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valvecovergasket Fri Dec 13, 2019 10:41 am

awesome! in for more updates and pictures

?Waldo? Fri Dec 13, 2019 10:47 am

You should replace at least these two lines with clear lines in order to easily diagnose the common issue of air infiltration into the fuel system. I have a personal preference for clear lines for all flexible lines but those two are IMO the bare minimum.



Are you using an air to air intercooler over the trans? If so, then that is a relatively hot and stagnant location which makes it a poor choice for intercooler location.

You might also want to reconsider the ECU location. I know the early stock gasser vans placed it there but it gets drenched with water coming down the d-pillar vents. Later vans moved it to a less wet location under the rear bench.

You might also reconsider your coolant routing choices. The stock diesel vanagon hoses are readily available as new sets and are specifically designed for purging air from the cooling system with the engine tipped over to the 50 vanagon installation angle. The way you have it routed, your air purge for the cylinder head is the small line to the expansion tank. Its angle is poor for purging air when the engine is tipped over and the lion's share of air will go up the larger hose to the radiator. It will take many cycles for the air to purge out the expansion tank, if it ever does. In contrast, with the stock diesel vanagon hose setup, any air that finds its way to the cylinder head is immediately set to the expansion tank where it stays until bled out the burp tank at the license plate.

?Waldo? Fri Dec 13, 2019 2:30 pm

I'm curious about what you did for the oil filler tube to clear the A/C compressor:



You can see my solution to the issue in this thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=720670

Are you running power steering? If not, then you can easily delete the pump by acquiring the Quantum 1.6TD water pump pulley and shims. The pulley itself allows for tension adjustment. You move shims from between the two pulley halves to the outside of the outer pulley half to make the belt tension tighter. The pulley is part number 068121029A, the shims are 068121185B (4 or 5 will suffice) and the belt is 10x650. The last time I checked, the pulley was still available new from VW for $70ish and the shims were less than $2 each. IMO that setup is really nice as it operates the only engine critical item (water pump) with a dedicated v-belt and puts all of the other accessories on the serp belt. The added power steering pump, if only used as an idler, is a bit more risky as any issues with it or the bracketry will result in an inop situation.

I've used the Kennedy adapter plate on a couple automatic TDI's but have not used it for a manual trans installed. I have always opted for the diesel vanagon bell housing instead as it allows more options for flywheel/clutch kits, including the stock TDI clutch kits if the TDI Vanagon input shaft is used.

dieseltdi Fri Dec 13, 2019 7:20 pm

I originally tried to use the set up as shown in the picture for the oil filler but came to realize that nothing I could do would get the filler where it could be accessed through the license plate door so I simply blocked it off. It is easy enough to use a flexible funnel and fill the engine from the stock location on the AHU. I also used the stock location for the dip stick. I used the diesel vanagon stick funnel on the stock AHU tube and simply cut the longer vanagon dip stick until it just hit the bottom of the oil pan. I then cut just a bit more off. I am waiting until I get everything done to mark the oil dipstick for a full mark. I have 3 quarts in it now and have made a mark there. I didn't have power steering on my 82 Vanagon so I knew I wanted to do away with it. I have had a dasher and a fox that both had the kind of pulley you are talking about and I just didn't want to go that route. Instead I bought the idle adaptor pulley from Quality German Motors in California. It was pricy but preserves all the stock belt sizes and alignments. and is easy to adjust the tension. It can be found on this page about half way down:
http://www.qualitygermanautoparts.com/index.php?p=p1281587145&navt=Diesel%20Components

As far as the intercooler is concerned, I have it mounted just above and to the left of the transmission. It is a SAAB Blackstone intercooler and I have mounted a fan on the intercooler that will provide air flow. As far as the location of the ECU, in its original position in the Jetta and Passat, it was constantly being bombarded with water, and the cable connector has a rubber moisture seal so I don't think that will be a problem. It is elevated about 1" off the metal so that it has airflow all around and won't sit in water which is more than VW did in the Passat and the Jetta that had this ECU in them. I suppose I could put some kind of shield over it to protect it from water coming into the vent.

