TheSamba.com :: View topic

Fri Aug 14, 2020 4:36 pm

Mike, do what Tram says. MrDuncan and I are both running the 123/Porsche-4-R-V-IE on curve #8 with really nice results. My car has literally never run this smooth. I know Tram keeps your car running right, but that distributor will make it that much better.

Jon

Fri Aug 14, 2020 4:51 pm

Tram saw my post and is gonna order a 123 ignition for me.

Fri Aug 14, 2020 4:55 pm

You are definitely going to be happy with the 123!

Jon

Mon Sep 28, 2020 6:59 pm

Welp, first day it was 78F outside, perfect time to work on the Squareback.

Today, I wanted to address and see how bad the rust was on the passenger side floor pan.

At some point only the passenger side of this Squareback had a water leak, which turned into a ton of rust.

Pulled the seat out, Everything looks to be OEM.

Now time to remove the tarboard. :oops:

I never knew, the Type 3's used a thin layer of Styrofoam between the tarboard for more insulation I assume.

Ready for the bad news?

I started grinding away at this with a wire wheel, the rear half of the pan (and near the battery) is very thin and will probably need replacement.

Door sill & pinch welds look to be good.

After grinding and vacuuming up the dust, I treated the rest with a phosphoric acid.

Going to need to bend this seat rail back, and order new plastic bushings from ISP West. The oem bushings crumbled in my hand.

Mon Sep 28, 2020 8:01 pm

I've seen worse. :lol: Just look at the links in my signature for examples, especially the 71 Notchback.

Mon Oct 05, 2020 6:30 pm

This is going to be fun.

Mon Oct 05, 2020 7:18 pm

Mr.Duncan wrote: This is going to be fun.

You're going to learn a whole new group of swear words with that job.
I'd cut the old pan out first, then see if it'll bolt up to the body (may have to adjust some of the bolt holes).Then bolt it up in place, and mark out where you're going to trim the inside excess off. Add about 10mm to the outside edge of that line, and cut from there.
Sorry if it sounds over simplified, but the labor part isn't.
You'll have to separate the right rear kick panel as well.

Mon Oct 05, 2020 11:38 pm

Unless you are going for a show car I would not change the pan for the damage you have shown.
You can mig in those holes.
I have repaired some with many more holes than that.

Wed Oct 07, 2020 6:29 am

djway3474 wrote: Unless you are going for a show car I would not change the pan for the damage you have shown.
You can mig in those holes.
I have repaired some with many more holes than that.

It's not so much the holes that bother me, its the fact the pan is so thin I am able to flex a 15x15" area with light pressure from my pinky finger.

Plus the only thing keeping the battery from falling out would be plywood.

Compared to the good driver side pan, I can't even flex it.

But yeah, No show car for me. Just a good looking daily driver.

Wed Oct 07, 2020 7:22 am

vintagecarleds wrote: djway3474 wrote: Unless you are going for a show car I would not change the pan for the damage you have shown.
You can mig in those holes.
I have repaired some with many more holes than that.

It's not so much the holes that bother me, its the fact the pan is so thin I am able to flex a 15x15" area with light pressure from my pinky finger.

Plus the only thing keeping the battery from falling out would be plywood.

Compared to the good driver side pan, I can't even flex it.

But yeah, No show car for me. Just a good looking daily driver.

The passenger sides always take a beating from battery acid. Those old tar boards do an amazing job at keeping the "it just rained-Acid water" close to the pan. :lol:

Wed Oct 07, 2020 8:27 am

djway3474 wrote: Unless you are going for a show car I would not change the pan for the damage you have shown.
You can mig in those holes.
I have repaired some with many more holes than that.

^^X2^^

That, or use the new pan for patch parts, maybe?
ISP sells just rear quarter-pan patch pieces for Type 3.

For rust pitting like that, if you can blast the pits out deeply enough to chase the rust from the bottom of them,
Adding some kind of filler, lead, or other can get a good purchase and last.
Not that blasting those would be particularly fun or easy either..

The Gerson full pans are best done when you have the pan free from the body.
Not to say that they can't be installed in-situ like that,
but to do so would likely involve cutting them in different places and doing some butt-welding.

I admire your full-on approach to getting this done right,
Be sure to think long and hard about your strategy.
There are a couple of threads on the subject posted here.
Look closely how the type 3 pans go on.
It's quite different than a Beetle.
Beetle pans drop in from above and get spot-welded.
That's why you see them being done with the body on.
Type 3 pans are stitch-welded, and from underneath.
At least, with the Gerson pans;
The factory did the whole thing in one stamping.
It's a different deal..

