TheSamba.com :: View topic - Best way to change rubber boot for gas tank filler neck?

Wed Apr 24, 2019 12:43 pm

Hey folks I'm wondering the best way to change that rubber boot that connects the filler neck to the gas cap ring. I really don't want to pull my motor but the smell of fuel is to much to handle thanks

Wed Apr 24, 2019 12:57 pm

The best/easiest way is to pull the engine.

Then you can easily remove the firewall panel and gain access to the filler boot but also all the little rubber vent lines in there that are probably also rotted.

Wed Apr 24, 2019 1:02 pm

Hello,
Haha, you're funny. Pulling the engine is the only way, my friend...
Well, you could cut out the rear cargo area and maybe get too it.... it's covered by the pad, No one will see your hack.
May as well put new shifter shaft bushing in when the engine and tranny are out...

Wed Apr 24, 2019 1:37 pm

why not give the pie plate a shot? someone JUST posted recently about this. It will either be reachable, or it wont. the consensus was that doing the swap thru the pie plate hole was misery.
edit, btw, your fuel smell could be from 3 or 4 different reasons
bad filler neck
bad connections on evap system
leaky fuel lines
bad seal on fuel level sensor
anyone else want to jump in?

Wed Apr 24, 2019 2:05 pm

Dang ya I was thinking the pie plate. I have to change the battery tray but I think I can do that with the engine in. My bus runs and drives great so I don't really want to pull it but it's looking like I might have to

Wed Apr 24, 2019 2:36 pm

pop the plate and see if it is doable. the guy on here a couple days ago said he watched a video where the clamps were right behind the plate when popped off. the real life attempt had no such luck

Wed Apr 24, 2019 3:02 pm

Hello,
Heck, it's only 1 hour maybe 2 at the most to pull the engine and tranny as an complete assembly, from start to finish. Well, that's if you've done it before and know what tools you will need "with you", so as not be crawling out for everything.
Then it would be easier for replacing the battery pan also. It's your free time, not mine...
Oh, and take care of the fuel tank(gas fumes) before you get in there with the welder......either way you decide to go. Safety first...

Wed Apr 24, 2019 4:12 pm

just do this

I hate doing stuff like this but the only available boots are made out of shit coated Chinese tissue paper...and I suspect you will do this every year/18 months.

seriously...they are that trashy. the source for good OEM ones has dried up last I checked. so what we are left with are all junk...WW CIP etc...they all sell the same paper thin ones

Wed Apr 24, 2019 4:23 pm

skills@eurocarsplus wrote: just do this

I hate doing stuff like this but the only available boots are made out of shit coated Chinese tissue paper...and I suspect you will do this every year/18 months.

seriously...they are that trashy. the source for good OEM ones has dried up last I checked. so what we are left with are all junk...WW CIP etc...they all sell the same paper thin ones

This comment is why I chose to do the much-maligned smearing my old cracked one with RTV.

Worked great until I pulled the gas tank recently to repair the outlets. I guess too much jostling of the filler pipe.

Now it is torn again. I didn't notice until after I was getting all sorts of spillage!

I think I cna get to the clamps without removing my engine, which I hope is true, because it is a PITA!

I plan to try one more time with RTV again, but also with a layer of fiberglass mesh to reinforce it.

Wed Apr 24, 2019 6:22 pm

I might have asked this before but I don't remember the response. Could the material gee bee uses for the hoses he reproduces be used in this application? I find his products to be superior to whatever after market stuff their is and even better than OEM stuff.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/search.php?username=GEEBEE

Wed Apr 24, 2019 6:46 pm

you would have to see if he could do it. I think the way he layers it would make it far too thick to seat in the gas cap area

Wed Apr 24, 2019 8:13 pm

The filler neck to the gas cap ring? Do you mean the filler neck to the tank? What year is the bus? I’m assuming you’ve never dropped an engine before and it’s scaring you. Just know this, if you drop the engine, remove the firewall, pull the tank and look inside, then replace all the 40 year old rubber hoses you’ll be glad you did. Does the gas smell only happen when you top off the tank?

Thu Apr 25, 2019 5:00 am

The neck to the out side of the bus the bus is a 78 it kinda has that stale gas smell anytime the tank is half full or more and no I havnt taken one out myself I have a couple parts buses one with that the motor and tranny need to come out of so looks like I'll pull that one as practice then on to mine I suppose. I have a 76 westy with no motor so I do know about those other hoses in there

Thu Apr 25, 2019 7:18 am

7eightchampagne wrote: The neck to the out side of the bus the bus is a 78 it kinda has that stale gas smell anytime the tank is half full or more and no I havnt taken one out myself I have a couple parts buses one with that the motor and tranny need to come out of so looks like I'll pull that one as practice then on to mine I suppose. I have a 76 westy with no motor so I do know about those other hoses in there

You might as well change them both at this point in time. The unreinforced boot at the filler itself has probably been replaced once or twice already, while the reinforced one at the tank is likely due.

Thu Apr 25, 2019 7:32 am

I did this last year. The replacement rubber piece I got to replace the old birds beak style filler neck was so crappy I just decided to keep the original as it is in ok shape. The tube from the tank to the tube was very warn and cracked. I replaced that with a sprinter van fuel hose. I believe it's part # 5119668AA . It worked great and I now have no more fuel smell.

Thu Apr 25, 2019 10:35 am

skills@eurocarsplus wrote: you would have to see if he could do it. I think the way he layers it would make it far too thick to seat in the gas cap area

I guess I was confused. I'm referring to the hose that goes from the tank to the metal tube (on late bays) that is currently being replaced with the Mercedes/dodge part.

