TheSamba.com Forums
 
  View original topic: How to fix this rust spot more solidly...? Page: Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9  Next
ZsZ Thu Apr 18, 2019 1:33 pm

I think thats an Urethane glue like Sikaflex
Similar to the ones used bonding fiberglass roofs and windscreens

epowell Thu Apr 18, 2019 1:43 pm

ZsZ wrote: I think thats an Urethane glue like Sikaflex
Similar to the ones used bonding fiberglass roofs and windscreens

Yes Polyurethane...
...is that good news? Do you think strong enough to hold without welding?? >>> probably not, eh?
But I wonder if strong enough to hold at least not to fall off to get me thru Easter day trips??


ZsZ Thu Apr 18, 2019 11:33 pm

It can be strong, but remain flexible. Not the best for panels, better on trims/windows as on the pics
I think it will be good for a season, but will be hard to remove to use good product

epowell Fri Apr 19, 2019 12:33 am

ZsZ wrote: It can be strong, but remain flexible. Not the best for panels, better on trims/windows as on the pics
I think it will be good for a season, but will be hard to remove to use good product

For sure I will have to do some welding. In the worst case I can cut a slightly larger hole and do it again with a fresh panel.

epowell Fri Apr 19, 2019 1:18 am

Yeah it is a pity I didn't just do this now with the proper glue... oh well "live and learn"...
...but anyway it is definitely now glued on there very strongly. This stuff for sure is a kind of 'glue' > it's not just 'caulk'.

Another regret is that I didn't take a bit more time to make sure the butt joint would result in a smooth/level transition to the panel... as it is now there is a step sometimes as much as maybe 2mm.

I think I will take some time and first practice welding this ultra thin stuff - try it out first and if I can not weld then I will maybe use a bit of fiberglass to strengthen it up - rather than welding.





epowell Tue Aug 27, 2019 5:56 am

While doing CAVITY WAX on my frame... I discovered that the OTHER rear jacking point is beginning to rust also...
...does anyone have any suggestions for this? Should I just start grinding off the rust > post more pics... then figure out what to do?

It is nowhere near as bad as the other side was, but still there are a couple of small holes.



Alaskaberrys Tue Aug 27, 2019 10:22 am

Bummer. I can relate all too well, a depressing sight finding “another” rust area to dive into....

I’d open it up and Search and Destroy! (....the rust that is :wink: )

Side note, I had fluid filmed a bit of my frame before I found the extent of my rust issues and I does smoke up a bit when welding around it (didn’t seem to mess with the weld), but as you might be using glue in your repairs I’d not fluid film that area till after repair. It is tenacious and wicks a fair distance.

That said, A few areas that had fluid film sweeping through that I needed to re-paint I hit it with alcohol to clean up then acetone just before painting. Hasn’t seemed to mess with the paint - three months after at this point.

epowell Tue Aug 27, 2019 12:34 pm

Today I also found another rust area in the front jacking point and to dug into it... finally I decided that I will do it properly and cut out enough of the outer skin to be able to fully deal with all the rust inside...

My question is this: if I cut out all this section of outerskin, shown in red on the foto, will this compromise strength too much as to affect jacking at that point, and driving? I leave for Canada in a few days so my plan is just to cut open the hole, treat the rust, paint it > then weld the patch in October when I return to Czech.


Other fotos of this area:



epowell Tue Aug 27, 2019 12:51 pm

Maybe safer just to leave it all alone until I get back 6 weeks from now? If I just put rust converter on it and leave it alone?? ...or better to cut it open and paint it now??

jlrftype7 Tue Aug 27, 2019 3:32 pm

epowell wrote: Maybe safer just to leave it all alone until I get back 6 weeks from now? If I just put rust converter on it and leave it alone?? ...or better to cut it open and paint it now?? . Rust converter for now, you won’t be rushed to fix it before the trip.
And no need to fluid film until you’re really ready, so no possible contamination to affect paint poorly.

