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  View original topic: Metal heater cable conduit
The Beatles beetle Sat Oct 19, 2019 3:58 pm

The guy working on my 71 super OBLITERATED the heater cable conduits that are in the rear footwell. Can anybody tell me the size and length of the tube running from the tunnel? The angle of the bend is optional but if you can get it I will be forever grateful. I appreciate any sort of help.

glutamodo Sat Oct 19, 2019 6:08 pm

I don't have the answer you're looking for, but it did make me interested in just how those are routed inside the frame of the car. So I got out the best looking chassis diagram (the first Bentley edition of the Deluis, Klasing and Co Service manual for model years 1966-68 ) and did a high resolution scan of that part of it. (I already had made a lower resolution scan of the whole page a long time ago, but I wanted to zoom in) And here it is, well, shrank down to the 1600 pixel wide limit of the Gallery.


Q-Dog Sun Oct 20, 2019 7:29 am

The original is metric, but the size is not critical. The tubes only need to slip over the nipple sticking out of the tunnel. Then weld to the floor. I found something close, then expanded the end until it fit over the nipple.



The Beatles beetle Sun Oct 20, 2019 8:33 am

Q-Dog wrote: The original is metric, but the size is not critical. The tubes only need to slip over the nipple sticking out of the tunnel. Then weld to the floor. I found something close, then expanded the end until it fit over the nipple.



I donít have my beetle with me, this is why Iím asking for the size. Do you know the original metric size of the tube?

Q-Dog Sun Oct 20, 2019 8:59 am

No. I don't remember the original size. But, I looked it up and this is exactly what I used. Like I said, I had to expand the end to make it fit over the nipple. You might be able to find something closer. This worked for me.
https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED...uery=3cac9

themrfreeze Sun Oct 20, 2019 2:26 pm

I have the same problem on the passenger side of the car with the added challenge of the cable itself having been cut...it protrudes from the tunnel nipple maybe 3 inches. Any easy way to add an extension onto the cable or am I looking at replacing the cable(s) (and how hard is that to do)?

Q-Dog Sun Oct 20, 2019 5:52 pm

Cables pull out from the lever side. New ones usually slide in easily, but occasionally some sort of gunk gets into the tubes and creates a problem. Any of the usual vintage VW vendors should have new cables.

volksworld Mon Oct 21, 2019 6:23 am

i usually use 5/16 steel brake line tubing from any auto parts store

viiking Mon Oct 21, 2019 2:55 pm

Here's an original good condition tube that I took off my father's owned since new '68 that I am restoring. It gives a reasonable idea of length and you should be able to get the correct bend in it. The blob at the right side is where it was welded to the pan.

I measured the OD of the tube and it is 10mm. The flare is NOT a brake line flare but just a mushroom flare.



viiking Mon Oct 21, 2019 3:03 pm

themrfreeze wrote: I have the same problem on the passenger side of the car with the added challenge of the cable itself having been cut...it protrudes from the tunnel nipple maybe 3 inches. Any easy way to add an extension onto the cable or am I looking at replacing the cable(s) (and how hard is that to do)?

Replacing the cable isn't that too hard and relatively cheap. The only way I can think of lengthening the cable is put in a small swage that you can slip two cut ends into it. A cheap ass way would be to use something like a tubular fishing sinker with wires going all the way through. But if it comes loose you'll be fishing (pun intended) the bits out of the tube.

Better to just replace in my opinion.

jeremy.g Tue Oct 22, 2019 2:42 pm

For me, 3/8" brake line slipped PERFECTLY over the nub that sticks out of the tunnel. Just cut the flare off and use the straight pipe. Bends easily by hand.



-JG

themrfreeze Tue Oct 22, 2019 4:41 pm

[quote="viiking"] themrfreeze wrote:
Better to just replace in my opinion.

I think you're right...wasn't aware that it's a fairly easy job and that the replacement cable would be less than $10. Still learning about Beetles!

The Beatles beetle Sun Oct 27, 2019 6:38 pm

viiking wrote: Here's an original good condition tube that I took off my father's owned since new '68 that I am restoring. It gives a reasonable idea of length and you should be able to get the correct bend in it. The blob at the right side is where it was welded to the pan.

I measured the OD of the tube and it is 10mm. The flare is NOT a brake line flare but just a mushroom flare.



How did you remove that? Are they pressed in or welded? Do they have a nub and that section goes over it?

Daddy o's 67 Mon Oct 28, 2019 1:46 pm

There's a little nub sticking out of the trans tunnel that they slip over and are welded to the floor pan to hold them in place.

Volks Wagen Mon Oct 28, 2019 2:21 pm

Yes replacing is best, but a cheap way is to use electrical terminal connectors like the ones that come in a block..

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&source=images&...3902066341

viiking wrote: themrfreeze wrote: I have the same problem on the passenger side of the car with the added challenge of the cable itself having been cut...it protrudes from the tunnel nipple maybe 3 inches. Any easy way to add an extension onto the cable or am I looking at replacing the cable(s) (and how hard is that to do)?

Replacing the cable isn't that too hard and relatively cheap. The only way I can think of lengthening the cable is put in a small swage that you can slip two cut ends into it. A cheap ass way would be to use something like a tubular fishing sinker with wires going all the way through. But if it comes loose you'll be fishing (pun intended) the bits out of the tube.

Better to just replace in my opinion.

viiking Mon Oct 28, 2019 8:17 pm

Daddy o's 67 wrote: There's a little nub sticking out of the trans tunnel that they slip over and are welded to the floor pan to hold them in place.

Yes this is correct. It's just a loose slip fitting over the so called "nub" on the tunnel and the bottom of the tube is welded to the floor pan.



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