TheSamba.com :: View topic - Fuel Pump Replacement /Fuel Relay Replacement

Sat Nov 16, 2019 8:56 pm

I just replaced the Bosch 044 three port fuel pump in my 7/71 411 Wagon. I used an Airtex 2000 and encountered a few problems along the way. It has worked out so far, but thought I’d share the experience. And ask for some advice on the next steps.

First, I drained the fuel tank using the front drain plug. There was about 6 gallons of stale (varnish smelling) fuel which was discarded. Then I disconnected the fuel pump electrical connection and removed the pump. I also disconnected and removed all of the fuel line. A mechanic I used 15 years ago had mucked up the plumbing and had the dampener plumbed on the return side. Using the Muir diagram, and Ray Greenwood’s instructions, I replumbed the front end fuel lines. I added a fuel filter and used the old y fitting, as well as a brass tee fitting (until the y fitting comes in the mail).

(When installing the new pump on the bracket, I broke the rubber bushing in the pump bracket. I have jury-rigged the bracket for now, but would appreciate any advice on whether that bushing can be replaced.)

Then I removed the old plug from the wire, stripped the red and white wires and attached them to the new pump.

I put the key in the on position and . . . Nothing. No fuel pump power.

At this point, I realized I had a bad fuel pump relay. After checking, I discovered that these relays seem unobtainable. So I went and bought an off the shelf M45 relay at Autozone. I attached the red clips From the old harness at the 87 and 87a prongs. I attached the blue wire from the old harness to the 30/15 prong. Then I split the two prong plastic plug from the old harness into two separate connections, and slipped the top half of the split plug on the 86 position and the bottom half of the split plug on the 85 position.

Tried the key, and bzzzz . . . Power to the pump!!!

(Since this worked, I will probably use the matching M45 socket to replace the old fuel pump relay harness)

In any event, the fuel pump worked and primed, and fuel was flowing . . . Enough to realize that I had leaks at each one of the d-jetronic fuel injectors. I bought a rebuild kit for the d-jetronic fuel injectors, but am wondering if there is a tutorial on removing fuel injectors from the 1.7l 1679 engine. I can remove the fuel rails, but I am a little lost after that. Do I need a tool? Can I pull it by hand?

Any advice is much appreciated on:
1. bracket fix options,
2. the fuel relay workaround.
3. how to remove d-jet fuel injectors.

Sun Nov 17, 2019 8:22 am

Ok.....if you can see fuel leaking or spraying from or around the injectors.....look varefullt to see if its from the small 50mm-ish pieces of hose attached to the injectors. And.....if your injectors still have the crimped on metal shield (called a ferrule) on the injector end of that small piece of hose......then its likely its just the hose leaking and yes....you can remove the hose and that piece of metal....and install new hose sections WITH a fuel injection style clamp.....which is the samd type of clamp that the other end of the hose is attached to tge ring main with.

However....if its not the small sections of hose leaking......if the fuel is coming from around the hose barb, from between the yellow plastic rear plug section and the injector body....or from somewhere else on the injector body......then no....YOU cannot rebuild these iniectors and there is no injector rebuild kit made for them.

If you bought something listed as a "rebuild" kit....I suspect it is a "seal" kit....and comes with the tip seal and the large mounting grommet that fits around the injector body....and though I have never seen a kit with any other parts for D-jet....it may even have an inlet filter if someone made these kits up for sale.

If the body of the injector has no cracks.....an injector house like Witch Hunter or Cruzin could probably take your cores and rebuild them.....but its not normally something YOU can do.

There are a couple of common reasons why your injectors could start leaking from the joint between the yellow plastic rear seal and plug assembly and the injetor body.

1. If you had a lot of water in the system and the car sat for a long period in frigjd weather....and the water in the fuel froze.....the expansion will literally push the yellow hsat sealed parts away from the injector body. That happened on my first 411. I was in high school and stupid. I had LOTS of water in the system and did not know it. It dropped to 5°F one night and the car would not start the next day. Looking under the hood....had fuel spraying from this joint ob all 4 injectors.

2. If your new fuel 2 port pump install....has skipped the return line from the regulator and dead headed the system...a new phmp could push line pressures well over 70 psi....causing the same problem.

Take a picture of the part on the fuel phmp bracket that is broken. If its the rubbed bumper with 6mm threaded insert....those can be bought at mcmaster car.

Also there are at least 8 original fuel pump relays for sale in the type 3 classified ads right now. The type 3, Porsche 914 and type 4 use the exact same fuel pump relay. It is also the exact same relay as the one that controls power to the ECU.

Yes....they are used...but thats a tough relay. I would buy two used ones for the moment. Ray

Sun Nov 17, 2019 10:10 am

Thanks Ray. The FI leaks appear to be at the crimped ferrules. And yes, it was an FI seal kit, NOT a rebuild kit. And yes, I did include the return line (not deadheaded - mostly because your instructions were so clear on this point!)

So how difficult will it be for me to remove the injectors? Do I need a tool? Or is it more of a wiggle-and-pull exercise?

Thanks again for your expertise!