TheSamba.com :: View topic - Heater Showdown - Propex, Chinese diesel heater, Espar, Buddy

Sun Nov 17, 2019 7:39 pm

^^^^. Perfect! Can you give info or a link to the fuel pump mod?

Sun Nov 17, 2019 7:57 pm

I have been trying to figure out how to tie the 2- 2.5mm I.D. diesel pump fuel line into my 5/16” nominal (3/8” I.D.) vitron fuel line.

I have searched for a tee fitting or even a hose barb reduction mender that might get me close. 2 mil is tiny! I’ve tried to build all manner of hardware store brass fittings to cobble together some kind of Frankenstein 3/8”x3/8”x2mm tee fitting.

I’m stumped. How are others tying into their existing fuel lines? Anyone know of a means todo this?
TIA.

Sun Nov 17, 2019 8:16 pm

What if you just used a non reducing T. Then get a straight reducer off the T.

Sun Nov 17, 2019 9:10 pm

rmcd wrote: I have been trying to figure out how to tie the 2- 2.5mm I.D. diesel pump fuel line into my 5/16” nominal (3/8” I.D.) vitron fuel line.

I have searched for a tee fitting or even a hose barb reduction mender that might get me close. 2 mil is tiny! I’ve tried to build all manner of hardware store brass fittings to cobble together some kind of Frankenstein 3/8”x3/8”x2mm tee fitting.

I’m stumped. How are others tying into their existing fuel lines? Anyone know of a means todo this?
TIA.

Brass barb fittings worked for my fuel line splice going to an Espar B4 pump.
-1x 1/2 x 5/16 x 1/2 Tee
-1x 5/16 x 5/32 reducer
- 5/16 & 5/32 fuel hose, good clamps

The B4 came with a thicker black plastic fuel line that slid into the 5/32 hose and into the fuel hose connecting to the heater fuel pump. Then, the even smaller white plastic fuel line from the pump to heater uses two rubber hoses sections that came with the Espar unit.

I love my B4 and only managing one primary fuel source.

Hope this helps.

Sun Nov 17, 2019 9:18 pm

Awesome statement about the white noise! I don't think we are 'scared' of gas heaters here. I came very close to buying the petrol airtop 2000. Very awesome it just taps into the fuel tank.

Sun Nov 17, 2019 9:27 pm

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Espar-Eberspacher-heater-...3032149565

Sun Nov 17, 2019 9:35 pm

Thanks. Guess there are some options out there I hadn’t found.

I need to mic the plastic fuel hose to rubber hose transition.

Sun Nov 17, 2019 9:39 pm

Phishman- can you provide the links for the 90 degree angles for the fuel filter. I have been wanting to pull the trigger on a heater and would love a gas powered one rather than diesel of propane

Sun Nov 17, 2019 9:49 pm

rmcd wrote: Thanks. Guess there are some options out there I hadn’t found.

I need to mic the plastic fuel hose to rubber hose transition.

Yeah not a fan of that witchcraft myself. I plan to use only one size tubing for the setup.

Mon Nov 18, 2019 4:41 am

I guess I don't know what size fuel inlet there is for the heater pump, but you only need to use that small diameter, hard plastic fuel line between the pump and heater. You should be able to feed the pump with rubber hose.

But however you get fuel TO the pump, you NEED to use the plastic line between the pump and heater. That is how it pulses fuel into the heater; rubber would absorb the pulses too easily and it wouldn't meter properly.

Mon Nov 18, 2019 7:01 am

One note or question about all these heater options - when folks say they heat the bus great for camping, please let us know if this is with the pop-top up or down - or for that matter if you even have a pop-top.

Phishman 068 - I am thinking of going the same way as you - a webasto that runs on the regular gasoline. Which type of controller are you using?

Afterburner question - is there a thread that discusses using these? and would they work with a gasoline Webasto? I would think it would, but i don't fully understand how they work yet.

Mon Nov 18, 2019 7:12 am

I've got a pop-top and camp with it up whenever possible.

I made a layer of reflectix insulation that just press-fits on the inside that I put up in cold weather. That seems to help cut the draftiness from the canvas. I'm sure it is still cooler up there (my wife and I sleep downstairs) but the heater still helps take the chill off, for sure. Others who have slept up there haven't complained.

Sometimes I'll set a small battery powered fan blowing upwards to help get some warm air to circulate into the upper berth.

Mon Nov 18, 2019 2:35 pm

vwwestyman wrote: I guess I don't know what size fuel inlet there is for the heater pump, but you only need to use that small diameter, hard plastic fuel line between the pump and heater. You should be able to feed the pump with rubber hose.

But however you get fuel TO the pump, you NEED to use the plastic line between the pump and heater. That is how it pulses fuel into the heater; rubber would absorb the pulses too easily and it wouldn't meter properly. .

Great point! Thanks.

Mon Nov 18, 2019 2:44 pm

rmcd wrote: vwwestyman wrote: I guess I don't know what size fuel inlet there is for the heater pump, but you only need to use that small diameter, hard plastic fuel line between the pump and heater. You should be able to feed the pump with rubber hose.

But however you get fuel TO the pump, you NEED to use the plastic line between the pump and heater. That is how it pulses fuel into the heater; rubber would absorb the pulses too easily and it wouldn't meter properly. .