With regards to the other part (is it refers to as the filler neck?), why do the aftermarket parts suck? Cheap material? Thin material? Bad casting?

Thu Apr 25, 2019 10:51 am

ivwshane wrote: skills@eurocarsplus wrote: you would have to see if he could do it. I think the way he layers it would make it far too thick to seat in the gas cap area

I guess I was confused. I'm referring to the hose that goes from the tank to the metal tube (on late bays) that is currently being replaced with the Mercedes/dodge part.

With regards to the other part (is it refers to as the filler neck?), why do the aftermarket parts suck? Cheap material? Thin material? Bad casting?

On the late Bays, there is only a short, straight chunk of hose connecting the metal pipe to the gas tank. At the top of the metal pipe, is another rubber piece that also attaches to the body. It is sort of sandwiched to the body by a metal ring and secured by three screws.

http://www.busdepot.com/211201119

On those Buses, the metal pipe is more or less suspended between these two parts.

See this pic (arrow is pointing at the hose that connects the lower part of the pipe to the tank).

For the top rubber piece, I think the problem with the replacement part is just generally thin rubber and/or maybe a bad compound, so it tends to tear after a relatively short time with that metal pipe hanging from it.

For the lower piece connecting the pipe to the tank, you don't really need anything all that special, you can probably buy a chunk of gas line in the proper diameter at the FLAPS. Mine doesn't have that little hump as seen below, though it could potentially make install a little easier.

http://www.busdepot.com/211201125d

On the middle Bays (and possibly earlier, I'm just familiar with 1973ish) the metal pipe is welded to the body up top, so there is no rubber filler part up there.

On these Buses, the hose between the metal pipe and the fuel tank is longer and has a bend to it, and is what some are using the Mercedes/Sprinter part to replace.

http://www.busdepot.com/211201125

Bus Depot lists all three parts as available. But I guess beware that the top pipe for late Bays might not be that great of quality.

Thu Apr 25, 2019 11:49 am

ivwshane wrote:

I guess I was confused. I'm referring to the hose that goes from the tank to the metal tube (on late bays) that is currently being replaced with the Mercedes/dodge part.

With regards to the other part (is it refers to as the filler neck?), why do the aftermarket parts suck? Cheap material? Thin material? Bad casting?

that part would be ok if geebee would make it. but it does have a bit of a gangster lean to it...it's not 100% straight. I have a bus here that has a straight piece of hose in that spot (red arrow in dave's pic) and you can see where it just *barely* grabs the tank outlet....fucking scary actually.

the MB hose with the hump allows you to get that slight bend...and it's slight...10-15* tops? but it is there.

to answer your other question about the physical filler where the gas pump goes into...plain and simple the aftermarket hates us. there is NO good reason they couldn't make one as robust as the OE with better material.

I have started suggesting any time I do any fuel tank work to cut in the access for that part. it will take 5 minutes to change when it fails...and I do believe it will. so, cut the bus or take a weekend to fool around with a part that will ruin your day....I would rather fix it in 5 mins than try to get in there with the engine in place.

VW really dropped the ball on that asshole setup

Thu Apr 25, 2019 3:26 pm

vwwestyman wrote: ivwshane wrote: skills@eurocarsplus wrote: you would have to see if he could do it. I think the way he layers it would make it far too thick to seat in the gas cap area

I guess I was confused. I'm referring to the hose that goes from the tank to the metal tube (on late bays) that is currently being replaced with the Mercedes/dodge part.

With regards to the other part (is it refers to as the filler neck?), why do the aftermarket parts suck? Cheap material? Thin material? Bad casting?

On the late Bays, there is only a short, straight chunk of hose connecting the metal pipe to the gas tank. At the top of the metal pipe, is another rubber piece that also attaches to the body. It is sort of sandwiched to the body by a metal ring and secured by three screws.

http://www.busdepot.com/211201119

On those Buses, the metal pipe is more or less suspended between these two parts.

See this pic (arrow is pointing at the hose that connects the lower part of the pipe to the tank).

For the top rubber piece, I think the problem with the replacement part is just generally thin rubber and/or maybe a bad compound, so it tends to tear after a relatively short time with that metal pipe hanging from it.

For the lower piece connecting the pipe to the tank, you don't really need anything all that special, you can probably buy a chunk of gas line in the proper diameter at the FLAPS. Mine doesn't have that little hump as seen below, though it could potentially make install a little easier.

http://www.busdepot.com/211201125d

On the middle Bays (and possibly earlier, I'm just familiar with 1973ish) the metal pipe is welded to the body up top, so there is no rubber filler part up there.

On these Buses, the hose between the metal pipe and the fuel tank is longer and has a bend to it, and is what some are using the Mercedes/Sprinter part to replace.

http://www.busdepot.com/211201125

Bus Depot lists all three parts as available. But I guess beware that the top pipe for late Bays might not be that great of quality.

Thanks for the info and part numbers!!

Fri Apr 26, 2019 8:38 am

I replaced the top filler piece and the lower hose along with all the vacuum hoses almost 9 years ago. I did not remove the engine. I did remove the firewall and pie plate. It was necessary to remove the S boot and air filter housing etc. Took about 4 hours total.

Just one note. Because the filler neck rubber piece is not as heavy duty or rigid as the original it can be attached to the pipe and then fed up into place and pulled carefully through the top opening. It does need to be oriented correctly on the pipe before the clamp is attached. I did not install the upper metal ring until the lower hose was attached to the pipe and tank.

And do not jam the filler nozzle into the upper pipe area when filling at the gas station. The filler neck rubber piece will last much longer. 9 years in about 2 months. FYI.