TheSamba.com :: View topic - Propane Tank Vent Valve replacement part?

Fri Dec 28, 2018 2:08 pm

Hey all. I'm about to do a cleanup on my Westy's propane tank. My tank is off the van but isn't apart yet and really doesn't seem to leak. I was just going to do this to media blast, paint and get away from the problematic auto fill setup.

I've referenced the various threads on replacement fill and vent valves. The part #s given for the vent valve, 3165SC, V20058, AR-171603, don't seem to be available any more.

Is there another solution that anyone has come up with? I don't want to tear apart my tank if I can't replace the parts.

Thanks all!

Quote:
Manchester Tank Outage Valve V20058
PRODUCT CODE: AR-171603 $4.99

The vent valve is the 3165SC with the knurled knob.

Fri Dec 28, 2018 2:33 pm

I do not know what year Westy you have - early ones (e.g. my 84) used an Auto-Stop device. If that is yours you might look at this:

http://www.classbforum.com/forums/f5/auto-stop-valve-propane-1746.html

I know more than what you see there - I replaced the tank and all attachments with a new one from GoWesty.

Fri Dec 28, 2018 2:58 pm

Ahwahnee wrote: I do not know what year Westy you have - early ones (e.g. my 84) used an Auto-Stop device. If that is yours you might look at this:

http://www.classbforum.com/forums/f5/auto-stop-valve-propane-1746.html

I know more than what you see there - I replaced the tank and all attachments with a new one from GoWesty.

Sorry, it's an '87.

https://centuryfuelproducts.com/3165cp looks like it'll do the trick.

Thank you for your help!

Fri Dec 28, 2018 3:05 pm

a2wolfsburggli wrote:

Sorry, it's an '87.

https://centuryfuelproducts.com/3165cp looks like it'll do the trick.

Thank you for your help!
That's the part I used on my '85 Westy.

Fri Dec 28, 2018 4:20 pm

Between auto-stop valves that may or may not be installed, and that may or may not work if/when they are, and employees routinely filling propane with little or no training, in my view this entire mess is the riskiest part of ownership by far.

Safest is using until entirely empty, and refilling with *exactly* 2.5 gallons and not one ounce more.

Fri Dec 28, 2018 6:28 pm

I've had many Westy tanks filled, dozens of times including in Mexico and Canada. It isn't that hard. Hook up the filler hose, open the small bleeder valve, pump in propane until the bleeder stops hissing and starts to spit. Go to a place where it is an every day thing.

The mid 80s Autostop valves are a disaster waiting to happen. Replace them or replace the tank. Period.

Mark

Fri Mar 20, 2020 7:49 am

I've seen a bunch of propane tank valve or replacement posts here and on a couple of FB pages. Figured I'd update this post with a how to.

All in with parts, paint, primer, rust converter and wire brush attachments for the drill, I think this project was about $60 and a weekend. Maybe a total of 4-5 hrs of labor. Most of that is in the wire brushing and sanding.

If you're only replacing the problematic auto fill system without paint or regulator this is literally a $20 project that can be done on the van.

Will this paint job look pretty like a powder coated one for 10 years? No...but I didn't really care about that. I care about having a mechanically sound, non leaking tank refurb for a reasonable DIY cost.

Bleeder Valve:
https://centuryfuelproducts.com/3165cp

Fill Valve:
https://centuryfuelproducts.com/rego-7647sc-filler-valve

Make sure you use liquid fuel rates PTFE Thread tape. You can get it at any hardware store or here:
https://www.amazon.com/Mill-Rose-70885-Monster-Sealant-1429-Inches/dp/B009YA09D0

If you need a new regulator, you can get them from several Vanagon / Westfalia specific vendors. I recommend BusDepot.com over GoWesty
https://www.busdepot.com/253070604

Refurbish is a pretty easy job once you get past the potential explosion factor. :lol:

Remove then empty your tank by what ever means you feel is safe. I've heard others just letting their stove burners run till empty. I removed mine and hooked it up to a propane garage heater I have and let it burn while I did a couple other projects.

Disassemble and let it breath overnight. It took a breaker bar and then some to get the valves out. (See example pic below.)

Plug the valve holes and sand, grind, wire brush it till your happy. I didn't remove 100% of the rust. Wash with isopropyl alcohol to get rid of dust etc.

Then I used a brush on rust converter product and coated the tank with about 3 applications. Let dry overnight.

Used a self etching spray on primer next. 3-4 coats. Let dry overnight again. (Grey in the pic below.)

Then used a standard farm implement spray on paint. (White in the pic below.)

After that I blew out the tank with compressed air just in case I got any particles in there. Put on the old regulator with new tape. I lightly cleaned up the regulator too as it's mostly made of brass.

Installed the new fill and purge valves with tape sealer and tightened them down. I don't have torque specs so don't ask. They're tight...real tight. Like pipe wrench tight.

Fri Mar 20, 2020 10:51 am

You'll need to purge that tank again since you introduced air.

Also, toss the antiquated original regulator - they all fail sooner or later. Replace with a Marshall MEGR-295.

