beach_creature |
Tue Apr 30, 2019 2:04 pm |
|
I have recently installed this onto my AAZ. I am amazed at how much oil the Provent diverts From going back to the intake.
After about 600 km/400 miles, I have about 4” of oil collected in 1/2” PVC tube. This is maybe 30-50 mL.
No wonder I was constanly dripping oil from my silicone intake ducting.
So now the question, is there something wrong with my PVC valve? Why am I getting so much oil in my blow by? Or is this normal? My PVC is sitting horizontal the way it was intended, as opposed to slanted over with the 50* tilt.
Thoughts?
But this thing really works!
I have now used the Provent check valve and have it draining into the block, so as not to lose oil.
|
|
Mike Robinson |
Tue Apr 30, 2019 8:11 pm |
|
Interesting product.
Where did you buy it and how is it plumbed in?
Thanks
Mike
'82 Westy diesel AAZ |
|
beach_creature |
Tue Apr 30, 2019 8:45 pm |
|
This is where I got mine
https://www.idparts.com/mann-provent-200-p-2334.html
It’s a catch can with a filter in it. Gases leaving PCV go into it. Then come out and go back to intake.
Drain out the bottom of separated oil. Drain it off, or let it drain back into engine.
There were a few samba threads on the Provent years ago. |
|
rmcd |
Tue Apr 30, 2019 9:03 pm |
|
Google provent and there are lots of resellers.
My tdi swap came with an open to atmosphere catch can. It was a POS. It leaked. My turbo leaked.
I plumbed in a provent and so far the turbo hasn’t dripped in 600 miles. The provent is dry and hadn’t accumulated anything the first couple hundred miles. I’ll look this weekend.
|
|
Zeitgeist 13 |
Tue Apr 30, 2019 9:13 pm |
|
I have a similar unit lifted from an ancient MB diesel--left side of the bay. I think it's made by Mann. It drains back into the crankcase where the original turbo drain entered--my turbo drains into the oilpan.
|
|
Outback Kampers |
Tue Apr 30, 2019 10:08 pm |
|
Plumb the CCV filter drain into the pan. Below oil level, no check valve needed. Above oil level, add one for sure, ask me what happens if you don't. :shock:
There is no 'PCV'. The vent atop the valve cover is free flowing both ways. Yes, it may have some blowby. Pull the hose from the vent on the valve cover when running and see how much smoke comes out. Should be barely any. |
|
Mike Robinson |
Wed May 01, 2019 6:54 am |
|
So ...
From the top of the valve cover vent into the prevent and the old line from the valve cover vent to the air input is no longer required?
What is the easiest way to return the oil back into the engine? - I am not keen on drilling a hole. Could I route it into the unused dip stick on top of the engine (I have an AAZ)
Thanks
Mike |
|
cawvin |
Wed May 01, 2019 7:22 am |
|
Quote: What is the easiest way to return the oil back into the engine? - I am not keen on drilling a hole.
My provent drain line is tee'd into the oil fill port in the bottom of the pan, rear-of-vehicle facing corner. Maybe the dipstick hole could be made to work, depending on where your filter is mounted? I'd avoid any uphill routing in the drain plumbing though.
I have a check valve in my drain even though it comes in below the oil line of the pan. I know some say it is not necessary but I'd do it.
Also I'd be sure to mount the filter as high in the engine compartment as you are able. Too low, and oil can back flow up the drain line. (again, check valve!)
Great little unit just be mindful of your plumbing. Probably also smart to check the filter element frequently during your first few drives to monitor what's going on in there. |
|
beach_creature |
Wed May 01, 2019 9:24 am |
|
Mike Robinson wrote: So ...
From the top of the valve cover vent into the prevent and the old line from the valve cover vent to the air input is no longer required?
What is the easiest way to return the oil back into the engine? - I am not keen on drilling a hole. Could I route it into the unused dip stick on top of the engine (I have an AAZ)
Thanks
Mike
Does your turbo drain into the oil pan?
If so, you can use the old bung in the side of th block for the Provent to drain in to.