epowell Thu Aug 29, 2019 9:21 am

Yep, I am just going to leave the heavy rust repairs until I get back from Canada in October ___> I'll just say one thing that I know you've all already heard a millions times, but when it comes to safety we can never hear this stuff enough.
> if you are about to do this kind of work, REMEMBER that you health and safety must come first, and this means proper eye protection and proper respirators. Last year I did some rust work with eye protection and got tons of metal in my eye and had to go to hospital > NOT FUN! I didn't use the eye protection because with my respirator on my eye goggles fogged up. :oops:
So this year (couple of days ago) I made sure I used eye protection (although I still got lots of dust and crap in my eyes anyway!) - so instead of using a respirator and fogging up my goggles, I didn't use a respirator... MAN, there is something about this fine metal and rust dust that must go right into the brain and perhaps even cross the blood/brain barrier because I was then wiped out for 2 full days!!!

This is a really good lesson for me right now because on my upcoming trip to Vancouver I will be spending at least 2 weeks only on rust!! [you know, trying to get a cheaply bought B.C. van into rust-free condition.... good luck!]
So I will have to take extra extra precautions with eyes and lungs.

Sorry for the rant, but it might help someone...

mikemtnbike Thu Aug 29, 2019 10:53 am

ed I've been really happy with these goggles and a 3m respirator, no substantial fogging, very affordable.

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DPG82-11-DPG82-11CTR...mp;hvadid={creative}&hvpos={adposition}&hvnetw=o&hvrand={random}&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl={devicemodel}&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583932699494659&psc=1

epowell Thu Aug 29, 2019 11:28 am

mikemtnbike wrote: ed I've been really happy with these goggles and a 3m respirator, no substantial fogging, very affordable.

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DPG82-11-DPG82-11CTR...mp;hvadid={creative}&hvpos={adposition}&hvnetw=o&hvrand={random}&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl={devicemodel}&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583932699494659&psc=1

Thanks! I need to get some of these ASAP... looks like nothing can get to your eyes with those.

Chugach Mon Sep 16, 2019 2:56 pm


epowell Sat Sep 28, 2019 9:26 am

Chugach wrote: This is an amazing video!

epowell Sat Oct 19, 2019 7:48 am

OK, I finally got around to 'opening up' the OTHER SIDE [rear jacking point rust spot]...
It is nowhere near as bad as the 1st side, but still the rust has fully eaten thru the outer skin, about 6" of the 2nd skin, and the INNER MAIN WALL is infected with rust [looks like surface rust].
What I think is that the INNER WALL can have the rust removed, and the metal treated. >>> but the 2nd skin will need to have some new metal welded in. Then finally the outer skin can have a bit of new panel glued on.

The trick will be to figure out how to remove the absolute minimum of good metal in order to:
1) access the INNER WALL in order to grind off all the rust there.
2) have enough space to weld in a section of 2nd skin

...other than that I guess the job will be rather straight forward.

I'll remove the rear wheel and get that corner on blocks.
Then begin cutting slowly slowly until I feel I have just taken the minimum out to have enough space to do all the necessary work.

I don't think that the damage is so great that I will not be able to drive a bit once all the cutting is done - but for sure best to block off enough time to get the whole job done all at once (2 or 3 day job max).

Any suggestions very welcome.









epowell Mon Oct 21, 2019 5:44 am

Here we go again.... ...it always bugs me to have to cut away good healthy metal > especially that outer skin which is much thicker than the cheap panel material I will replace it with.

But what to do - the main purpose of this is to get all the rust out, and then re-support all weakened areas.

Seems I have a bit more cutting to do in order to create enough space to grind the rust and weld the metal... but I am trying to leave as much alone as possible >>> WOW we are having hot weather for late October!











epowell Mon Oct 21, 2019 10:27 am

Made some little paper templates of the metal pieces I will weld in tomorrow.





Then I painted the whole area - also the front drivers' side rusted area (this area won't require any welding. I'm just going to glue on some patch panels.



epowell Tue Oct 22, 2019 6:38 am


jlrftype7 Tue Oct 22, 2019 7:01 am

You painted before you welded? Did I misunderstand?
Is the Paint a Weld Through Primer? Didn't seem like it... :?



Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group