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Tue Jun 11, 2019 10:36 pm

About 2 weeks ago my left rear blinker went out, and now my blinkers aren't working when I use the blinkers. They only seem to come on when I use the hazards, except for the left rear blinker, don't know what's happening don't want all the lights to go off. PLEASE HELP. I did see smoke come from where I believe the fuses are before this happened, keep in mind this is my first Volkswagen restoration. It's a 73 Volkswagen beetle standard not a super

Wed Jun 12, 2019 1:42 am

Are you sure the smoke wasn't coming from the steering column?

Wed Jun 12, 2019 7:01 am

About left rear blinker, check bulb sometimes it is just poor contact in socket or look to see if it's burned out, if not burned out maybe bulb socket lost its ground (to fender)... If not then check to see if wire to bulb has come loose ...

Something like this test probe below ($5-$10 at FLAPS) can be big help.... Alligator clip on clean ground and light comes on then you have power where even probe is touching, if light does not come on when probe touches a "contact point" then no power... Chase wires back to where you find power, the problem is somewhere near...

About the smoke.... Order "harness smoke" replacement kit...

Just kidding ... This kit is for cars with LUCAS wiring and gauges.... IF its not smoking now, look for burnt (crispy-charred) melted insulation on wires around fuse panel or turn signal switch... Smoke comes from excessive heat, and heat leave telltale signs on wires and parts as they do not look "normal" as rest of wiring and such.... Check fuses on fuse panel, one may have blown to "protect" system if one or more is blown there is a problem down stream from fuse panel...

This is where you are going to learn about cars electrical system...

I know is for a 70 beetle but it's easier to follow than the wiring diagram for 73 and its almost identical...

Miserable isn't it...

Dale

Wed Jun 12, 2019 3:58 pm

So I found that number 12 fuse is burned, so I will replace, but if that doesn't work what do I do?

Wed Jun 12, 2019 7:13 pm

S-12 seems to power emergency flasher switch, emergency flasher relay, generator, oil pressure , turn signal warning light, emergency flasher warning light...

IF you counted fuse panel wrong and its S-1 it's all your rear tail and marker lights....

Dale

Wed Jun 12, 2019 11:58 pm

So I don't understand why my hazards work, but my blinkers don't

Thu Jun 13, 2019 1:50 am

Also, know that some spade connections which look good may not be. Corrosion, cracks, fraying, etc.. You sometimes need to take them all off, run a wire brush (batt disconnected if you don't like sparks) over the connector prongs on the fusebox, and put them back on. I use something called "electrical paste", which looks like thick copper grease...not sure exactly what makes it "electric". Helps from the problem coming back, though, protects from corrosion. Improves electrical conductivity? Don't know.

If you go over a whole stock era wiring loom, you WILL find connectors like this, or which won't survive disconnecting, somewhere.

If it's hazards when you blink, I'd follow up and see where they connect for the hazard, that's where they are connected.

Thu Jun 13, 2019 2:04 am

I ask again are you sure the smoke wasn't coming from the steering column?? I think you have a warn out indicator selector switch It is in the steering column , a fuse blowing doesn't create smoke but a short in the column would, it would also burn out a bulb on the selected side and eventually the fuse.

Thu Jun 13, 2019 11:20 am

Parkerm463 wrote:

So I don't understand why my hazards work, but my blinkers don't
Because you turn signal get power through hazard switch and if problem is with turn signal switch or flasher it is AFTER hazard light switch/system.... Each system sort of splits at hazard warning switch...

Dale

Fri Jun 14, 2019 5:56 pm

Nitramrebrab72 wrote: I ask again are you sure the smoke wasn't coming from the steering column?? I think you have a warn out indicator selector switch It is in the steering column , a fuse blowing doesn't create smoke but a short in the column would, it would also burn out a bulb on the selected side and eventually the fuse.

I will replace all of the fuses, and replace indicator switch for good measure. Thank you so much!

Fri Jun 14, 2019 5:58 pm

Thank you all so much, you have helped me narrow it down to a select few issues that could be the issue. So I will be replacing quite a bit for good measure.

Sat Jun 15, 2019 6:42 am

Don't fix things that are not broken..... Learn about automotive electricals and only replace what is bad... Learning is cheap, blatant replacement get expensive and may not solve problem....

Dale

Sat Jun 15, 2019 7:57 am

I would just check the steering column switch out before replacing it, I don't think you can get original factory ones, it would be a shame to replace a functional original one for an aftermarket copy. On top of the cost.
Take the steering wheel off have a good look, maybe take a pic and zoom in and look for areas it may be shorting out. Possibly use continuty test between the switch (+) at different sides of it and earth (--) while wiggling it about indicating left to right to see if you can provoke a shorting out senario. So that's battery cable + only removed tester set to resistance and if you get any kind of reading you don't have to get a 0 ohms but a reaction will indicate an interment short.

Sat Jun 15, 2019 10:32 pm

Dale M. wrote: Don't fix things that are not broken..... Learn about automotive electricals and only replace what is bad... Learning is cheap, blatant replacement get expensive and may not solve problem....

Dale

What should I be looking to do then?

Sat Jun 15, 2019 10:34 pm

Nitramrebrab72 wrote: I would just check the steering column switch out before replacing it, I don't think you can get original factory ones, it would be a shame to replace a functional original one for an aftermarket copy. On top of the cost.
Take the steering wheel off have a good look, maybe take a pic and zoom in and look for areas it may be shorting out. Possibly use continuty test between the switch (+) at different sides of it and earth (--) while wiggling it about indicating left to right to see if you can provoke a shorting out senario. So that's battery cable + only removed tester set to resistance and if you get any kind of reading you don't have to get a 0 ohms but a reaction will indicate an interment short.

So I should try and short it?

Sun Jun 16, 2019 4:51 am

Simulate a short but with the + cable disconnected from battery using a electricians tester set to resistance (ohms) to check for short.