| Blair_Francis |
Mon Jan 07, 2019 6:33 pm |
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Hey all,
So I've tried to find this problem in the forum already, but it always seems to be the reverse of my issue. When I try to lock my van with either the key or manually when inside the van, the 3 motors lock the van but instantly unlock again! There seems to be no way to actually lock the van now! Any suggestions on where to start?
Thanks! |
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| kourt |
Mon Jan 07, 2019 6:40 pm |
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I know this is a Captain Obvious reply, but did you make sure you haven't closed your door on a seat belt? When I do that, my locks behave as you describe. Any irregularity in the door closing can cause the power locks to fail as you describe. It is a feedback mechanism.
kourt |
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| elizer |
Mon Jan 07, 2019 6:46 pm |
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the wire to the actuator probably finally split in the boot between the door and the body. You can find out which door or hatch by taking off the cards and disconnecting on door and trying to lock the other.
This happened to me but maybe im wrong. |
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| jmranger |
Mon Jan 07, 2019 9:55 pm |
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I’d start here:
https://www.gowesty.com/tech-article-details.php?id=46 |
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| wesitarz |
Mon Jan 07, 2019 11:32 pm |
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jmranger wrote: I’d start here:
https://www.gowesty.com/tech-article-details.php?id=46
One of the front door master actuators might have a broken/weak spring for the up/down contact copper bar, so there is continuous power to the unlock wire. My guess would be the driver's side since it is used most often. |
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| Team WorldTour |
Tue Jan 08, 2019 1:59 am |
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| Bust out the multimeter! Time to go on the hunt for a short! |
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| elizer |
Tue Jan 08, 2019 8:11 am |
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Pop the door cards off
Disconnect 1 actuator.
Try to lock the other door.
If the door and hatch lock fine then you found the side that has the problem (disconnected side).
Swap out the actuator from each side, connect both, and try to lock the "bad" side again.
If it still does the unlock thing then there is a short (most likely in the boot between the door and the body).
If it does lock than it is the actuator.
VC sells the eurovan actuators with vanagon harness and they also sell the wiring harness from the actuator to the central locky thingy. |
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| Timwhy |
Tue Jan 08, 2019 1:14 pm |
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Broken Yellow wire in the door sheath
Broken White wire above and behind the fuse panel.
Both wire happen to break one after the other on the drivers side. |
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| elizer |
Tue Jan 08, 2019 3:09 pm |
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| Mine was the driver side as well. I guess its just opened and closed more often. |
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| 0to60in6min |
Tue Jan 08, 2019 3:57 pm |
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inside the actuator is like this
the copper disk rotates to act as the ON/OFF switch position, the little plate acts as the contact point... either the disk get dirty/corroded or the plate fails to make the contact because of the week tiny spring under it. |
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| Timwhy |
Tue Jan 08, 2019 4:39 pm |
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0to60in6min wrote: inside the actuator is like this
the copper disk rotates to act as the ON/OFF switch position, the little plate acts as the contact point... either the disk get dirty/corroded or the plate fails to make the contact because of the week tiny spring under it.
In addition to the broken wires I had was one actuator that was toast! I bought two new ones from Amazon and cut off the wiring harness of old and crimped on connectors to attach to the new ones.
Works just as it should. The connector were then hot glued and then coated with liquid tape to keep water tight.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BZ898WR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 |
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