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Smurf Thu Jan 02, 2020 4:40 pm

Mark Evans wrote: Both look like popout seals.

Now that you say that...I see it. The middle looks like pop out window seals

Chickensoup Sat Jan 04, 2020 2:49 pm

Today I replaced my flat rear tires with some baja style ones with big meats so I can roll the car easier. BUT, I also tried to remove my door and it's real not being nice. I have an impact screwdriver and even that's not working. Unless I'm using it wrong. So what can I do?

Thanks


67rustavenger Sat Jan 04, 2020 4:25 pm

Heat is your friend here. Heat the fastener and place the long impact bit into the screw. Smack the bit with a hammer. HARD! Let things cool down. Then go back with the impact driver and twist it before hitting it with the hammer. It should pop loose.

I stripped a car with the owner of Avery's Air Cooled a couple of years ago. Jason just used a large phillips bit with a 3/8" extension to get those door screws loose. He just inserted the bit into the screw. Smacked the end of the extension with a hammer and used a ratchet to turn the door screws out, while applying force on the end of the ratchet.

You only get one chance with the impact driver. Make it count!

Good Luck.

Helfen Sun Jan 05, 2020 10:00 am

67rustavenger wrote: Heat is your friend here. Heat the fastener and place the long impact bit into the screw. Smack the bit with a hammer. HARD! Let things cool down. Then go back with the impact driver and twist it before hitting it with the hammer. It should pop loose.

I stripped a car with the owner of Avery's Air Cooled a couple of years ago. Jason just used a large phillips bit with a 3/8" extension to get those door screws loose. He just inserted the bit into the screw. Smacked the end of the extension with a hammer and used a ratchet to turn the door screws out, while applying force on the end of the ratchet.

You only get one chance with the impact driver. Make it count!

Good Luck.

And make sure that screwdriver shank is a #3

calvinater Sun Jan 05, 2020 10:08 am

I believe it is a #4 phillips.

Chickensoup Sun Jan 05, 2020 10:15 am

calvinater wrote: I believe it is a #4 phillips.

that helps. although how do i tell what number it is?

Helfen Sun Jan 05, 2020 10:15 am

calvinater wrote: I believe it is a #4 phillips.
not the one in the picture

Helfen Sun Jan 05, 2020 10:18 am

Chickensoup wrote: calvinater wrote: I believe it is a #4 phillips.

that helps. although how do i tell what number it is?

You go to the Snap-On guy or hardware store and ask for one that fits your impact driver

Eric&Barb Sun Jan 05, 2020 7:17 pm

Correct size of apex is absolutely critical. Also try to TIGHTEN the fastener SLIGHTLY before trying to loosen. That can crush the rust in the threads into dust and then the rust that was expanded in the treads does not take up so much room that the screw is no longer a press fit in there.

Chickensoup Fri Jan 10, 2020 6:03 pm

UPDATE- sorry, i know its been a while but schools back in session. i got those pain in the but crank gears off for my 1776 build and i also polished the crankshaft. i need to order 2 parts, clean my galleys and plug them back up, and get my heads bored out. Then i can start assembly and drive around the yard :D 8) ill post some pics tomorrow if i have time. but if have to say, I AM a believer in heat after using a torch to remove the gears. it really did work like magic. im going to try heat on my door bolts as one of you guys advised.

Question- im going EFI so could i leave the distributor drive gear off or does it need to be installed in order to keep the timing gear in place:? and yes, i haven't forgot about the spacer.

Chickensoup Sun Jan 12, 2020 2:53 pm

Last night I stopped by horror freight and bought a 9.5mm drill bit and enlarged my oil galleys with my drill press.. Everything turned out amazing! I'm not sure if I still want to do the the hoover mods yet. I used mineral oil for lube. Now I just need to clean the hell out of it, and drill and tap the ends.


Chickensoup Tue Feb 04, 2020 4:00 pm

Ya, i know its been a while. So, ive got a few new questions and a few updates.

1. lucky me earned enough money to restore my chassis and finish my engine. :D right now im waiting for cip1 to get some items back in stock. they says it will be about a month to get what i need. ill post a picture/s of my cart later to show whats going into the chassis. but, for a brief description, im gonna narrow the beam 2 inches, install adjuster, use a mix of urethane and rubber components, kyb rear, empi shocks up front, big meats in the rear, biggerish later in life up front, stock shifter, stock sway bar for now, stock brakes for now, stock master cylinder for now( ill go dual circuit when i can afford disc brake up front, much more im missing but none that matters performance wise.

2. ive gone through the car and found every last bit of rust. its got some, but all stuff i can do with ease. The Body work is whats keeping me up at night. im planning on removing the passenger fron side panel and fixing that since its mostly straight.... well, not really but ill try. as for the drivers, all i need is a small nose section plus an apron.

heres the rust, pics dont include the passenger heater channel bottom though,



and thats it :D :D


so, should i even attempt hammering this out??? looks pretty darn crinkly but what do i know. im still learning my body work stuff.



EWWWW!!!! klocker Holm stuff is god awful!! But hey, 15 bucks shipped is 15 bucks shipped.



ill be attempting to fix my steering wheel on one of my rainy days.




visible spot welds from factory



And umm.... well, this is really embarrassing but im behind a computer screen so that makes it half as bad right? :lol: heres my mess up, i know, it looks terrible but im gonna try to fix it once i remove the panel.




one last thing for tonight. These super light, flemsy mexican fenders are really messed up. im thinking i could use the lip where the bolt holes are and transplant them onto my passenger german front fender b/c a small section of mine is rusted through. should i even bother?

thank you in advance

edit- heres a link to the parts. i already have alot of parts in case you think im crazy for thinking i can get this done with only a few hundred dolarinos.