Fri Mar 20, 2020 11:25 am

westyventures wrote: You'll need to purge that tank again since you introduced air.

Also, toss the antiquated original regulator - they all fail sooner or later. Replace with a Marshall MEGR-295.

Been running it for a full year and haven't had a single problem. It'll get refilled here in a month or so.

Thanks for the Reg. part #. If mine acts up I'll use that one.

Fri Mar 20, 2020 11:50 am

Some appliances are affected by a lean mixture when air is introduced, some aren't. I though the post was what you were doing 'today'. After a fill or two the air is gone through normal use. The original regulators all had a failure where the diaphragm ruptured and would leak propane out the vent. Marshall had a no-cost replacement program for awhile, the identical replacements also failed. :(

Fri Apr 03, 2020 10:46 am

Dumb question - why do these tanks need purging?

If the top vent is open during filling, doesnt the air get displaced automatically?

Fri Apr 03, 2020 11:10 am

https://www.propanetankstore.com/blog/why-does-my-new-propane-tank-need-to-be-purged/

http://home.earthlink.net/~derekgore/rvroadiervfulltimingwhatisitreallylike/id45.html

Sun May 31, 2020 11:09 am

Going to attempt this soon, does anyone know which fittings on a vanagon are reverse threaded?

Sun May 31, 2020 12:56 pm

baltik wrote: Going to attempt this soon, does anyone know which fittings on a vanagon are reverse threaded?

Only the valve opening where the regulator screws in.

Tue Mar 09, 2021 8:00 am

baltik wrote: Dumb question - why do these tanks need purging?

If the top vent is open during filling, doesnt the air get displaced automatically?
YES

Karl, your quote is for new 20# BBQ bottles that are filled as a sealed vessel.
the refiller CAN use the little screw in the side to vent while it fills. but many/most don't anymore. but that's besides the point.. a 20# is NOT reflective to the westy tanks.
westyventures wrote: https://www.propanetankstore.com/blog/why-does-my-new-propane-tank-need-to-be-purged/

http://home.earthlink.net/~derekgore/rvroadiervfulltimingwhatisitreallylike/id45.html

Tue Mar 09, 2021 10:35 am

danfromsyr wrote:

Karl, your quote is for new 20# BBQ bottles that are filled as a sealed vessel.
the refiller CAN use the little screw in the side to vent while it fills. but many/most don't anymore. but that's besides the point.. a 20# is NOT reflective to the westy tanks.
westyventures wrote: https://www.propanetankstore.com/blog/why-does-my-new-propane-tank-need-to-be-purged/

WTH are you going on about? ALL non vacuum-purged tanks MUST be purged, there has been NO change in that process!

Tue Mar 09, 2021 1:07 pm

Left hand threads, reversed as you called them, are clearly marked on the hex points with a notch (like someone has taken a couple of strokes with a hack saw), this is a universal marking.

Thu Mar 11, 2021 7:55 pm

Good thread. I might be restoring a tank in the near future and need to learn a bunch before then.

Tue Jul 20, 2021 3:06 pm

just saw this debate between danfromsyr and westyventures about the need to purge propane tanks...wanted to throw in some speculation. (speculation is always swell when we're dealing with explosive mixtures.)

these westy tanks are filled with the overflow/vent screw open, until liquid propane starts spitting out of the vent. liquid propane boils at room temperature and atmospheric pressure into propane gas at the ratio of 270x the volume of liquid. the first propane to hit the tank will boil into gas and start shoving any air in the tank out the overflow vent. at that ratio it's hard to see how any air in the tank could possibly remain for any amount of time...especially once the tank is filled to 80%, and the filling/partial boiling off has been going on for a couple of minutes at 270x.

only speculation, not advice of any kind.

curious if anyone knows for sure if tanks filled with open vents actually do need to be purged. not 'legally' need to, but physically/safely need to.

Thu Sep 30, 2021 2:22 pm

iiigoiii wrote: just saw this debate between danfromsyr and westyventures about the need to purge propane tanks...wanted to throw in some speculation. (speculation is always swell when we're dealing with explosive mixtures.)

these westy tanks are filled with the overflow/vent screw open, until liquid propane starts spitting out of the vent. liquid propane boils at room temperature and atmospheric pressure into propane gas at the ratio of 270x the volume of liquid. the first propane to hit the tank will boil into gas and start shoving any air in the tank out the overflow vent. at that ratio it's hard to see how any air in the tank could possibly remain for any amount of time...especially once the tank is filled to 80%, and the filling/partial boiling off has been going on for a couple of minutes at 270x.

only speculation, not advice of any kind.

curious if anyone knows for sure if tanks filled with open vents actually do need to be purged. not 'legally' need to, but physically/safely need to.

No body on here "knows for sure." They're all speculating.

I'll say that after I refirb'd this tank. I went to the propane place and they filled it up for the first time. It spit propane out the 80% valve like it's suppose to. We closed it up and I used it for 3 years straight with zero issues including 1 refill at year 2.