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Sat Jul 27, 2019 10:08 am

So the consensus is to use red loctite on gland nut which i did sparingly. Seems like many have also followed this advise after reading many other posts. My question is what about when you need to remove the gland nut next time for seal replacement or whatever? I'm thinking this was a bad idea now. Just curious your experiences with this.

Sat Jul 27, 2019 10:19 am

Never used locktite on the glandnut. Just torqued it to the correct value with a well made torque wrench. Even the 2127 is just torqued, no locktite.

Sat Jul 27, 2019 10:27 am

I also just torque to spec.—253 ft. lbs.

It’s no use crying over spilt milk (or Red Loctite). You’ve already done the deed.

Tim

Sat Jul 27, 2019 10:37 am

My question was about removing the nut after the fact. This is what I need to do and before I start I was wondering if any one has been in the same boat. I know I cant possibly be the only one that's ever done it. It's on alot of posts. A whole lot recommended it from my readings

Sat Jul 27, 2019 11:10 am

Red Loctite - It only takes once to learn that lesson.

Just imagine if a PO used red Loctite on every nut and bolt on a car you bought. So much fun!

Have you tried removing the nut with the red Loctite on it? You might try that first. Maybe there is a solvent you can spray on it. Be careful about heating anything up that is close to a rubber gasket or bearing.

Sat Jul 27, 2019 11:27 am

I use a little BLUE Loctite on the gland nut.

Red typically requires heat to loosen.

Sat Jul 27, 2019 11:27 am

Havent tried yet. I have a torque meister tool and we'll see how it goes. Lesson learned by all means. Seems like you get some good info on here and some really bad as well.

Sat Jul 27, 2019 11:29 am

I'll use heat sparingly if needed. Maybe a heat gun initially. Maybe it wont be needed but wont know until I try.

Sat Jul 27, 2019 11:52 am

If you have access to an impact wrench, you might have better luck with that.

Tim

Sat Jul 27, 2019 11:53 am

I do. I'll start low and work my way up as needed.

Sat Jul 27, 2019 12:11 pm

I was using blue loctite but it was messing up the threads on the crank and wiping out glandnuts! Now I just grease a gland nut threads with the heaviest grease I can find.
To remove blue loctite the flammable carb cleaner in a spray can will soften it, probably would also help with red. Make sure it's dried out before taking a torch to the gland nut. Even High temp red loctite will bake out on a sparkplug insert at head temperature.

Note the goop on the insulator is red loctite that baked out of this failed plug insert:

Sat Jul 27, 2019 12:13 pm

Good info. Heat is last resort