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Eric&Barb Sat Dec 28, 2019 4:33 pm

Mark Evans wrote: I would anchor the car down and try to pull out the dent rather than push with a jack against another part of the car. You could create more damage against an already straight side.

Ditto.

flyboy161 Sat Dec 28, 2019 4:33 pm

Itís a distribution of imbalanced force with a jack. It wonít damage the other side. Larger surface area on the foot. Smaller on the head of the jack. Means more lbs per square inch on the head side. Simple physics.

But, Iím not here to argue. Do as you wish. Good luck

b-man Sat Dec 28, 2019 5:04 pm

In instances where the damage is somewhat lighter than weíre seeing in the car thatís the subject of this thread, I can see that using various jacks with proper backing and blocking would suffice.

However from what I can see the damage extends a bit further than can be repaired by using a jack inside the spare tire well. A professional with the right equipment and experience can pull that out nicely without the need for panel replacement. Iím pretty sure that same body work pro would also appreciate working on it as it sits now before an amateur attempt at fixing it muddies the waters.

Chickensoup Sun Dec 29, 2019 3:02 pm

So I made progress today even though it was muggy and nasty outside. Using the hammer while the metal is under tension helped a lot. Now it looks like next is to tackle the wrinkles. What's the best way to do that? Is that when a hammer and a dolly comes in to play? I'd say that the biggest wrinkle is about 3 quarters of an inch out of place. Here's before and after and pics of the wrinkles. It's very hard to get the actually damage shown in the image so your free to exagerate of how bad it really is,

After


Before

Before

After

Chickensoup Sun Dec 29, 2019 3:06 pm

Here's the wrinkles.

Eric&Barb Sun Dec 29, 2019 3:56 pm

That looks really good! Yes once you have the heavy pulling and pulling smaller dents with the stud gun, then it is hammer and dolly to work out the rest. Biggest mistake for newbs is hammering hard directly over the dolly. That can all too easily cause the steel to be hammered stretching it thinner and in turn cause the metal to warp up into a dome. So if you need to really hit an area hard, keep the dolly off to one side to help support the metal just off from the wrinkle. In other words you need to use finesse as much as possible, not just brute strength. If you get frustrated, and can not figure out what to do next. Do yourself a favor and walk away for a day or a week, and take sometime to do research in the "Body/Paint" forum on this web site and do check out body work videos on Youtube..

Here is a shrinking disc we use to shrink down stretched areas of sheet steel, it does work like magic:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X8cruauERmI

This fellow has a good collection of body working videos with little to no filler, especially the 8-10 years ago ones:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LdLDOkEPFgA

Hopefully you might be able to fix the original hood.

flyboy161 Sun Dec 29, 2019 3:57 pm

Looks a lot better. Keep hammering away. Fender and dolly can be used at this point, but Iíd keep doing whatever force method you were doing before. I use fender and dolly for finish work. But thatís just me

Chickensoup Sun Dec 29, 2019 4:09 pm

yah, you wouldn't believe how i did it. i ended up using a com-a-long attached to a bush hog that just happened to be laying next to my bug. then i took a ratchet strap and connected that to my burn pile and went from there. once i would tighten the com-a-long it would lift the bush hog so i would get up and push the pto end down towards the ground and i repeated until i was satisfied. it was sketchy, but worth it.

ALSO, would anyone happen to have a similar picture of the last one that i posted to i have a reference?

thanks

flyboy161 Sun Dec 29, 2019 5:42 pm

Similar, minus the conduit holes

Chickensoup Wed Jan 01, 2020 8:39 am

hey guys, so what should my OG gas tank look like? i have two, the one in the pictures is from my 66 while the other came with the car. the other has a different cap, and has a flat/straight edge/corner.

thanks

Helfen Wed Jan 01, 2020 9:36 am

Chickensoup wrote: hey guys, so what should my OG gas tank look like? i have two, the one in the pictures is from my 66 while the other came with the car. the other has a different cap, and has a flat/straight edge/corner.

thanks

The original cap has VW stamped in big letters.

hitest Wed Jan 01, 2020 10:04 am

Just a couple notes to add and clarify..

In '65- a deluxe beetle's VIN would not start with "113"- it would start with "115"

Column locks were available options on North American- shipped beetles too. Thus cannot be the only factor in determining importation without a BC.

But, if the headlight wires look like the specific wires to the parking lights were added on- it may be a Euro model. In a Euro model- the parking light wires would be the same length as the 3 HL wires.

Looking good on the apron work.

Helfen Wed Jan 01, 2020 11:55 am

hitest wrote: Just a couple notes to add and clarify..

In '65- a deluxe beetle's VIN would not start with "113"- it would start with "115"

Column locks were available options on North American- shipped beetles too. Thus cannot be the only factor in determining importation without a BC.

But, if the headlight wires look like the specific wires to the parking lights were added on- it may be a Euro model. In a Euro model- the parking light wires would be the same length as the 3 HL wires.

Looking good on the apron work.

A 65 type 115 would be a 1200"A" ( former standard ) ragtop sunroof.

Chickensoup Wed Jan 01, 2020 1:58 pm

Here's another question. How do I remove the top two switches above the radio opening? I cant seem to remember how I removed the ones off of my 66. I was able to remove them without the special tool.


I marked the pans today for when I weld in the floor although I'll most likely be replacing the while passenger side pan. I also started disassembly.

Eric&Barb Wed Jan 01, 2020 2:17 pm

Chickensoup wrote: Here's another question. How do I remove the top two switches above the radio opening? I cant seem to remember how I removed the ones off of my 66. I was able to remove them without the special tool.

If the nuts are not fully corroded up.

1. Reach thru the radio hole with one hand and with other hand manipulate the nut. Turn the switch slightly CCW from your view till it hits the stop bumps in the dash, then hold the nut still and turn the switch CW till it hits the stops.

2. Then turn the switch CCW and turn the nut with it.

3. Repeat 1 & 2 till the nut is removed.

Chickensoup Wed Jan 01, 2020 3:55 pm

Here's one clean wiring harness. Surprisingly there isn't any bad corrosion on the wire ends although a few connectors are missing but I've got plenty of brass ones ready for instal. I'll be replacing that obnoxious hardened plastic outer sleeve with a softer one.


Also if anyone wants this I'll give it to em cheap. When I was reading apparantly alot of 356's came with these or had them added.

hitest Wed Jan 01, 2020 4:15 pm

Helfen wrote: hitest wrote: Just a couple notes to add and clarify..

In '65- a deluxe beetle's VIN would not start with "113"- it would start with "115"

Column locks were available options on North American- shipped beetles too. Thus cannot be the only factor in determining importation without a BC.

But, if the headlight wires look like the specific wires to the parking lights were added on- it may be a Euro model. In a Euro model- the parking light wires would be the same length as the 3 HL wires.

Looking good on the apron work.

A 65 type 115 would be a 1200"A" ( former standard ) ragtop sunroof.

Reminder Helfen- VW eventually changed to the more "international" method of including the car's model year IN the VIN. The 1st model year that started: 1965

Chickensoup Thu Jan 02, 2020 1:20 pm

What are these seals? Are they for bug or bus? They came in a box of engine parts a while back.

Smurf Thu Jan 02, 2020 1:41 pm

Chickensoup wrote: What are these seals? Are they for bug or bus? They came in a box of engine parts a while back.


Top one looks like hood seal. Middle looks like it fits in engine seal channel but not sure. Bottom looks like pop out pinch welt

Mark Evans Thu Jan 02, 2020 4:32 pm

Both look like popout seals.



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