TheSamba.com :: View topic - tie-rod/drag-link replacement -- nylon locking nuts?

Sat Jul 07, 2018 9:17 am

Hi guys,

I received replacement tie rod ends (IAP, rock auto), and a drag link (FEBI, bus depot).

None of them have castle nuts/cotter pins. They're all nylon locking nuts.

Is it safe to rely on a nylon locking nut for these parts?

Thanks!

Sat Jul 07, 2018 10:39 am

Once you tighten the nuts propsrly the joints usually stay together. If a Nyloc loosens it only moves a bit down the thread but still remains stiff.

if you have ever had a nyloc nut come loose in an inacessible corner it is a real challenge to stop it just spinning but remaining attached to the bolt.

If a cotter pin falls out the castle nut can spin easily all the way off a clean hread. Which is less safe.

Sat Jul 07, 2018 11:14 am

Use high strength Loctite and have no more worries. Actually there is little chance of any nut ever coming loose in this application if the nut is properly tightened to start with. A nut will only come loose if there is some kind of motion in the joint and you should ever get motion if you torque the nut down correctly.

Sat Jul 07, 2018 3:19 pm

thanks so much for replies... definitely settles my mind.

& yes, torqued to 22 ft/lbs... Seems low torque, but that's what I see as listed...

Sat Jul 07, 2018 10:38 pm

Sat Jul 07, 2018 10:48 pm

Castle nuts went away about the same time as POTS telephone lines and dial up. You can spend an hour and drill the top of the nut and stud then safety wire it if it concerns you.

Sat Jul 07, 2018 10:51 pm

That’s pretty much what I was thinking. Technology surpasses the cotter pin days. Reminding me of people insisting on straight 30W oil. Multi grade hadn’t been in use back then.

Sun Jul 08, 2018 8:14 am

While a nylock nut is not an issue with bus ball joints...they are massive and have a LOT of turning pressure and you can usually zap a nylock nut off of there......nylock or plastic self locking nuts are nowhere near...."improved" or modern technology for locknuts.

"Castle" nuts are still used and manufactured at just as high of a volume across many industries....as they ever were. And they are still easy to get......and proper "stainless steel" cotter pins are just as cheap as they ever were.....

I do not use nylocks on ANY rotating or taper joints under a car (i.e. idler arm, tie rod ends struts or center links).....because if you have ever had to remove a nylock on a rotating joint like a tie rod or centerlink for some repair task.....in a location where you cannot get an impact or air ratchet on it due to space.....and it sits there and spins for days once the taper is cracked loose.....you would stay with pinned nuts as well.

There is only one reason why many replacement part mfgs have gone to nylock or distortion lock nuts (which damage the threads on anything above grade 5)......and that's because they are CHEAP.....not better.

Also.... actual "nylon"....based insert nuts are rare unless you order them. And they are NOT cheap. About 90% of what is commonly available...with the clearish/translucent material....are polypropylene or UHMW. Their max temp range for usage is in the 180° F range.
The true nylon insert nuts....used in Mil spec and stainless variations has a max temp range of 220°-250°F. ...and they are expensive. Not normally used on cheap over the counter replacement parts.

The split top/spreader style lock nuts call flex top nuts.....are far superior to nylock nuts.

So while the nylock style nut is perfectly safe to use for the purpose of the question in tjis thread....lets not get carried away in stating that they are modern and superior.

I see far too much heavy and transportation equipmemt mfg...where nylock nuts are simply not allowed because they are actually inferior across a wide range of conditions.
When a pinned nut or safetly wire is not practical or cost effective....but where the nut is required to be replaced every maintenance cycle.....the flex top and distortion type nuts in mil-spec are far more widely used on critical components.

Suffice to say that the "castle" nut is still widley manufactured and used. I just bought a bag of class 10.9, zinc plated castle nuts with 12mm threads a couple of months ago for use on struts and suspension components. Not a problem to get. Ray

Sun Jul 08, 2018 10:47 am

the bus depot ones have an allen head built into the bottom so if they do strip or whatever, you just do this:

helps with install too

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