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  View original topic: I just bought a Westy Single Cab! (1.6TD JX) Page: Previous  1, 2, 3, 4 ... 10, 11, 12  Next
?Waldo? Fri Dec 13, 2019 9:42 pm

There is normally a bit of oil in the intake tract due to oil mist from the crank vent. Oil in the exhaust is not normal, though. Sometimes condensate mixed with soot will look a whole lot like oil. Make sure it is actually oil. If it is, then there is likely an issue with either the turbo, the turbo oil drain, or excessive blowby into the crankcase.

Considering your description of performance, in that position I would install a boost gauge (even just temporarily). You can tee into the line from intake manifold to boost actuator on the injection pump.

old_man Fri Dec 13, 2019 9:53 pm

?Waldo? wrote: There is normally a bit of oil in the intake tract due to oil mist from the crank vent. Oil in the exhaust is not normal, though. Sometimes condensate mixed with soot will look a whole lot like oil. Make sure it is actually oil. If it is, then there is likely an issue with either the turbo, the turbo oil drain, or excessive blowby into the crankcase.

Considering your description of performance, in that position I would install a boost gauge (even just temporarily). You can tee into the line from intake manifold to boost actuator on the injection pump.

Boost gauge is on the work bench waiting it's turn to be installed.

I tried looking, but not too hard, what is this? I found it behind the left headlight. Ceramic with wires in and out. Almost looks like a very crude resistor.

SyncroHead Fri Dec 13, 2019 10:33 pm

Yes this is a resistor that's associated with the 2-speed radiator fan.

Jim Davis

T3messie Sat Dec 14, 2019 12:46 am

Hi,

the TD should make 127 kpH. Which gearbox is installed?

You found a very nice car with untypically little rust.

crukab Sat Dec 14, 2019 5:22 am

Nice Sinka !!! Love the color. I'm suprised you could not find a Sinka in Canada. There was a guy here in Vt. about 10-15 years ago buying Dokas & Sinkas out of a Canadian VW dealership & reselling them in the U.S..
F.A.S. in Harpswell Maine is a good connection for Vanagon stuff, they do the Tiilco installs, real helpful w/ exhaust parts.
Keep the pics coming !

old_man Sat Dec 14, 2019 6:22 am

T3messie wrote: Hi,

the TD should make 127 kpH. Which gearbox is installed?

You found a very nice car with untypically little rust.

I don't know, I will try to find out today. Reassuring that it should be able to go a little quicker, unassuring that's it's not.

Don't worry, there is some rust. I feel like it's also had a respray at one point so that could be hiding the seam rust. Inside the belly looked pretty nice though

old_man Sat Dec 14, 2019 6:24 am

crukab wrote: Nice Sinka !!! Love the color. I'm suprised you could not find a Sinka in Canada. There was a guy here in Vt. about 10-15 years ago buying Dokas & Sinkas out of a Canadian VW dealership & reselling them in the U.S..
F.A.S. in Harpswell Maine is a good connection for Vanagon stuff, they do the Tiilco installs, real helpful w/ exhaust parts.
Keep the pics coming !

Not many cars of that age in general in Canada. Rust. I found some exhaust stuff online. $150CAD to my door for the pipe, $350 CAD for the entire exhaust system including hardware and gaskets. $450 CAD to my door for an entire stainless system which is tempting.

Timwhy Sat Dec 14, 2019 6:51 am

old_man wrote:
Not many cars of that age in general in Canada. Rust. I found some exhaust stuff online. $150CAD to my door for the pipe, $350 CAD for the entire exhaust system including hardware and gaskets. $450 CAD to my door for an entire stainless system which is tempting.

Not far from you, Jeff can do it all.

https://www.jeffsoldvolkshome.com/

old_man Sat Dec 14, 2019 8:56 am

Timwhy wrote:
Not far from you, Jeff can do it all.

https://www.jeffsoldvolkshome.com/

I've called Jeff a couple times to see what he was like. I'm not overly interested in labour as I am in parts. Seems like a good place though.

For those you interested the transmission code is ABH. Looks like it's the correct transmission. I was wishing for code ABS which has an LSD but oh well, I guess I will have to add a peloquin to my shopping list.

E1 Sat Dec 14, 2019 9:14 am

Peloquins are wonderful. 👍🏼

I thought I knew that when installing one. Then that bus got totaled and I realized the acid test is not having one in the new van.

Or so I tell myself when getting stuck now... :wink:

old_man Sat Dec 14, 2019 1:59 pm

?Waldo? wrote:

Considering your description of performance, in that position I would install a boost gauge (even just temporarily). You can tee into the line from intake manifold to boost actuator on the injection pump.

So I did this. Interesting results. Not sure what they mean.