Great point! Thanks.

And to add to that a little, you just use small bits of the rubber hose to join the plastic hose to the pump and heater. You should shove them all together so there is little to no space between the plastic and heater/fuel pump nipples, then clamp down on the rubber to join it all together.

Mon Nov 18, 2019 10:03 pm

vwwestyman wrote: rmcd wrote: vwwestyman wrote: I guess I don't know what size fuel inlet there is for the heater pump, but you only need to use that small diameter, hard plastic fuel line between the pump and heater. You should be able to feed the pump with rubber hose.

But however you get fuel TO the pump, you NEED to use the plastic line between the pump and heater. That is how it pulses fuel into the heater; rubber would absorb the pulses too easily and it wouldn't meter properly. .

Great point! Thanks.

And to add to that a little, you just use small bits of the rubber hose to join the plastic hose to the pump and heater. You should shove them all together so there is little to no space between the plastic and heater/fuel pump nipples, then clamp down on the rubber to join it all together.

Gonna bump this again cause I thought the plastic hose setup was a nightmare waiting to happen so I have been thinking about how to all this without it. Thanks again.

Great note.

Mon Nov 18, 2019 11:38 pm

westyventures wrote: epbiggs wrote: I sure wish there was a way to tell how much propane is left in my tank, but that's just the way it is, I guess.

The main issue I have is with the thermostat. When I'm winter camping I can stay toasty sleeping in my -20 down bag, but would like to keep the van above 32 degrees to keep the water tank and other stuff from freezing overnight. At the lowest setting, it keeps the van at around 50ish degrees, which is warmer than I need for sleeping and if I'm out for a couple of weeks, I worry about running out of propane. Does anyone know of any hacks to adjust the standard thermostat to maintain a lower temperature, or do i need to spend the $80 to get the Propex digital thermostat (Van Cafe/RMW has them, so I can pick it up locally), which I assume would solve the issue, but may require a new wiring harness. Does anyone have any experience with the Propex digital thermostat version?

Boil a pot of water and throw it against the tank, it will show a frost line at the propane level.

There is a thread re: 'hacking' the older thermostat to a lower range. I'm sure you can find that with a little searching, or someone reading here can find it.

The new style thermostat (2-knob) has a freeze setting of 40, but the heating range if 60-80 beyond that. The digital thermostat / timer recently introduced has a 32-86 degree set range, and also gives you the option of setting a timer to turn it on 1-16 hours later. Both of the newer versions require the newer harness which uses 6 wires vs 5 as well as different plugs on both ends. I (the importer) sell all.
Thanks for the info! I'll give the hot water trick on the tank. To confirm, the new digital thermostat is doable with the new 6 pin wiring harness? And the 6 pin harness plug is compatible with the "older" HS2800? How much is the harness? The new 2 knob version with the "freeze setting" sounds great, but it seems to me if I were to upgrade, I might as well go with the digital version for more precise control and the timer feature. I'll also search for the hack you mentioned. Thanks again!

Tue Nov 19, 2019 12:12 am

epbiggs wrote:
Thanks for the info! I'll give the hot water trick on the tank. To confirm, the new digital thermostat is doable with the new 6 pin wiring harness? And the 6 pin harness plug is compatible with the "older" HS2800? How much is the harness? The new 2 knob version with the "freeze setting" sounds great, but it seems to me if I were to upgrade, I might as well go with the digital version for more precise control and the timer feature. I'll also search for the hack you mentioned. Thanks again!

Yes, and you can find pricing and such through the web link in my signature.

Tue Nov 19, 2019 12:22 am

westyventures wrote: epbiggs wrote:
Thanks for the info! I'll give the hot water trick on the tank. To confirm, the new digital thermostat is doable with the new 6 pin wiring harness? And the 6 pin harness plug is compatible with the "older" HS2800? How much is the harness? The new 2 knob version with the "freeze setting" sounds great, but it seems to me if I were to upgrade, I might as well go with the digital version for more precise control and the timer feature. I'll also search for the hack you mentioned. Thanks again!

Yes, and you can find pricing and such through the web link in my signature.
Is it the Thermostat Cable for $30? That was the only cable product I could find on your site in one of the drop downs, but it didn't say how many pins. Also, I think I found the hack you mentioned and just started reading about changing a resistor. Unfortunately, all the pictures are blurred out by photobucket but I think I can still figure it out. Thanks

Tue Nov 19, 2019 7:00 am

that really depends on many personal factors.
personal comfort levels
actual air/wind exposure/impacts
BTU capability of your heat source.

I've camped in cold, in snow with my propex 2800 2.5kw ~9k BTU) heater in temps in the low teens, in an 8in snowfall @ 8,oooft in Yellowstone and with blankets been quite comfy, the Ms comfy as well.

my camper is a ASI Riviera and I sleep in the top bunk. girl and the dog get the lower bed.

kguarnotta wrote: One note or question about all these heater options - when folks say they heat the bus great for camping, please let us know if this is with the pop-top up or down - or for that matter if you even have a pop-top.
.

Tue Nov 19, 2019 7:11 am

Westy with pop top up, no insulation.

Propex HS2000, 32 degrees in Moab over night. No problem keeping warm. Only needed a blanket even in top bunk.