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Fri May 24, 2019 2:37 am

i decided to bite the bullet and repair the rust that is showing around my windshield. the windshield has been pulled out and my rust repair expert welder has appraised me of what we are up against.

the sill is rotten in places and we are planning to weld in new metal and fabricate a lip especially along the bottom for the windshield replacement. it seems that someone put some kind of tarry crap on the sill to cover up rust on a previous windshield replacement. it needs to be ground down to metal all the way around.

in order to do the work, we need to remove the thick rubber strip between the windshield and the pop-top. it appears to have been glued in place at the factory. is that all that's holding it? what type of glue is best? any advice about removal and reinstalling the rubber after the windshield is back in is appreciated!

Fri May 24, 2019 7:46 am

I have a camper so I am not familiar with the actual rubber piece that you are taking about. Anyways, I have been always happy with 3M Super Weatherstrip adhesive for all rubber trim installation. It is black goop that feels very filmy, but works really well once dried.

I am contemplating the same for mine as I noticed small bubbles around the windshield. Any pictures of the progress would be helpful!

Fri May 24, 2019 8:44 am

thanks for the suggestion. hopefully yours won’t be as bad as mine. i think my problem was mostly from the crap that was put in on a previous repair. just got pix.

Fri May 24, 2019 2:15 pm

That looks ugly :shock: Scary thing is that the metal around the windshield on mine looks similar to your, meaning I may have similar deterioration. Gulp...

Fri May 24, 2019 5:43 pm

Yes more details and pics please. I have some pinch weld rust bubbles and the windshield has a minor crack due to one in the lower passenger corner.

I'm planning to take out the windshield this fall and deal with the rust. I have windshield experience but not welding...

Tue Jun 04, 2019 12:57 am

i'm working with doug rose of rustoration in woodbury connecticut. so far, he has ground out the rotten metal, welded in new metal through the channel and sealed and acid cleaned it. the windshield is going back in a couple of days. i never imagined when i bought this van that it had this kind of damage under the paint but in for a penny, in for a pound. i just hopes it holds up...

Tue Jun 04, 2019 12:59 am

doug removed the rubber wind strip from above the windshield in order to do the job. he recommends leaving it off. i'm not sure. any suggestions?

Tue Jun 04, 2019 4:00 am

That rubber strip is a wind and rain deflector. Leave it off if you don't mind either entering your T4 while driving. :lol:

Tue Jun 04, 2019 10:08 am

Quote: Leave it off if you don't mind either entering your T4 while driving.
that's kind of what i figured. i may keep it off for awhile. i'm planning on having the van painted in about a year. i'd rather put it on after the paint job. if i start to get leaks, i will probably rethink that...

Tue Jun 04, 2019 6:17 pm

postjosh wrote: Quote: Leave it off if you don't mind either entering your T4 while driving.
that's kind of what i figured. i may keep it off for awhile. i'm planning on having the van painted in about a year. i'd rather put it on after the paint job. if i start to get leaks, i will probably rethink that...

Or when you drive down the highway and the top starts buffeting...

Fri Jun 07, 2019 10:56 am

here’s some more photos. i'm picking it up on tuesday

Tue Jun 11, 2019 1:40 pm

a couple more photos

Tue Jun 18, 2019 11:41 pm

Why did the installer prime the surface over your fresh paint? Primer is designed for raw metal like when you scratch the metal during a removal.
They should have just used an Aktivator prep instead. What was the point of the gray tape? with the molding installed the glass is self centering and will not slide down.
The reason it was rusty was from a previous install, no doubt. Hopefully when they did the repair they did not use any filler or clear coat on the glue surface.
In my estimation that repair will last about 3 years. Be sure to blow a high pressure water hose between the trim and thed body and push out any standing dirt and crap. Rust on cars in the glass area is a total bitch and anything short of full metal replacment will just come back to haunt you.

Stacy

Wed Jun 19, 2019 8:32 am

I've used tape to force molding down while the urethane sets. Maybe it was curling up at the top? Or maybe the opening is larger now from the welding. Maybe the OP can say.

The paint question is interesting. My Ford had the OEM paint under the primer and urethane. I've read that priming scratches will help against rust (and certainly should be done) but much better never to scratch in the first place. So leaving it as bare metal for the windshield primer...not so sure. But anything between the primer and metal determines the bond strength... Hmm. What to do when you've ground off everything.

Sun Jun 30, 2019 2:57 pm

i'm no expert but this is what i was told. the black stuff is kbs rust proof coating. it was put directly on the windshield frame after the frame was ground down, new metal welded in and acid washed. i was told this was the best way to seal the metal from further rusting.

Mon Oct 21, 2019 2:15 pm

I have some similar rust on my 2002 Weekender. How much did this repair run you if you don't mind me asking?

Fri Mar 20, 2020 3:26 pm

Hey, I'm also in the same boat...Do you mind saying how much it cost.

Mon Mar 23, 2020 7:12 pm

Hey this is a common problem with bays as well..On those you can buy the whole bottom piece for$100 or so,maybe u can find one for a Eurovan...good luck...I got lucky on my Eurovan but not on my 76 Westy.. good luck... Bill. They had them at the no dough last Apr.

Mon Mar 23, 2020 7:27 pm

Also they have been making Eurovans for almost 30 years..

They only made splits for 25 years and bays for 34 years and vannagans for what 12?... Wow ,2nd place going for 1st worldwide spooner or later we EV. Owner's will get their due..I worked mine today..and rescued a Mini

Tue Mar 24, 2020 9:02 am

Yeah, I looking at 3000-6500 for my repair..(3000 is a starting rough estimate) I'm wondering if anyone one knows of someone cheaper in the San Luis Obispo area.. It's a repair that I just don't have the capacity to do. I'm new to my Eurovan and this forum

Thanks for your input Bill.