TheSamba.com :: View topic

Mon Jul 22, 2019 7:13 pm

Coming to new home Wednesday.

Thu Jul 25, 2019 8:43 pm

She’s home. Ready to start having fun.

Sat Jul 27, 2019 7:23 am

well do not hesitate to call us if you ever need any advice.

Sat Jul 27, 2019 4:28 pm

Thanks, Doc. Will do.
Have a list beginning. Mirrors at the top.
Motor’s got a noticeable exhaust leak. Most likely gonna pullit and substitute 2L that came from my wife’s 76. Only issue was the oil cooler leaking.
I’ll know more when I get that can or worms opened.

But, got her home and parked near the rest of the herd. She’d spent a couple days out in the street. That just wouldn’t do.
Took a moment and come polish and found some brightness beneath the oxidized paint. There’s hope there, yet.

Mon Jul 29, 2019 10:12 am

looks like it will polish up nicely, as it is such an original looking car. Exhaust leak could be something as minor as the heat exchanger mating to the head

Mon Jul 29, 2019 6:03 pm

The PO said he’d been chasing the leak. Stripped a stud. Repaired it.
No joy.
I’m wondering it the oval head insert became unovaled.(?)
Can LJET FI be installed in. 2L?

Registered and titled. Washed up.
It wanting to be driven.

Tue Jul 30, 2019 7:25 am

usually it is poor mating to the head as the muffler bracket breaks and the heat exchanger pulls at the head, then breaks the studs. If you remove the heat exchanger, carefully replace the copper o rings, and while doing so look at the mating surface, check the studs for trueness and then file the top of the heat exchanger, both surfaces at the same time, and mate the heat exchanger by itself to the head torquing the 12mm headed nuts in an x pattern while shaking the heat exchanger a bit to make sure that it settles against the head you will be ok. The stainless steel aftermarket heat exchangers have a harder time sealing as they are thinner.

Tue Jul 30, 2019 11:09 am

[email protected] wrote: usually it is poor mating to the head as the muffler bracket breaks and the heat exchanger pulls at the head, then breaks the studs. If you remove the heat exchanger, carefully replace the copper o rings, and while doing so look at the mating surface, check the studs for trueness and then file the top of the heat exchanger, both surfaces at the same time, and mate the heat exchanger by itself to the head torquing the 12mm headed nuts in an x pattern while shaking the heat exchanger a bit to make sure that it settles against the head you will be ok. The stainless steel aftermarket heat exchangers have a harder time sealing as they are thinner.

Also if you are replacing exhaust studs....the best way I have found is with a coarse outer thread, solid wall steel insert like EZ-lok.

Make sure to use two taps when tapping the bore for the thread insert. Make sure the insert bottoms out a full thread width above the bottom of the bore to allow a very small amount of the stud or bolt you put in it to protrude past...maybe .030"...so the stud CANNOT bottom in the bore and jack the insert out. Use high temp threadlocker and peen the aluminum around the opening into the to slots that are used to install the insert.

Bolt a manifold up to the other studs and use it for a drill guide. Use a depth stop on the drill bit and only drill to stock depth.

Before you install the studs themselves...which should be class 10.9 or better.....insert each one into the insert before you install the insert. Mark the thread out the outer end of the insert. Then distort that thread with a punch so that the stud can NEVER turn inward any farther than about .030" protrusion in the bottom of the bore as mentioned earlier.

If you do this right...you will never have a stripped head again.

If you do not care about having SAE sized inserts and studs....these work well
https://www.ezlok.com/alloy/Steel-~-Carbon/style/S...d_in/Metal

This is their standard wall thicknes with 8mm internal and 1/2"-13 external. DO NOT use a stainless insert. Only carbon steel.
Ray

Tue Jul 30, 2019 8:41 pm

Thanks guys. Y’all are great.
Will let you’now how stuff goes.

So far as LJET on a 2L?

Wed Jul 31, 2019 8:58 am

you could install it and it is a superior fuel injection system, but should use the system from the 912e as it is more appropriate for the 2.0 engine and will result in more power. The 1.8 system will actually decrease power over the D system when installed on a 2.0. However if you have only the 1.8 system, it woudl be better to install than a single carb. You will have to use the 2.0 intake runners and seal the breathers for vacuum

Mikedrevguy wrote: Thanks guys. Y’all are great.
Will let you’now how stuff goes.

So far as LJET on a 2L?

Wed Jul 31, 2019 8:03 pm

Got the car out and ran around the block.
Gonna need to replace(install) firewall shift bushing.
Cleaned up the cabin: vacuumed, and wiped everything down. The brown (as my wife says “babyshit brown) interior will need to go. Pulled the targa top off, freed up rusted clamps. Gonna need to replace the targa seals, but the front seal is in really good shape.

Gonna be fun to get it really driving.

Thu Aug 01, 2019 7:42 am

hey hey hey!!!!!!! Cocoa brown interior is a really nice compliment to the yellow and is the original! Clean it up and keep the car as original as you can