TheSamba.com :: View topic - Finally had a productive weekend on the rail

Tue Feb 11, 2020 6:24 pm

It was a busy weekend last weekend but a productive one. Got the rail down on the wheels (and found out I can't use the wheels I had hoped). Got most of the front bumper tacked in as well as all but one of the triangulation bars along the frame. I also fit the fuel tank/trunk and figured out how to mount it. I've still got to add the vertical bars to the front bumper and tack in the last triangulation bar then I'm starting on the floor. Once I finalize the needed electronics I can start wiring and plumbing. Then it all gets blown back apart for final welding, grinding, sand blast and paint. I'm hoping to have it moving under it's own power by April-ish. I've decided to save the Subaru engine for the next build and just run the VW engine and trans. Trying to build for both is slowing things down too much.

The front bumper is only tacked in because I'm on the fence on whether to run the top bar angled up like it is or run it parallel to the bottom bar. It will have three 1" bars connecting both bars and I'll be building a bolt on tow bar that bolts to the front beam. What do you think.

Tue Feb 11, 2020 6:26 pm

If anyone is looking for a front bumper I got this one from Speedway for $40. It is the two bars already bent (but more than 1' too wide) a few short 1" tubes and 2 brackets. Can't beat it for the price.

Wed Feb 12, 2020 11:10 am

Wouldn't you want both of those front bumpers to be straight ahead and flat. If that top one takes impact from straight ahead, its really not going to do too much to stop whatever you're hitting, as it looks like it would just bend back towards the driver. If you put the 1" bars in between them, I would think it would just make them both kinda hinge back if they take a front impact. Just my thoughts.

Wed Feb 12, 2020 1:31 pm

kangaboy wrote: Wouldn't you want both of those front bumpers to be straight ahead and flat. If that top one takes impact from straight ahead, its really not going to do too much to stop whatever you're hitting, as it looks like it would just bend back towards the driver. If you put the 1" bars in between them, I would think it would just make them both kinda hinge back if they take a front impact. Just my thoughts.

In my opinion, which is not worth much. I would have a larger bumper at an angle similar to what you have. If you have a front impact I would want the bumper to fold and absorb as much energy as possible before transferring the impact to the frame (like a crush zone in newer cars). This is a lot easier on the frame and passengers. It is easier to replace a bumper than frame repair. Also that bumper is stronger than you think when it is braced. Norm

Wed Feb 12, 2020 8:38 pm

That was kind of my thinking Norm. The bumper is thinner walled (about .060) than the rest of the frame (.120) so it will absorb some impact energy. I also made the top bar stick out further so that if I hit something in the road it will want to either go under the rail or push me up and over it instead of sending it up over the front of the frame. I'm still on t he fence about having the top bar pointing up instead of parallel to the bottom tube. I got the steering figured out today and may be able to use the wheels I have on there instead of having to buy a 3rd set. The tie rods are 1" .120 wall 4130 chromoly so they should be plenty strong enough even in the Y setup I have them in.

Sat Jun 27, 2020 4:44 pm

I've made a few separate posts on specific topics of the progress I've been making but thought I should do a bigger update on the rail.The floor is now in so it allowed me to move forward with a bunch of other stuff. The seats and shifter/hydraulic handbrake box mounted.
I got the front bumper finished mostly finished. The vertical bars are in but I still need to add the light buckets for the front DRL/turn signals. My step dad (retired electrical engineer) was in town this week and helped me get the wiring and lighting sorted out. The main chassis harness is done but I still need to finish the engine and rear light harnesses. Waiting on more material to come in for that.
I was also able to get the rear cage welded together last weekend. I used the heavy duty Empi rear cage, cut it all apart and welded it back together a little differently. Stock the cage was to wide, too long and too short to fit how I wanted. I also used overlapping joints so the cage will unbolt easily. I started welding in the light buckets on there too. Got 3 of the 4 done today. They're not easy but do look damn good. All the lights are recessed and will have opaque lenses on a white frame so They'll hide pretty well until the lights are on. The turn signals are chasers and I'm setting them up so that the lights chase up, down and whichever way I'm turning. Once the lights come in I'll make a video of everything.
To make the light buckets I used 5/8" square tubing and cut it in half. I then cut a slot in the bar and welded the channel in place. After sanding it out I welded in some tabs to help hold the lights in and as guide for the wiring. Most of the wiring in the rail is run through the tubes. I'm sure I'll get a few comments about doing that but oh well. It's mine and I'm nuilding it how I want. welding in the buckets actually helps stiffen the tube and most of the buckets are in non structural tubes anyway. Not the greatest pics of the buckets and lights but it should give you a good idea.
I'm still waiting on the parts back from the machine shop so I can finish the steering column/shaft. I'm using a stock steering box but with a u-joint instead of a rag joint. on the other side of the u-joint is a few inches of 1" solid round to stiff the connection between the u-joint and 1.25" tubing that makes up most of the steering shaft. At the other end is another 1" solid bar that is supported by two needle bearings with a steering wheel quick connect at the end. I'm using the switch turn signal stalk and assembly from a WRX which will control my headlights, high beams, turn signals and hazards. I'll even be able to keep the self canceling function. The only thing I couldn't get to work was the horn because of the detachable steering wheel. I'm going to put a horn button in the shifter console.
All the other controls and gauges will run through an app called RealDash. The data for that comes from an Arduino microcontroller and is switched through a 12 channel relay board. The seat heaters, wiper, light bar, DRL, whip lights and underbody lights are all controlled in the app.
I just checked the mail and my wiper came in. I should be able to get that mounted and the last bucket in the engine cage and the two in the front bumper done tomorrow. Here's some pics of the work so far.

Sat Jun 27, 2020 4:48 pm

There will be 6 of those lights in the rear of the frame and two in the front. 4 of the rear are red tail/brake lights and amber chasing turn signals. The other two in the rear are white reverse and amber chasing turn lights. The two in the front are white daytime running light and amber chasing turn signals. As you can see they don't draw much power.

Sun Jun 28, 2020 4:34 pm

I like how you did the rear lights, Ive been wanting to do something similiar on my baja. If you dont mind me asking where did you get the lights from?

Sun Jun 28, 2020 4:43 pm

The lights are from ebay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/30cm-White-Amber-Car-LED-...2749.l2649
I used the same style in the Cadillac vents on my truck probably a year and a half ago and haven't had any issues with them. Getting the buckets flushed in is a pain in the ass but they'd work fine stuck to the bars.