As far as plumbing, hose from PCV / puck on valve cover, to inlet of Provent. Then outlet of Provent back to intake. So you’re just adding the unit inline between the puck and the intake. |
|
Outback Kampers |
Wed May 01, 2019 10:01 am |
|
Drain can go to the bottom of the pan if you have a stock TD pan with that connection at the bottom. Or, tee into the turbo drain where it attaches at the side of the block. You MUST have a one-way check valve if the drain is above oil level, as it will suck and run away on crankcase oil. Not a fun scenario at all. Mann didn't include any documentation as to this important step when I installed mine years ago, resulting in my perfect 20K mile TDI running away and melting the pistons. |
|
Zeitgeist 13 |
Wed May 01, 2019 10:29 am |
|
Karl, I assume that runaway scenario was on a 50 degree install. Is the working theory that crankcase pressure inhibits the oil from draining properly, and it backs up in the catch can enough to get sucked back into the intake tract? Any hints as to where to locate a proper check valve? |
|
cawvin |
Wed May 01, 2019 12:28 pm |
|
Zeitgeist 13 wrote: Any hints as to where to locate a proper check valve?
According to the Mann installation manual:
Quote: The oil return fitting (6) is connected to the non-return valve with a drain line.
The non-return valve is then connected approx. 30 to 50 mm above the maximum oil level of the engine oil sump.
For the ProVent system to function properly, the minimum distance from the non-return valve to the oil return fitting (6) of the ProVent housing must be at least 350 mm (see Fig. 2).
Any angled positions which occur during mobile applications, which lead to a fluctuating oil level, must always be taken into account.
MANN+HUMMEL always recommends the use of a non-return valve for all ProVent installations.
Full manual is available here, mine didn’t ship with one.
https://oe-products.mann-hummel.com/fileadmin/user...ent_en.pdf |
|
beach_creature |
Wed May 01, 2019 12:42 pm |
|
THis is the Provent check valve.
https://www.idparts.com/mann-provent-check-valve-p-2436.html |
|
Zeitgeist 13 |
Wed May 01, 2019 1:23 pm |
|
That's a pricey little valve. You'd think Mann would include it with the Provent |
|
Gnarlodious |
Wed May 01, 2019 4:02 pm |
|
beach_creature wrote: So now the question, is there something wrong with my PVC valve?
There isn’t a PVC valve, and there isn’t even a PCV valve. That hockey puck thingie is simply a cyclone separator that slings oil droplets against the outside to condense them. Trouble is, it doesn’t work so well on a slant because the oil puddles at the downhill side instead of draining. It sits there until you punch it or are climbing a long hill and blowby increases such that it suddenly catches that puddle and blasts it out the hose.
An adapter would be a marketable product, it would level off the separator for the Vanagon installation. |
|
beach_creature |
Wed May 01, 2019 5:06 pm |
|
Mine sits upright. Still blows by a lot of oil. Well if it's not a PCV then what's it called? I know everyone reffers to it as a puck because it looks like one. It must have a name.
|
|
crazyvwvanman |
Wed May 01, 2019 5:25 pm |
|
It has various names. Here VW uses PCV in it's name.
https://parts.vw.com/p/Volkswagen_1993_EuroVan-MV-...9101D.html |
|
Gnarlodious |
Wed May 01, 2019 6:14 pm |
|
Does the blowby look like a lot? I got an idea putting the dashcam in the engine room and going for an uphill drive. |
|
Jeffrey Lee |
Wed May 01, 2019 6:48 pm |
|
Flex Technologies, one maker of silicone automotive hoses, does not recommend using silicone for oil, gasoline, or diesel fuel:
"... we recommend that you stick with other materials than silicone for any applications that will allow fuel or oil to come into contact with the hose. However, we do offer special fluorocarbon and fluorosilicone liners that offer superior chemical resistance."
https://www.siliconehose.com/blog/oil-fuel-and-silicone-hoses-/
Anyone here been running oil/vapor through silicone hose for an extended period (years)? How has it held up?
I once used conventional EPDM coolant hose for a diesel crankcase vent application, and the rubber was weeping oil within days. I ended up using PCV hose, presumably of a different compound, and it's been holding up for a few years now. |
|
Gnarlodious |
Wed May 01, 2019 7:19 pm |
|
Not advised due to the difficulty of securing oily silicone which is already slippery enough.
I have a silicone tube downstream from my turbo, for the first few years it sweated a clear fluid. Really weird. Matter of fact here is a picture:
|
|
Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group
|