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lojoma Sat Aug 17, 2019 11:49 am

I'm going to have to cut out the battery tray area and weld in a new one.

I'm looking at this one from WCM. https://www.westcoastmetric.com/i-22963995-111-065.html

Any favorites for places to get the most accurate metal?

I have a '63, by the way.

lojoma Sat Aug 17, 2019 1:31 pm



Most of the rust is fairly superficial except right around the hole. Still in process of cleaning up. Vertical metal is solid. I would really like to keep my battery strap hook and heater outlet!

iowegian Sat Aug 17, 2019 2:11 pm

I had a similar situation in a Ghia, but didn't have access to a welder. I cleaned the area thoroughly using POR-15 chemicals. Then I made an aluminum plate that fit over the hole and covered the entire area under the battery. Applied duct tape or aluminum tape to the underside of the original panel to seal it up.
Poured POR-15 over the original pan, laid the patch in place, then poured on some more POR-15. The next day, I gave it another POR-15 bath. Maybe a third coat, I can't recall.
Yes, it might be considered a "Hack Job", but hey-------it worked and 19 years later it has not failed and is undetectable even out in the open in the engine bay of the Ghia.

Cusser Sat Aug 17, 2019 3:28 pm

lojoma wrote: Best battery tray sheet metal?

Not the steel real estate sign I used on my own 1970 back in 1988, after the real estate guy screwed me over about $500 worth on day of closing....it's still there...

iowegian Sat Aug 17, 2019 4:03 pm

Cusser wrote: lojoma wrote: Best battery tray sheet metal?

Not the steel real estate sign I used on my own 1970 back in 1988, after the real estate guy screwed me over about $500 worth on day of closing....it's still there...
You win. Your hack job trumps my hack job. :lol:

mas00 Sat Aug 17, 2019 6:16 pm

WW sells one that is almost thicker than OG steel. maybe 18g or prob 20g but with the primer already on it, mine felt thicker.

I installed the rear battery section a while back when I rebuilt my chassis. Turned out great.

https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/wolfsburg_new/body_s...cfm?type=1

lojoma Sun Aug 18, 2019 9:05 am



Went ahead and used POR-15 on the section that is good.

Digger89L Mon Aug 19, 2019 9:03 am

If you are 'welder-challenged' ....make an 'overlay' patch out of some good sheet metal (old washer / dryer side panels work great) ....POR15 the area (underneath as well) ...pre-drill pop-rivet holes (every inch or so) with the panel held in place ...slather the patch area with PL construction adhesive (99 percent as good as the expensive panel-bonding adhesive that body shops use) ...pop rivet (use steel rivets) the panel in place ...fill the underside area with seam sealer ...do the same with the top to camoflage the patch ...paint. Not quite as redneck as an old street sign, or a license plate ...but a good secure patch, none the less. To prevent future damage, use a Red or Yellowtop battery, or put a thick plastic tray under your regular battery. You should be able to find an appropriately-sized Tupperware type container, and cut the sides down to about 1 inch high. Again, not a show-car solution, but a very workable one.

lojoma Tue Aug 20, 2019 10:04 am

I ordered the quarter section from Wolfsburg west. It SEEMED to be the most accurate in shape just looking at photos from other vendors.

lojoma Thu Aug 22, 2019 6:44 pm

While I wait I thought I should check under the front, too. Little rust around the edges mostly. Will hit that next.

lojoma Wed Sep 11, 2019 9:32 pm



I have not been able to work on her for a while, but I did get the battery tray from WW and I'm working on installing it. Here's about halfway done on the welding in the pic. I won't win any awards for my technique but I think it's solid at least. I have a lot of grinding to get them flattened out but, progress.

bluebus86 Wed Sep 11, 2019 10:04 pm

I recommend a water proof seam sealer around the joint both top and bottom, a urethane seam sealer is good. This will prevent water ingress, and prevent rust from that. For future reference, a weld thru rust proof primer is desirable to protect inside the lap joint.

Bug On! With a Nice Pan!

lojoma Thu Sep 12, 2019 12:23 pm

This is a butt joint, not a lap joint, unless I'm missing what you mean. My understanding was to have the metal as clean as possible before welding.

Thanks!

andk5591 Thu Sep 12, 2019 3:40 pm

When you are done, POR-15 or something similar and then a couple layers of something like Peel and Seal to protect it from future damage.

bluebus86 Thu Sep 12, 2019 4:46 pm

lojoma wrote: This is a butt joint, not a lap joint, unless I'm missing what you mean. My understanding was to have the metal as clean as possible before welding.

Thanks!

oh, my eyes is bad, thought it was a lap joint.

The weld thru primer is a paint, a rust resisting paint with high zinc content for galvanic protection. It can be welded over. it is very useful for areas that are lapped, or inaccessible after welding. It welds nicely.

A seam sealer is good to use here on both sides, as it seals seams, since it is flexible, it wont crack. Paint is not a substitute for seam sealer as paint is much more susceptible to cracking in this situation, and wont fill gaps well, if it does fill them it may later crack and open up the metal to rusting.

Good to see a weld job here rather than a short cut!

Bug On!

lojoma Fri Sep 13, 2019 4:28 am

Is there a specific seam sealer recommended? Thanks.

andk5591 Fri Sep 13, 2019 5:15 am

We usually use 3m, but have had good results with some other brands..Just don't recall what they are.

bluebus86 Fri Sep 13, 2019 8:17 am

3M is a good product. SEM does too. You want a Urethane sealer, Not all aurobody sealers are waterproof. Some are cheaper, full of fillers such as clay that absorb water. They may be sold as suitable for trunks and interior, places that dont get wet. Do NOT use these. even inside where you dont expect water, they are simply a cheap product, your Bug deserves the best, get a Urethane, a water proof urethane. I usually put this over paint for double protection, then paint over the sealer for good looks.

I am not a fan or POR 15 cause top coats have issues with sticking to it, I dont know how sealers stick to POR 15, you may need to sand or use the tie coat they seal under the sealer, suggest you contact POR15 for advice on that.

Water proof Uerthanes can be had at auto body supply stores, or you may try urethane sealers sold at hardware stores, so long as water proof and paintable. dont use acrylic nor silicone sealers here

for tight seams a brushable sealer can be used, for bigger gaps the caulking gun type can be used.

Bug On!

riverart Fri Sep 13, 2019 8:31 am

We just did this job last week. Your welds look better than mine - eesh! We used some sealer (Dynaflex)from Lowes and a caulking gun. It dried well and then I used Rustoleum rust treatment paint over that and finally used Frost King to help with the road noise.

viiking Fri Sep 13, 2019 4:17 pm

bluebus86 wrote: am not a fan or POR 15 cause top coats have issues with sticking to it, I dont know how sealers stick to POR 15, you may need to sand or use the tie coat they seal under the sealer, suggest you contact POR15 for advice on that.
Bug On!

I seam sealed over the top of POR15 previously with Polyurethane seam sealer and it hasn't moved.



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