys just need that final piece of the puzzle! Thank for the help!

Thu Jun 28, 2018 2:10 pm

Are the cam and crank sensors hooked up? Any codes? Cam and crank codes will result in a no start. I f you have spark and fuel at the rail,maybe you're not getting injector pulse.
Edit: my 02 2.5 was from an automatic and my neutral switch has always been disconnected.

Thu Jun 28, 2018 3:20 pm

I just checked the connectors at the Cam and Crank sensors. They are connected, If they were bad I probably wouldn't get a spark from the coil because the ECU would not know when to fire right?

No codes stored inn the ECU. as a test I disconnected the Mass air flow sensor and cranked it, the ECU did store a code for the Mass Air Flow Sensor. no codes stored under normal conditions.

How do I test the Injectors? or Pulse?

There is gasoline flow in back into the tank from the return line.
It runs (kinda good) with a nice shot of starting fluid.

So I guess I'll retrace the injector wires.
There is +power to all the yellow connectors to all 4 Injectors with the key on.
How do I test for pulse?

I'm going through the diagrams and wires...

Thu Jun 28, 2018 4:29 pm

Definitely sounds like you have a problem in the harness causing the injectors not to fire. As far as your other questions, I have the same ECU from the same year and pin 50 IS supposed to be grounded for a manual but it wont cause it to not start. The green test wires should not be plugged into each other. I just taped them off. your neutral position switch wire doesn't need to be connected to anything. It will throw a code every once in a while but it wont affect driveability or running. You do need to have a VSS or it will randomly die at stop lights and generally not perform as well as it would with it.

Thu Jun 28, 2018 4:44 pm

Oh good tip about the VSS I was going to leave that for later and Use a speedometer app on an old Iphone.

I was thinking of getting the BUSARU vss sensor
http://busaru.com/images/IMG_4164.JPG

Thu Jun 28, 2018 5:49 pm

Are your plugs dry? If you have spark,fuel and compression it should fire.I rented a noid light set to check for injector pulse. You have battery + and ignition + to the fuel pump relay if that's working. What about the ignition relay? Is the ECU getting power? Check that you haven't blown a fuse. Are your plug wires crossed? Is the engine grounded? One thing about having the green test connectors, I have found that they come in handy for diagnosis when I've had 3 or 4 no starts in the past 3 years.

Thu Jun 28, 2018 5:51 pm

Ok I just came back from the Junk Yard, Lucky there was a '95 legacy. The ECU was gone, But I got the Mass Air Flow sensor and a few other sensors.

IT RAN ON IT'S OWN WITH THE JUNK YARD MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR! BUT IT WOULDN'T IDLE ON IT'S OWN I HAD TO KEEP FEATHERING THE GAS PEDAL. But that's great progress the engine RAN!

Now I'll look into the IAC valve for the cut-off at idle issue. Please I welcome any further suggestions.

Fri Jun 29, 2018 7:25 pm

Ok the IAC hose was ripped at the bottom near the manifold. It runs fine now, I just have to finalize and loom the wires, and order the VSS sensor.

My thanks to all of you.

Fri Jun 29, 2018 7:34 pm

I had a fuel pump problem... I had reversed the positive and negative wires, it made a sound that I thought meant it was working, but it was trying to push vas back to the tank. Swapped them and it started right up!