For the coolant hoses, I went back and forth on using a modified Jetta set up or the expensive Vanagon diesel design. After some discussions with others that have done it without using them, I decided to go the route I did. If I have problems, I will make corrections as necessary but if I am careful with the filling process, I don't expect problems. I will take into consideration installing at least one clear line from the fuel filter to the pump.

dieseltdi Mon Dec 23, 2019 8:47 pm

Well after contemplating a few things and looking at the amount of wiring I have, I decided to mount both the ECU and my relay pack under the back seat. This will insure that no water can get to either one. I will fabricate a barrier wall that can be easily removed to protect them from things packed under the seat but allow for easy access just in case. Hope to really hit it running after the holidays. Hayden

vwwestyman Mon Dec 23, 2019 10:48 pm

Looking forward to seeing how this thing goes!

dieseltdi Tue Jan 14, 2020 7:02 pm

Well after a bit of delay, I was able to get back on the Vanagon last weekend. Thanks to Andrew, I got the correct engine carrier bars for the air cooled 82. (I promise they will be on the way to you soon). Appears that the mounts on the water cooled versions for the diesel were different or at least the ones I had, and placed the engine approximately 2" towards the rear of the Vanagon which changed the placement and geometry fo the transmission. I worked for several hours trying to figure a go around for this problem but decided to just go for the correct bars. Unfortunately the new engine placement sets into motion some other changes, so I will have to reassess my exhaust set up and change some hoses/pipes in the intercooler system. All workable. I also had to change out my waterpump pulley set up. I had been setup using a replacement pulley for the power steering that allowed me to use the same belt setup used as stock on the AHU engine. Once again. help came from the Andrew and I now have a system that uses a smaller belt and a split pulley off of a Quantum diesel. I will get more pictures as I can to update. More updates later.

dieseltdi Mon Jan 20, 2020 7:17 pm

Spent today mounting my ECU and relay panel inside the storage area below the rear seat. I intend to build a small wooden wall to separate this area of the storage from the rest to protect the wiring setup. I also fixed up the wiring in the engine compartment and ran the wires to the front of the van. Tomorrow, if it isn't raining, I will remove the windshield washer fluid tank and figure out exactly how I want to run the wires up to the fuse box area. Here are a couple of pictures. Hayden


dieseltdi Mon Jan 20, 2020 7:22 pm

BTW is anyone having issues with the AHU or ALH pumps pulling diesel from the vanagon gas tank? I have a small secondary diesel pump that I was thinking of adding near the tank to boost the fuel towards the main pump. Any thoughts on this? Hayden

vwwestyman Mon Jan 20, 2020 8:38 pm

For whatever it's worth:

Years ago I converted a VW Cabriolet to a 1.6 diesel.

I left the original in-tank (non pressure) pump in place, and used it as a lift pump of sorts, to push fuel to the engine. No ill effects were noted of any sort, and it made purging air after changing the fuel filter (which I did somewhat often, as I was running 50% fryer oil in the summer) a simple matter.

My Bus' AHU has zero problems with having fuel fed to the engine. :D

dieseltdi Tue Jan 21, 2020 10:31 am

A bay window has a high mounted tank so gravity is working in your favor. No so much for the Vanagon when the tank is about the same height or slightly lower than the engine. I am going to try it without the boost pump first and see how things work out. Hayden

vwwestyman Tue Jan 21, 2020 10:52 am

dieseltdi wrote: A bay window has a high mounted tank so gravity is working in your favor. No so much for the Vanagon when the tank is about the same height or slightly lower than the engine. I am going to try it without the boost pump first and see how things work out. Hayden

Yeah, my main point was that if you used a boost pump, it wouldn't hurt anything! :)

MarkWard Tue Jan 21, 2020 11:04 am

dieseltdi wrote: BTW is anyone having issues with the AHU or ALH pumps pulling diesel from the vanagon gas tank? I have a small secondary diesel pump that I was thinking of adding near the tank to boost the fuel towards the main pump. Any thoughts on this? Hayden

Been running no pre pump or lift pump with my ALH conversion for 50,000 miles. Stock vanagon diesel tank and filter.

