TheSamba.com :: View topic - Broke down in Longview WA. (engine rebuild in progress)

Thu Jul 12, 2018 10:42 am

So work brought me to Seattle last night. I headed up and stayed with Stu at his parents farm. Without speaking for the affected parties I can recap what I saw...

First off, the traveling couple are very nice, and have put 20k+ on the bus the last few months. While he didn’t deny some deferred maintenance, it has been a great platform for them, and they seem to mostly be traveling at a very easy pace. What they may lack in Type4 specifics, he seems to more than make up for in other engine building and electrical knowledge. This isn’t the crash and burn hipster-millennials we sometimes assume on these type of rescue threads.

Their is no EGR hooked up on the bad motor, the valve is disconnected from the throttle body and the pipe is pinched off. The blown Tstat isn’t hooked up to anything, I told him to really find a set of flaps at the very least, but i guess it still proves these are more robust than lore assumes.... not at all promoting that. His Cold start valve had a wiggle at the pinch point of the metal plastic, I suggested that one be replaced or omitted all together (for now) from the fuel ring. As that was where my fire happened years ago. I didn’t get to see any of the other FI parts or hoses, but I assume fuel lines will be redone. Stu has lots of spare components hopefully they can pick from if needed...

His exhaust was stock afterburner pipes, to a duel exhaust type muffler. It was removed as 1 entire unit. The F-pipes, afterburners and boxes looked to be in very nice shape and all joints seemed sealed. They had both discussed changing out the muffler to an extractor type, but overall the exhaust looked fine.

CV boots looked good, from what I remember, so don’t know if they will get repacked while the motor is out, but hopefully a torque check at least.

He had very clean and heavy duty wiring for his battery and solar setups. The engine bay looked very nice.

According to him and Stu they should get back the case and a crank this weekend and be able to put together the short block, heads are due in next week. Yes they are building it on site. I don’t have any more specifics to the build details..
If anyone has an extra Bug Me rebuild video, they could use that, per Stu.

They did mention staying local for a bit for the break in too.

All the keyboard commandos can stand down, they are putting serious mileage on a vintage VW.... shit happened, no fault needed, no excuses made, and they are getting it back on par with good intent, and learning from it.

Plus I learned to drive a tractor last night. Yellow plane, Yellow Tractor! Stu and his family have a beautiful property and wonderful hospitality as well! Stu knows how to make a bonfire!

Thu Jul 12, 2018 2:34 pm

So nice to see all the help these folks are getting from you guys. :D

Thu Jul 12, 2018 9:56 pm

Stu you should get a Tom Wilson coming.
Best money I ever spent on a manual.

How to Rebuild Your Volkswagen air-Cooled Engine (All models, 1961 and up)
https://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Volkswagen-air-Cooled-Engine-models/dp/0895862255

Good luck
Tcash

Fri Jul 13, 2018 12:05 am

Tcash wrote: Stu you should get a Tom Wilson coming.
Best money I ever spent
:shock:

:wink: :lol:

Fri Jul 13, 2018 2:34 am

+1000 karmic points, tcash

Fri Jul 13, 2018 4:36 am

Xevin wrote: Tcash wrote: Stu you should get a Tom Wilson coming.
Best money I ever spent
:shock:

:wink: :lol:

Signature line worthy right there! :lol: :lol:

Fri Jul 13, 2018 9:18 am

Quote: I told him to really find a set of flaps at the very least,

without reading all pages in this post again, - if this means that there are no flaps that is a huge no-no on a T4 engine. The flap on the oil cooler side acts as a diverter - where part of the air goes to the cylinders/heads, and part to the oil cooler. If none is there the oil temps will get excessive and things like that rod bearing problem will occur.

Fri Jul 13, 2018 10:33 am

Ive got the type 4 rebuild bugme video i can send it out if you promise to send it back

Fri Jul 13, 2018 11:42 am

Yikes! No cooling flaps?

I’ve been out in the brush and missed most of this thread. I’m only 50 miles from Longview. It’s my home town. Never go there anymore tho. Except going through to Avery’s. Good luck OP.

Fri Jul 13, 2018 2:55 pm

Stu, A little info to help you out.

Type 4 Rebuild
http://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=145853

Type 4 Engine Assembly youtube
1. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vnnGgu-715I
2. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZxczyWU-E7w&list=PLQhxBQQ3P0K7HV2rrOUKazZWQ6YM_MmmO
3. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cc3Qefc5ItE
4. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oCfz5Sy16H0

Type 4 thermostat and flaps
Type 4 Thermostat Flaps youtube
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZYKoPHnpyuo

Air non return,Flap,Flaps,Fan Shroud,Heater,021119263A,264A

Sample clips from: Bug Me Video -Volume 8 Type 4 Engine Rebuild (VW Bus, 914 Porsche)
https://youtu.be/-OOwrsOmXJc?list=PLplY5KGlgpZYD8_0bTTu5m7VrhWKEQQ9E

75-78 Type 4 Engine Tin

awesome powdercoat type iv engine tin install part 1-6
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CB4soH8Wolk&list=PL5l9C9G7d1xnQvVwQeFtSE7DZuJfF_sOJ

Exhaust System Bay Window ID

Type IV 4 Exhaust Install

Fri Jul 13, 2018 3:27 pm

Tcash wrote: Stu, A little info to help you out.