EDIT: Here is my guess, turbo is overpressurizing due to a stuck wastegate causing the BOV to actuate. The BOV doesn't close/reset until 6psi. Possible? I'm new to turbos.

It makes boost. Gets all the way to about 12 or 14psi (my temp gauge only goes to 10). However, if I give it more gas it just drops to 6psi and stays there. If I let off the gas and let the boost lower to less than 6psi and then give it again I get get it to go past 6psi but as soon as it hits this 14psi or whatever it just drops to 6psi. You can feel the sudden change in accelerations.

Did what I just explain make sense? What does this mean?

In the meantime I put in my new headlights.

Step 1) Purchase Morimoto Sealed7s on discount for $75 a piece.


Step 2) Out with the old.



Step 3) Test fit. I actually had to grind a tiny bit in the 3 keyed recesses. 1mm or so.



Step 4) Build some widgets


Step 5) Install widgets from previous step.


Step 6) Conduct sex change operation on DRL pigtail so it fits in to the stock parking lights socket.


Step 7) Install


Parking lights


Low beam



It's temporary until I find a more elegant solution to mount those lights to the buckets. I wasn't expecting to have to make widgets, I thought they would just hook right up.

Broseph Stalin Sat Dec 14, 2019 4:34 pm

old_man wrote: So today was the beginning of the rust proofing but first, a couple of things to get out of the way.

I bought some LM diesel purge and decided to try it out. Here it is running through the system. I feel like it started to idle nicer but that could just be it heating up. It didn't come out black like on some youtube videos.


I then changed the oil because I felt it looked disgusting. I have never owned a diesel, does it normally get this black. It looked like ink.


Here is my set up for spraying all the cavities. I elected to use Fluid Film because I like it's performance, I can get it locally, and it doesn't stink. I found heating it helps it flow so I bought a Star Wars crock pot at the local Value Village for $7.


Here is the front. I wanted to get all inside.


The door. I removed the door switch, a grommet at the back, and the vent thing in the actual door. I've been using a combination of the factory manual for rust proofing and my personal judgement.


In the belly I decided to remove the draws because they were in the way and he had mounted the slides incorrectly. By mounting the slides flat and on the bottom it greatly reduced it's load carrying capability. I also drilled two holes for better access. This is the only spot where i elected to drill holes.


In the rear I found some damage. I guess a nut or something stripped so the PO decided to use a block of wood for the backing to attach the side of the bumper. That was a mistake. Hint: do not use wood for auto body work, it traps moisture and rots. I now have a giant hole. Oh well.

This is the rear step up


Lots of giant cavities in behind the tail lights. I am thinking of how I could mount and intercooler and a oil cooler should the need arise.

Next is the underside.
There's better products than Fluid Film for rust. Fluid Film only covers and wears off quickly. Rustoleum Rust Eater or various Eastwood products are better.

old_man Sat Dec 14, 2019 4:57 pm

Broseph Stalin wrote: here's better products than Fluid Film for rust. Fluid Film only covers and wears off quickly. Rustoleum Rust Eater or various Eastwood products are better.

I'm not sure what Rustoleum Rust Eater is and the only Eastwood products I know are either rust converters or rust encapsulators. Fluid Film does wash off fairly easy. This is why I am only using it in cavities. It creeps really nicely there and shouldn't wash off because it is not exposed. For the underside I will be using another product that doesn't wash off as easily but doesn't creep as nicely.

When the time comes to permanently deal with the existing rust then I will most likely be using rust converters, rust encapsulators, sand blasting, and cut and weld. For the time being, however, I am sticking to rust proofing products to prevent the further spread of rust in areas where there is already some and so stop rust from happening in other areas.

?Waldo? Sat Dec 14, 2019 8:30 pm

old_man wrote: ?Waldo? wrote:

Considering your description of performance, in that position I would install a boost gauge (even just temporarily). You can tee into the line from intake manifold to boost actuator on the injection pump.

So I did this. Interesting results. Not sure what they mean.

EDIT: Here is my guess, turbo is overpressurizing due to a stuck wastegate causing the BOV to actuate. The BOV doesn't close/reset until 6psi. Possible? I'm new to turbos.

It makes boost. Gets all the way to about 12 or 14psi (my temp gauge only goes to 10). However, if I give it more gas it just drops to 6psi and stays there. If I let off the gas and let the boost lower to less than 6psi and then give it again I get get it to go past 6psi but as soon as it hits this 14psi or whatever it just drops to 6psi. You can feel the sudden change in accelerations.

Did what I just explain make sense? What does this mean?