Zeitgeist 13 Tue Jan 21, 2020 11:05 am

I have a tiny low pressure boost pump in line with the feed to the fuel filter on my tdi swap. I use a toggle switch in the engine compartment to run it briefly after I've opened up the fuel system. By using translucent fuel lines to and from the filter I can see when air has been purged from the system.

dieseltdi Tue Jan 21, 2020 11:06 am

Great to hear that. I won't bother with the boost pump then. Hayden

dieseltdi Sat Feb 08, 2020 8:01 pm

Just an update. I have been doing a lot of little things that don't really work for pictures: 1) I ran the wires from the ECU to the front of the van and up to where the instrument panel will live. 2) I finished up wiring the radiator fan and the various relays that will turn it off and on during normal and AC operations. I have the AC ready to go in, just waiting on an order for hoses and fittings so that I can make custom hoses for the set up. 3) I replaced the two piece speedometer cable with a single piece one getting rid of the OXS box and the two piece set up. 3) I just received my new wheels: Pacer 60683B FWD BLACK MOD 16X6.5 5X105/5X112 67.00 Hub +41 Black Wheel Rim. I will be using 5mm spacers to bring them out to the same offset as the stock wheels. Waiting on longer lug bolts and studs and trying to decide on a tire size. 4) replaced the rubber boot where the steering shaft leaves the passenger compartment. Was a real pain but finally got everything attached. 5) I pulled out the remaining carpet out of the vanagon and pressure washed it to finally remove the last bit of old mouse pee smell from the van. I will replace it after I have everything mounted and wired. My next project is to mount and wire up the brake and clutch switches that are used by both the cruise control and the ECU and begin the wiring of the gauge cluster. Still so much to get done but my checklist is getting smaller. Hayden

dieseltdi Mon Feb 10, 2020 8:28 pm

Well I think I have found my tire. it is: Nitto Crosstek-2, 215/70R16 104T XL. I test fit that size tire mounted on my new rims and have absolutely no clearance problems with the 5mm shims. Anyone else used this tire? Here is the link in case anyone else is interested. Hayden

https://www.nittocrosstek.com

dieseltdi Mon Mar 02, 2020 6:53 pm

Just another update. I installed 1.5" lift springs in the front and rear (the older style Go Westy nonprogressive springs from H&R) new lower ball joints and new upper ball joints with Go West spacers. Rears were easy and didn't require any special tools. Front was obviously more complicated so I used a coil spring compressor to compress the old coils to get them out and the new coils to put them in. Makes the job much easier when you use the right tools. I did have to take my spindles to a shop to have the lower ball joints pressed out and in. I tried to use a hand press from Orielly's and it just wouldn't work. Upper ball joint was easy, just used a pitman arm puller to pop it right out. I should have made measurements before I took the old springs out but it certainly sits higher now. I should have no problems fitting the 215R7016 Nitto Crosstek2 tires mounted on 16x6.5" Pacer brand wheels on the van now. I test fit the tires before the new springs and everything fit but just barely. I am will be using 8mm spacers front and rear with new longer studs in the back and longer bolts in the front. My next step is to get back on the electrical. I don't have much left to do but it is still not my favorite thing. Hayden

dieseltdi Wed Mar 11, 2020 1:11 pm

Well I installed the longer rear studs I got from T3 and mounted all four wheels and tires on the van. I still need to clearance the rear wheels for the Pacer Center Caps. As the van sits right now, without the front seats and the upper rear cabinet and without moving since I jacked it up, I have just about 18" from the hub to the wheel arch and all four corners. I am sure this will settle out a bit once it is driven and fully loaded. I used 8mm spacers on all four corners to get good clearance from the suspension.


old_man Wed Mar 11, 2020 4:47 pm

RE: lift pump/boost pump.

I ran into this video a few days ago.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w_idIs20GmE

Interesting results. I don't know why. It's academic at this point anyways but I thought some of you would find it interesting.



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