Eric&Barb Tue Feb 04, 2020 4:11 pm

Chickensoup wrote:
so, should i even attempt hammering this out??? looks pretty darn crinkly but what do i know. im still learning my body work stuff.

Either that or take it to someplace that will do it for your for $$$$. Do you have a shrinking disc yet??

Chickensoup Tue Feb 04, 2020 4:16 pm

Eric&Barb wrote: Chickensoup wrote:
so, should i even attempt hammering this out??? looks pretty darn crinkly but what do i know. im still learning my body work stuff.

Either that or take it to someplace that will do it for your for $$$$. Do you have a shrinking disc yet??

i honestly dont even know how a shrinking disc work yet. i knew this would need lots of shrinking but i wasnt sure what method to use. are you talking about these?



not sure why the title of the product says "Porsche 356" lol. coincidence? or is it the government spying on me? :shock: :shock:

67ctbug Tue Feb 04, 2020 4:36 pm

Wait why are you replacing the A pillar? It looks just fine.

Eric&Barb Tue Feb 04, 2020 6:27 pm

Chickensoup wrote:
i honestly dont even know how a shrinking disc work yet. i knew this would need lots of shrinking but i wasnt sure what method to use. are you talking about these?

not sure why the title of the product says "Porsche 356" lol. coincidence? or is it the government spying on me? :shock: :shock:


Yes, here are a few videos about shrinking discs on a website called youtube.com:

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=shrinking+disc+video

This fellow has a good collection of videos on bodyworking, especially the 8-10 years ago ones that show little to no filler needed:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LdLDOkEPFgA

Just the online Big Brothers keeping track of you!

Chickensoup Tue Feb 04, 2020 6:35 pm

67ctbug wrote: Wait why are you replacing the A pillar? It looks just fine.

look closer. The PO had put this 67 model door on and didnt fasten it properly. as a result, he bent outer metal and opened up a rust pit on the lower right corner. And yes, im only using a small piece of it.

Chickensoup Sat Feb 15, 2020 3:44 pm

Today I started the prep for assembling my short block. All that's left is to finish tapping my oil galleys, clean the case, balance rods and pistons, and drill for 8 dowel on the crank side. Here's what been done so far.

Step 1, I made sure I had a clean work bench to place newly cleaned items.


Here's me scrubadubing my dirty parts with engine degreaser.


After wiping then down with paper towels and then blowing them off with an air compressor, I let them bathe in the sun for extra meassure.



VERY IMPORTANT FOR IAP USERS!!! on the back side of the iap steel straight cut gears, you will notice that the edge is a little rough wit metal shavings still bonded to it. I wouldn't trust this so I simply took sand paper and took it down so it was nice and free from degree.




When I was done, I lightly covered any steel or rustable parts with assembly oil.
I should have the shirt block assembled tomarow if I have time. :D

Rome Sat Feb 15, 2020 6:08 pm

Hood: Definitely try gently hitting the dents out with hammer + dolly. You can buy a cheap "contour gauge", set it for the curves/shape of the passenger side of the hood, then hammer to get the contour to match using the gauge.

From your 1st page:
Euro-spec Beetle would've had the 2-color taillamp lenses. If you have them, keep them because the amber turn signal lens is more visible than the red colored US-spec ones.

Euro-spec headlights- quite possible, but also likely they were converted to sealed beam US-spec when the car was first imported and underwent its state inspection. Don't try to find Euro-spec headlights. Just find good used German made US-spec ones and fit a good headlight unit to them.

Narrowed front beam? Why? That's money out the window. You can keep the Porsche 356-style 4.5" rims with the stock beam, unless you are buying front disc brakes that add width to the front axle. There is a kit available that is a "zero offset" disc brake kit but is offered only for stock-height front spindles. With such a kit you can keep the stock beam.

Your Euro-typical ignition switch at the right of the steering column is in sad shape. The key cylinder/back of the unit had detached and is hanging from the dash bottom by the wiring harness. Instead of trying to fix this or find another one, just fit a conventional US-spec Beetle ignition switch to the dash that goes into the hole to the left of the ashtray. Pull the harness up through the dash bottom and just fasten the wires to the US switch.

You've probably realized that your engine lid is from a later Beetle; looks like a '68 or '69 but could be a '67 which has a different bulge shape. It'll work to get your car on the road and through inspection (if applicable) so that the engine is covered, but it looks really improvised. You can use a '64 or '66 engine lid.

Left rear fender: Hammer and dolly those dents out, then clean the cracked metal joint and weld a bead to seal it back up.

Engine: Will you be fitting a doghouse fan shroud and oil cooler? Engine case does not have the bolt insert at the upper left fastener location. If you use a doghouse, you will barely be able to get your hand/wrench in the narrow space between firewall and front of the shroud for the 17mm nut (M10 x 1.5 thread pitch). That's why VW cases for doghouse shrouds got those inserts so that you just had to slip the bolt in near the clutch arm and tighten it.

If you will be using a non-doghouse shroud, then you have no issues because you have plenty of room for your hand to get the nut onto the bolt.

Body color: Roof and right quarter panel do look like Fontana Grey, but the interior dash looks like Pearl White.

Adriel Rowley Sat Feb 15, 2020 8:17 pm

Rome wrote: You can use a '64 or '66 engine lid.

1964 is one year only as has the wide license lamp with a T handle, where 1965 got the push button handle.

Myself rather the button as the T can snap and swing all the way around, can be fiddly. Plus, Volkswagen must have had a reason for changing.



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