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  View original topic: Generator/Dynamo Blanking Covers?
chris86uk Tue Apr 09, 2019 6:24 am

Hi,

I've read that the generator / dynamo on T2's are supposed to have some protective covers fitted to them but having not seen a picture, I'm not sure what they are or where they're supposed to go. The article I read said not having the cover(s) in place can contribute to bus fires.

Logic would tell me the terminals should be covered, but should the holes in the body also be plugged? (See pics)

Thanks

Chris





[email protected] Tue Apr 09, 2019 7:01 am

your generator is not properly clocked...the terminals need to go to the right.

some had a plastic cover that clipped into the top. not really needed. I will try and find a photo.

Wildthings Tue Apr 09, 2019 7:59 am

There were plastic covers that closed off the top slot in the generator housing for accessing the brushes. They pretty much disappeared as you revved the engine in first gear taking off from the dealer's lot. I bought a new Bosch generator for my T-181 this past summer and it came with the cover. It had about a week's life before it popped off and got deformed by going through the belt.

asiab3 Tue Apr 09, 2019 9:29 am

Hi Chris,

Yes, Skills is right on talking about the rotation of the generator. There are cooling air pickups on the backing plate help keep the generator cool; right now yours is not optimal.

1969 and up buses with Type 1 engines came with a 38-amp generator that doesn’t have a plastic cover. It looks like you have that generator, but I’m not 100% certain based on your pictures. You can check the stamped numbers on the generator body for “38A” or “30A”, or post a pic of your entire generator and backing plate setup. (It looks like you have a cast iron front generator pulley, which would indicate 38-amp as well.)

Airhead Parts sells a plastic upper cover for the 30-amp generator which fits like a glove, and it’s been on my bug for a few years with no issues.

There are also rubber boots that go around the wire terminals, but they have to be slid on the wires before the crimp connectors are crimped on. Some people say they didn’t come on buses, but I like them.

See you on the road,
Robbie

telford dorr Tue Apr 09, 2019 9:44 am

X2 on the rubber boots. Consider: the main terminal on the generator / alternator is (indirectly, for the generator) connected to the battery "+" terminal with a good sized wire. Short that to something and expect heat and many sparks.

If nowhere else, rubber terminal covers are a standard aircraft part, and are available from aviation supply places.

chris86uk Tue Apr 09, 2019 5:38 pm

Thanks to everyone for their replies.

Can I rotate the generator into the correct position without completely removing it from the fan housing?

Sounds like the blanking plugs aren't anything much to worry about but I'll check which generator I have and report back. I will definitely either get the rubber terminal covers or insulate the connections with tape at least though.

Q-Dog Tue Apr 09, 2019 6:32 pm

VW started putting a cover on the top generator slot on Beetles when they got rid of the rain guard on deck lids with vents. The cover keeps rain out of the generator. I don't see any need for it on a bus.

wcfvw69 Tue Apr 09, 2019 8:53 pm

Q-Dog wrote: VW started putting a cover on the top generator slot on Beetles when they got rid of the rain guard on deck lids with vents. The cover keeps rain out of the generator. I don't see any need for it on a bus.

This^^

It was also reported that the generators with the cover on ran hotter due to lack of enough air getting through them.

asiab3 Wed Apr 10, 2019 11:23 am

chris86uk wrote: Can I rotate the generator into the correct position without completely removing it from the fan housing?


Possibly. There are two ways the generator can be attached to the backing plate, and four ways the backing plate can be installed. Looking at the position of your terminal studs, I can't tell if it's installed on the backing plate correctly or not.

Dual port engines have an easy enough time removing the intake manifolds. Then you can remove the generator and backing plates together. Single port engines require tiny dexterous finger work to get all the fasteners reinstalled, and possibly a fan shroud lift to get the backing plates to clear the intake manifold, which is not worth trying to remove with the engine in the car.

Good luck,
Robbie

chris86uk Wed Apr 10, 2019 4:11 pm

^^ Thanks Robbie, I'll have a look at the weekend.

Chris

Abscate Thu Apr 11, 2019 12:22 am

Battery disconnect, negative first

Remove fan belt

Loosen generator strap

With an M6 wobble and a ratcheting 10mm box end the four bolts come out and then the generator can be rotated.

Reinstall bolts

Tighten strap

Negativeback on

Reset radio

Beer

asiab3 Thu Apr 11, 2019 12:35 am

Abscate wrote: Battery disconnect

Beer

All that assumes the generator isn't 180° out on the backing plate… :wink: Eight potential installation orientations, only one correct. Tune in next week for another episode of "Robbie can do basic math!"

Chris, this is the "slot" in the inner backing plate piece that needs to face down.




I lifted that picture from this thread:

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=649445


Since the generator can go into the backing plate two ways, I hope you've got luck on your side at this point…
Robbie

chris86uk Thu Apr 11, 2019 9:57 am

Thanks guys.

Definitely very useful to be able to see the slot in the above pic Robbie, now I know what I'm looking for.

I guarantee it'll be completely the wrong way round and the whole thing will have to come out though hahaha.

Chris

CanStan Fri Apr 12, 2019 8:57 am

I picked up a wire boot from CIP for $6 or so. They show out of stock, but at least this it what you're looking for.

https://www.cip1.ca/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C16-113-901A



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