TheSamba.com :: View topic

Thu May 13, 2004 8:51 pm

Hello!

Anyone use a power bleeder on their brakes? I picked one up, and the direction state to pump it up to the pressure recommended by the manufacturer (VW). I looked for this info in my manuals and came up with squat.

What pressure do you use?

TIA!!!

Fri May 14, 2004 1:01 pm

These things saved my marriage...I don't think I could afford to bribe my kids to come out to the garage to pump the pedal any more.

Start out at 10 lbs to check for leaks. If everything is holding OK, pump it up to 20 for the bleed. I didn't bleed below 15...when it dropped that low, I vented it off, topped it off with fluid, then pumped it back up to 20. Bleed the right rear first, then left rear, right front, and left front. I drove it 20 miles, then did it all over again. It's helpful to have a clear piece of aquarium tubing to go from the bleed screw to a jar half-full of fluid so you can see when bubbles stop coming out. Be sure to wipe any fluid off your paint right away. Good luck!

Fri May 14, 2004 1:06 pm

Thanks! That is just what I needed to know.

I hear you on the marriage saver. I'm flushing out the whole system and I am damn sure the wife would throw a hissy if I asked her to sit in my "stinky" car that long. LOL

Sat May 15, 2004 5:38 pm

Okay, something just doesn't seem right. I got it all connected correctly, no leaks. Jacked her up, took off the wheel and rubber cap, attached a clear tube to the valve and loosened. Fluid barely trickled out. Even after loosing it a lot, I could hardly get anything out of it. I always thought I should get a fair stream from it or something. Also, shouldn't the wheel be locked into place, just as if the brake pedal is being pressed?

TIA!

Mon May 17, 2004 7:36 am

Sounds like your lines are crudded up or flattened. I had replaced everything (lines, master cylinder, calipers, rear wheel cylinders, etc) before I bled, and fluid shot through as soon as I cracked the bleeder screw. 20 lbs isn't very much pressure; if your brake cylinders are sticky, the shoes may not seat firmly on the drums.

Did the other wheel(s) bleed OK? Check them all; this will localize the problem. When I bought my Ghia, the car shippers had passed straps over the rear axle tubes to hold the car in place on the trailer. Both rear brake lines were smashed completely flat against the axle tubes. A big rust chunky jammed inside the "T" where the rear lines split off to each side can do the same thing.

Mon May 17, 2004 7:50 am

Crudded is probably right. Same fluid for 8 years of sitting. Nice beer color. Both rear wheels were the same, with the left being even less interested in bleeding. Looks like I'll get one of those kits and replace all the lines, just to be on the safe side.

Thanks!

Mon May 17, 2004 8:59 am

If you've got a source of compressed air, I'd try disconnecting the lines at the wheel cylinder and the master cylinder (one side at a time) and blowing them out. May save you the hassle of running new tubing. That long one that runs from the cylinder all the way back to the "T" is a pain to replace. Since you have a power bleeder, it's not a big deal to blow out the lines. None of the kits (that I know of) are pre-bent...you have to bend them yourself. I'm sure it can be done, but bending the main line with the body in place on the pan can't be much fun. Don't forget to get a tubing bender, too. The KGPR kit is pretty good.

Mon May 17, 2004 9:08 am

Alas, but I don't have compressed air other than the bleeder. I'll check on the front brakes and see if they have the same problem. Perhaps it is just that "T" that is the problem. The car does stop, and the pedal is firm, so I'll have to hunt down the problem and see what is up.

Tue May 18, 2004 10:05 pm

Well now, I did the fronts this evening and it went exactly as it should. Just a little turn of the bleeder valve and fluid shot right out. So. there must be an issue with the lines to the rear. Or possibly something with the MC?