Type 4 Rebuild
http://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=145853

Type 4 Engine Assembly youtube
1. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vnnGgu-715I
2. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZxczyWU-E7w&list=PLQhxBQQ3P0K7HV2rrOUKazZWQ6YM_MmmO
3. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cc3Qefc5ItE
4. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oCfz5Sy16H0

Type 4 thermostat and flaps
Type 4 Thermostat Flaps youtube
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZYKoPHnpyuo

Air non return,Flap,Flaps,Fan Shroud,Heater,021119263A,264A

Sample clips from: Bug Me Video -Volume 8 Type 4 Engine Rebuild (VW Bus, 914 Porsche)
https://youtu.be/-OOwrsOmXJc?list=PLplY5KGlgpZYD8_0bTTu5m7VrhWKEQQ9E

75-78 Type 4 Engine Tin

awesome powdercoat type iv engine tin install part 1-6
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CB4soH8Wolk&list=PL5l9C9G7d1xnQvVwQeFtSE7DZuJfF_sOJ

Exhaust System Bay Window ID

Type IV 4 Exhaust Install

Your the best tcash! I wasn’t looking forward to hunting for minor details...thanks!

Dustin and Jamie left around noon in one of my parents cars to get the parts from Jerry. Should have a juicy picture heavy update for you soon.

Or I’ll get lazy and only post one pic.. final install...:lol:

Later guys!

Fri Jul 13, 2018 4:29 pm

Hey Stu,
Here is the torque spec page we talked about too...

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=665080

Look forward to the pics

Fri Jul 13, 2018 8:58 pm

Digging in in the morning...

Fri Jul 13, 2018 9:14 pm

mmmmm...
bits & pieces bits & pieces!
your next post better not be a running engine with an open decklid, damn you!

Fri Jul 13, 2018 11:01 pm

that case looks glass beaded. If so please be sure that all the galleries are well flushed out with hot water and soap, a pressure washer then compressed air.

Fri Jul 13, 2018 11:22 pm

SGKent wrote: that case looks glass beaded. If so please be sure that all the galleries are well flushed out with hot water and soap, a pressure washer then compressed air.

^^^X2^^^

If that case did indeed get blasted, make sure the galley plugs get pulled.
The machinist did the drill/tap for threaded plugs?

It might just be the lighting that makes the case look like it got blasted..

Fri Jul 13, 2018 11:31 pm

Without having time to send the injectors out for a cleaning,
Make sure to at least do a live ‘spray test’ to be sure they are doing like they are supposed to.

Don’t want to fry the rebuild with an injector or two pissing like an old man..

Many diesel truck places are around that do injectors, BTW..
There are a bunch of them in my local area.
You might get teased a bit about how small your parts are,
But semi trucks and the like get their injectors serviced all the time.
What with the cost of fuel and the amount those guys burn,
It pays them to have them done.

Fri Jul 13, 2018 11:46 pm

Stu if you don't have a dial gauge to check the end play.
Put the main bearing on the crank, w/shims.
Bolt the flywheel on and toque to 50 ft/lbs, no need to go to 65 for checking end play.
Now you can use a feeler gauge to measure (Flywheel end play. .003"-.005")

Now that you have the crank bolted to the flywheel.
Stand the crank up on the flywheel to hang the rods. (Rod nuts 24 ft/lbs)

Remove the flywheel
Set the Crank with #1-#4 bearings and the Cam with bearings in the left case half and check (Cam gear backlash. .000"-.002")
No noticeable backlash, Tom Wilson trick: rotate the crankshaft counter clockwise viewed from the fan pulley side. If it kicks the cam out, the backlash is too tight. Get a smaller cam gear.

Bolt the oil pump up to the left case half and check interference between the oil pump and the cam gear bolts.

Make sure the oil pump idler gear is staked in place.

Its up to you guys to clean the pistons and cylinders. All parts for that matter. In a bucket with some of moms laundry detergent or Dawn and a bottle or nail brush. Clean the barrels making sure to get all the grinding stone dust out of the honing grooves. Test for cleanliness with a white paper towel. If any dust remains, clean again until the towel comes out clean.

After you align the cam and crank timing marks. I like to pull #1 up to TDC with both int & exh cam lobes on there heels. TDC compression stroke, and drop the dist in. That way if you drop the washer in you don't have to pull the case apart to get it out.

Don't forget the (Cam plug), the (Two nuts) in the flywheel end, the (Bolt in the center of the case) between the two lifter bores and the (Plastic vibration dampers) on the case through bolts. When bolting the case halves together.

Put a rag over the case spigots when installing the piston pin C-clips.
Put the clip on a 6" 3/8" extension, then stick the extension in the piston pin. Now install the C-clip. That way if it pops off, it does not go flying into the land of the lost.

Good luck
Until tomorrow
Tcash

Fri Jul 13, 2018 11:48 pm

Wasted youth wrote:
not sure how you can ascertain that the donor thermostat is bad.

If the thermostat is fully extended into the ‘full cool’ position,
Like in the picture,
But the motor is cold,
The t-stat is shot.

Not to say that it can’t be re-done.
It might still be OK for a core at a place like Awesome Powdercoat that rebuilds ‘em.

If our OP is pressed for time to get going, a good t-stat might be hard to find in time.
Good thermostats are hard to get on the best of days..

Without running a t-stat, there are some who subscribe to the ‘full cool’ theory,
That says if the flap return spring is 40+ years old and weak,
It might not seat clear home when the fan and vehicle are at speed.
(Drive down the highway with your hatch open and look back there if you don’t believe),
Therefore,
If you aren’t going to run a t-stat, you are better off screwing the flaps down into the ‘full cool’ position, to make sure you get 100% cooling.

Sat Jul 14, 2018 6:07 am

Stu you guys up yet? Its 6am daylights a wasting!
:sleeping:

:popcorn:
Tcash