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Sat Apr 11, 2020 2:08 am

Hi from Arrowtown New Zealand. It has been one year since I bought my 1990 Sinka (RHD, 2.1 petrol, manual, two wheel drive), from Australia.

I have given the body a tidy up, sprayed out the deck and dropsides with Raptor deck liner, the next mission is to repower it with a 2.8 litre VR6 motor.

I have bought a 1997 VW VR6 Golf auto donor car and an adaptor/flywheel combo from KEP
In NZ we are attempting to beat the terrible Covid 19 virus by having a one month (maybe more) total Lockdown. During this time I intend to part out the donor car and prep the motor for it's new life.

I have researched VR6 T3/T25 engine swap with limited success, (Good info on The Samba, ""91 Carat VR6 Project _The Build"), great contrbutors on this thread. Another goody was Syncromark, but his website with more stuff on it has disappeared.

I am still looking for info on wiring and general stuff for this swap. I am going to use the VR6 computer, wiring and immobiliser etc.

Any info on this swap would be a great help.
Cheers Brett

Sat Apr 11, 2020 3:51 am

While not a direct help there are quite a few TDI swaps that keep all the computer/immobilizer stuff. They are from the mid-late 90s era as well. That should provide you with some help an ideas.

Sat Apr 11, 2020 4:19 am

That's the sexiest sounding engine choice you've made.

Wiring that engine will be a slam dunk, very much the same as an old obd2 ABA. You could probably leave out things like the LDP or SAI etc. It should not have an imobilizer, too old.

Remove the sinka engine and harness, keep the tailight harness and accessories plug harness. You'll have left a +15 black, +30 red and an X line red/black, some others like black/blue, Yellow, Green etc from the tail light and accessories plug harness. Install the VR, remove the harness from it's donor carefully and methodically from the ecm/ECU to the engine. If you can simply swap without cutting, splicing, lengthening or shortening that's best! Fewer chanced of cold solder or future Gremlins. If memory serves me, you'll have 5-6 wires from the VR to the Sinka to interface the 3 noted above and some of the accessories.

Make sure you have both Bentley manuals, your life and joy in the project will come easier!

Sat Apr 11, 2020 10:00 am

zebra63 wrote: .... the next mission is to repower it with a 2.8 litre VR6 motor.

I have bought a 1997 VW VR6 Golf auto donor car and an adaptor/flywheel combo from KEP

I have researched VR6 T3/T25 engine swap with limited success, (Good info on The Samba,

I am still looking for info on wiring and general stuff for this swap. I am going to use the VR6 computer, wiring and immobiliser etc.

I can safely say "we" would love to see pics of your project!

Try using Mk2, A2 Mk1 VR6 in search terms.

VR into Mk2 threads will likely show use of related fuse panels, plugs, but IIRC, the VR6 swap here you refer to used the VR6 fuse box.

This ECU pin out table is useful:

http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/management/motronicvr6aba.html

Inspect required Sinka and VR harness wires for corrosion. IMO, shunting in new wires now is best.

Understanding that relays like fuel pump, HO2S are turned on by a provided ground from ECU, is helpful. There's info here, online, showing how to read the Bentley wiring diagrams.

If your donor harness has a lot of corroded wires, and you can find a nice OBD1 harness/ECU, that might be an option. IMO, there's pros and cons to either OBD1 or OBD2.

Stagger wire splices, would suggest heat shrink type butt connectors if not soldering wires.

Neil.

Sat Apr 11, 2020 2:50 pm

Thanks for the response team. This info is gold. Anyone else?

Sat Apr 11, 2020 4:48 pm

Sorry I have no technical info to share but I do have a couple photos I took of a sweet Syncro Doka with VR6. Maybe some inspiration?
These were taken at a Vanagon group meeting at White Salmon back in '08.

Again, I have no info about who's truck, here's the only other pic I have.
Anyone know the rig?

Sat Apr 11, 2020 8:12 pm

I love the sound of a VR6. The power delivery is infectious when in a small light sedan or coupe, but in my large lumbering EV it's kinda weird and not at all what I expect in a truck. The VR6 likes to be revved, and it's a dog below around 3k. I think it's an odd choice for a big heavy vehicle. I can't wait to remove it and swap in a proper 2.5 tdi which produces peak torque just below 2k, right where a big heavy vehicle needs it to move and maintain momentum.

Sun Apr 12, 2020 7:17 am

That is a really clean install. I didnt realize the engine is so short. It makes sense though if they can stuff it in front of a TT.

I agree the VR6 loves to rev. The lady's TT-S is a fun car to drive. Very zoomy. I don't think its a dog below 3k though. If you want to drive a car with no torque below 3k, drive an rx8. Lots of fun above 6000rpm but you're slipping the clutch from 2k to get it to move. I still miss mine.

Sun Apr 12, 2020 11:34 am

Zeitgeist 13 wrote: I love the sound of a VR6. The power delivery is infectious when in a small light sedan or coupe, but in my large lumbering EV it's kinda weird and not at all what I expect in a truck. The VR6 likes to be revved, and it's a dog below around 3k. I think it's an odd choice for a big heavy vehicle. I can't wait to remove it and swap in a proper 2.5 tdi which produces peak torque just below 2k, right where a big heavy vehicle needs it to move and maintain momentum.
Maybe, but in a Sinka? As long as he's not hauling freight the truck should boogie. I test drove some Audii TTs with the VR6 before I choose a 225 1.8t.
Really nice, lots of power, but the lighter 4 pot 1.8t handles better in the TT.

Also drove a Doka with 225 1.8t. That was really sweet! And maybe an easier install and better ground clearance?

Sun Apr 12, 2020 6:06 pm

Oh no doubt. A fairly light Sinka should really scoot with a VR6. Plus there's lots of aftermarket support for the engine. I really like them, but just not in a truck. I'd love to have one in my old Mars red '81 Scirocco.

Tue Feb 02, 2021 1:41 am

Good things take time . . .
I have got my VR6 (2.8, 12v out of a 1997 Golf) installed in my Sinka.
The only thing to do is the wiring.
An Auto Sparky is coming in two week's time to try to sort out the wiring so that we can fire it up.
I have forwarded him all the info on this page and lots more. Hopefully he has got his head around it.
The donor Golf was imported from Japan. It has no SAI but has an immobiliser which we will have to work with.
The donor had an automatic transmission (my Sinka is manual), so will have to do a few mods to the ecu to trick it into being a manual.
If anyone has got any further info on the wiring mods we have to do, I would love to hear about it.
Attached are some photos of 'The Flat White'.
Cheers Brett

Tue Feb 02, 2021 8:05 am

That's a bit cramped but fits surprisingly well for how big of a displacement increase it is. Looks great.

Tue Feb 02, 2021 8:45 am

It's nice to see the aluminum t-stat housing and crackpipe. I recall that the SA five cyls used a thick trans stiffener along the top spine. I assume this was due to the extra weight and higher center of gravity.

Wed Feb 03, 2021 11:31 am

There is quite a bit of room in there, however with the top engine access hatch being smaller than the vanagon hatch and offset to the left (to accommodate the JX diesel engines I guess), it is slightly awkward to get at things.
However, this is made up for by the excellent access through the rear facing hatch the vanagons don't have.