Depending upon how much rust your car has,
Where some surprises might be hiding,
Watch out for the rabbit hole..! :P

Wed Oct 07, 2020 9:00 am

Clatter wrote: djway3474 wrote: Unless you are going for a show car I would not change the pan for the damage you have shown.
You can mig in those holes.
I have repaired some with many more holes than that.

^^X2^^

That, or use the new pan for patch parts, maybe?
ISP sells just rear quarter-pan patch pieces for Type 3.

For rust pitting like that, if you can blast the pits out deeply enough to chase the rust from the bottom of them,
Adding some kind of filler, lead, or other can get a good purchase and last.
Not that blasting those would be particularly fun or easy either..

The Gerson full pans are best done when you have the pan free from the body.
Not to say that they can't be installed in-situ like that,
but to do so would likely involve cutting them in different places and doing some butt-welding.

I admire your full-on approach to getting this done right,
Be sure to think long and hard about your strategy.
There are a couple of threads on the subject posted here.
Look closely how the type 3 pans go on.
It's quite different than a Beetle.
Beetle pans drop in from above and get spot-welded.
That's why you see them being done with the body on.
Type 3 pans are stitch-welded, and from underneath.
At least, with the Gerson pans;
The factory did the whole thing in one stamping.
It's a different deal..

Depending upon how much rust your car has,
Where some surprises might be hiding,
Watch out for the rabbit hole..! :P

This man speaks the truth for sure. #1 certified Rabbit hole finder. :wink: :lol:

Wed Oct 07, 2020 10:04 am

Clatter wrote: djway3474 wrote: Unless you are going for a show car I would not change the pan for the damage you have shown.
You can mig in those holes.
I have repaired some with many more holes than that.

^^X2^^

That, or use the new pan for patch parts, maybe?
ISP sells just rear quarter-pan patch pieces for Type 3.

For rust pitting like that, if you can blast the pits out deeply enough to chase the rust from the bottom of them,
Adding some kind of filler, lead, or other can get a good purchase and last.
Not that blasting those would be particularly fun or easy either..

The Gerson full pans are best done when you have the pan free from the body.
Not to say that they can't be installed in-situ like that,
but to do so would likely involve cutting them in different places and doing some butt-welding.

I admire your full-on approach to getting this done right,
Be sure to think long and hard about your strategy.
There are a couple of threads on the subject posted here.
Look closely how the type 3 pans go on.
It's quite different than a Beetle.
Beetle pans drop in from above and get spot-welded.
That's why you see them being done with the body on.
Type 3 pans are stitch-welded, and from underneath.
At least, with the Gerson pans;
The factory did the whole thing in one stamping.
It's a different deal..

Depending upon how much rust your car has,
Where some surprises might be hiding,
Watch out for the rabbit hole..! :P

Says the guy building a full on SHOW CAR. :lol: He's also found more rabbit holes than any T-34 owner that I've ever seen. :shock:

Wed Oct 07, 2020 10:27 am

Leave 10% of the old pans front & rear if you want to leave the body on the pan.

Wed Oct 07, 2020 10:32 am

After looking at this thread, I may have to, depending on how bad the rust is.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=744363

Wed Oct 07, 2020 11:58 am

Mr.Duncan wrote: After looking at this thread, I may have to, depending on how bad the rust is.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=744363

I've done several beetles with the body on, and even a T-34 while I/we were at Russ Wolfe's house. I wish I had access to those pics though (they disappeared with him). Some on here saw them, but I don't know how many, or where he posted them originally.

It's a big job no matter which way you do it, but it can be done with the body on.

Wed Oct 07, 2020 12:04 pm

Mike Fisher wrote: Leave 10% of the old pans front & rear if you want to leave the body on the pan.

I might go this route, I just need to see how bad the rear pan area is.

Wed Oct 07, 2020 1:04 pm

Mr.Duncan wrote: Mike Fisher wrote: Leave 10% of the old pans front & rear if you want to leave the body on the pan.

I might go this route, I just need to see how bad the rear pan area is.
They rust out on the flat bottom, so you can cut it off & weld new on 1/2 way up the slope.

Thu Oct 08, 2020 1:03 pm

Picked up a NOS Speedometer. 8)

Mon Oct 26, 2020 5:37 pm

Started to remove the fresh airbox today, gotta clean out the 49 years of leaves from it.

OH BOY

While I was in there, it was a great time to replace the speaker with a NOS unit.

I'm not sure how to clean up this rust here.

Before reassembly.