Yup, your diagnosis is spot on. Impressive for a turbo-diesel newby. :D That sounds exactly like what will happen if the wastegate sticks and the intake manifold is equipped with a BOV. The diaphragm within the wasteage actuator could also have failed. In either case, it sounds like the wastegate is not doing it's job and the overboost is resulting in the BOV popping open.

If the wastegate is stuck you might be able to get it unstuck by removing the metal line, spraying in some penetrant, and applying short bursts of ~20 psi of pressure. Otherwise, you're looking at pulling it. After the turbo is off you need to pull the three allen bolts that hold the wastgate to the turbine housing. Use a 6mm allen bit with a 1/4" 6 pt box wrench. A lot of heat can also help. If you need another k14 wastegate, let me know. I have a working used one I would sell for cheap.

old_man Sun Dec 15, 2019 3:03 am

?Waldo? wrote:

Yup, your diagnosis is spot on. Impressive for a turbo-diesel newby.



Thanks. I try.

?Waldo? wrote:
:D That sounds exactly like what will happen if the wastegate sticks and the intake manifold is equipped with a BOV. The diaphragm within the wasteage actuator could also have failed. In either case, it sounds like the wastegate is not doing it's job and the overboost is resulting in the BOV popping open.

If the wastegate is stuck you might be able to get it unstuck by removing the metal line, spraying in some penetrant, and applying short bursts of ~20 psi of pressure. Otherwise, you're looking at pulling it. After the turbo is off you need to pull the three allen bolts that hold the wastgate to the turbine housing. Use a 6mm allen bit with a 1/4" 6 pt box wrench. A lot of heat can also help. If you need another k14 wastegate, let me know. I have a working used one I would sell for cheap.


I will try the penetrant/air pressure trick. If that doesn't work I guess I will pull everythign and replace the wastegate. Pulling the turbo is going to be a pain. It looks like the bolts and nuts are welded on with rust. I forsee breakage. PM me the details/price of your wastegate. From what I have read trying to get it free usually ends up in something breaking. I'm also tempted to repalce the cartridge while I am in there would that be prudent or excessive? Ordinarily I would just diassemble everything, order what I need, wait 2 weeks, and then reassemble but I kind of want to get this thing on the road sooner than later.

WestyBob Sun Dec 15, 2019 10:20 am

OP -- great sinka and love the color. A German flyer I have calls what you have a Grossraum-Pritschenwagen with that factory extra wide and long bed box. I'd keep that (box) stock for value as well as function. Pretty rare - haven't seen another in NA in person yet.

old_man Sun Dec 15, 2019 12:02 pm

WestyBob wrote: OP -- great sinka and love the color. A German flyer I have calls what you have a Grossraum-Pritschenwagen with that factory extra wide and long bed box. I'd keep that (box) stock for value as well as function. Pretty rare - haven't seen another in NA in person yet.

I agree on all points. I actually found an old flyer for it. It's factory, is useful, it's original, it's rare........but it's ugly! That's my only issue with it.

Speaking of which, anyone know where I can find a used set of sinka drop sides/tail gate? Should I not change my mind about it's ugliness.

WestyBob Sun Dec 15, 2019 1:20 pm

old_man wrote: WestyBob wrote: OP -- great sinka and love the color. A German flyer I have calls what you have a Grossraum-Pritschenwagen with that factory extra wide and long bed box. I'd keep that (box) stock for value as well as function. Pretty rare - haven't seen another in NA in person yet.

I agree on all points. I actually found an old flyer for it. It's factory, is useful, it's original, it's rare........but it's ugly! That's my only issue with it.

Speaking of which, anyone know where I can find a used set of sinka drop sides/tail gate? Should I not change my mind about it's ugliness.

I guess it depends on how you intend to use -- work truck or drive to visit the Queen in your silk tux when she visits or somewhere in between ?

outcaststudios Sun Dec 15, 2019 1:28 pm

looks almost identical mechanically to my 1.6td doka. you will probably want to leave those drawers in the treasure chests, they look well done( also westfalia?) the ball hitch and socket are also the same in my doka, the ball is about 30 mm i havent tried finding a receiver for it yet, i guess ill have to find a euro trailer to go with :lol: awesome ride!

old_man Sun Dec 15, 2019 1:52 pm

outcaststudios wrote: looks almost identical mechanically to my 1.6td doka. you will probably want to leave those drawers in the treasure chests, they look well done( also westfalia?) the ball hitch and socket are also the same in my doka, the ball is about 30 mm i havent tried finding a receiver for it yet, i guess ill have to find a euro trailer to go with :lol: awesome ride!

Drawers are already gone! They were not well done. Buddy mounted the slides incorrecly so they couldn't support any weights. I can still put them back but would have to change the way the slides are mounted.

I haven't bothered to measure the ball yet. That is unfortunate it is not a common North American size nor that I can change the ball out.



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