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Qldelsie Mon Apr 20, 2020 4:37 am

My Aussie 1970 Fastback has the clear plastic lens in the bottom of the 3 bulb light cluster at the rear where a back up light would be fitted. (Turn indicator and stop / rear light are the two bulbs above it) However my car was not fitted with a back up light - The slot is there in the housing, but no bulb or wiring etc.
In the gearbox, where the back up switch would fit, there is a blank allen headed plug.
I can make up the rear light cluster to work without a problem, and do the required wiring, but can I just remove the plug in the gearbox and fit a back up switch part no 211 941 521 ? What makes a back up switch work ? Pressure, or does an existing part of the gearshift mechanism just push against the switch in order to trigger the switch and put the reverse lights on ? Does it need anything special or can I just put the switch in there and it should work ?
Thanks.
G

DHanna Mon Apr 20, 2020 6:42 am

Qldelsie wrote: My Aussie 1970 Fastback has the clear plastic lens in the bottom of the 3 bulb light cluster at the rear where a back up light would be fitted. (Turn indicator and stop / rear light are the two bulbs above it) However my car was not fitted with a back up light - The slot is there in the housing, but no bulb or wiring etc.
In the gearbox, where the back up switch would fit, there is a blank allen headed plug.
I can make up the rear light cluster to work without a problem, and do the required wiring, but can I just remove the plug in the gearbox and fit a back up switch part no 211 941 521 ? What makes a back up switch work ? Pressure, or does an existing part of the gearshift mechanism just push against the switch in order to trigger the switch and put the reverse lights on ? Does it need anything special or can I just put the switch in there and it should work ?
Thanks.
G

Yes to removing plug and replacing with switch. Switch is mechanical on/off with reverse selector. Add wire as per wiring diagram. Don't forget to put the inline fuse in.
Pick up a couple of later model tail light bases with bulb contacts

Bobnotch Mon Apr 20, 2020 12:39 pm

Qldelsie wrote: My Aussie 1970 Fastback has the clear plastic lens in the bottom of the 3 bulb light cluster at the rear where a back up light would be fitted. (Turn indicator and stop / rear light are the two bulbs above it) However my car was not fitted with a back up light - The slot is there in the housing, but no bulb or wiring etc.
In the gearbox, where the back up switch would fit, there is a blank allen headed plug.
I can make up the rear light cluster to work without a problem, and do the required wiring, but can I just remove the plug in the gearbox and fit a back up switch part no 211 941 521 ? What makes a back up switch work ? Pressure, or does an existing part of the gearshift mechanism just push against the switch in order to trigger the switch and put the reverse lights on ? Does it need anything special or can I just put the switch in there and it should work ?
Thanks.
G

I believe the hockey (shift lever inside the trans nose cone) engages the reverse light switch when shifted into reverse. So yes, pull the plug and replace with the switch, then wire as shown in the Bentley wiring diagram. If your tail light housings don't have the parts needed for the reverse lights, you'll need a different set of late housings as mentioned above.

sjbartnik Mon Apr 20, 2020 12:43 pm

Should be a nice easy add, pretty much plug & play.

Originally VW tapped reverse light power from the + side of the coil. Run a wire from coil + to one terminal of reverse light switch, then run another wire back from the other terminal of switch and you will need a Y-junction splitter to split the wire off into two wires, one to each rear bulb housing.

Do note you MUST include an inline fuse in the wire tapped off the + side of the coil, as the power supply to the coil is NOT fused. Therefore if you had an unfused backup light circuit and managed to have a short, it could smoke the 15 wire all the way back to the ignition switch.

pitargue Mon Apr 20, 2020 2:28 pm

Adding a bit from all the things that previous posters have said. (Which is all correct.)

I have a 64, with what I am assuming has the stock tranny. My nose cone didn't have the threaded part to accept the backup light switch. I swapped out the nose cone with one with the threaded hole for the backup light switch and it worked.

Now, I have to put an inline fuse in. What size fuse should be used?

sjbartnik Mon Apr 20, 2020 2:56 pm

Assuming you use the standard 21-watt bulbs, an 8 amp fuse is called for.

pitargue Mon Apr 20, 2020 3:01 pm

sjbartnik wrote: Assuming you use the standard 21-watt bulbs, an 8 amp fuse is called for.

Danke. :)

Qldelsie Mon Apr 20, 2020 3:52 pm

Perfect, thanks for your feedback. Great re the gearbox switch (I love it when things are "simple" !!)
Re the light fittings in the light housing, the little plastic fitting itself that holds the bulb is actually in there, but the metal "spring" to contact both the base of the bulb and the wire clip is missing ! So I am actually buying a light fitting complete for the T2 as they are only $8 or so, and I will just pull the metal "spring" out and push it into my existing fitting - Job done. (I looked for separate metal "springs" but can't see them anywhere.)

Re fuses, I hear you loud and clear. Based on Bobnotch's (I think) suggestion elsewhere, I have also inserted a 50 amp in line fuse in the main red cable between battery and regulator. IIRC, Bobnotch also suggested putting a second in line fuse in somewhere else, but I have forgotten where, and now I can't find that thread ! If you are out there Bobnotch, where was that second fuse to go again ? :lol: I have the second fuse ready to insert !!

Thanks again, all.
G

Bobnotch Tue Apr 21, 2020 11:20 am

Qldelsie wrote: Perfect, thanks for your feedback. Great re the gearbox switch (I love it when things are "simple" !!)
Re the light fittings in the light housing, the little plastic fitting itself that holds the bulb is actually in there, but the metal "spring" to contact both the base of the bulb and the wire clip is missing ! So I am actually buying a light fitting complete for the T2 as they are only $8 or so, and I will just pull the metal "spring" out and push it into my existing fitting - Job done. (I looked for separate metal "springs" but can't see them anywhere.)

Re fuses, I hear you loud and clear. Based on Bobnotch's (I think) suggestion elsewhere, I have also inserted a 50 amp in line fuse in the main red cable between battery and regulator. IIRC, Bobnotch also suggested putting a second in line fuse in somewhere else, but I have forgotten where, and now I can't find that thread ! If you are out there Bobnotch, where was that second fuse to go again ? :lol: I have the second fuse ready to insert !!

Thanks again, all.
G

Just the one between the coil and the back up switch as far as I know.
Not sure what you were meaning about adding an extra fuse though.

Qldelsie Tue Apr 21, 2020 4:10 pm

Bobnotch wrote:
Just the one between the coil and the back up switch as far as I know.
Not sure what you were meaning about adding an extra fuse though.

Forget the fuse between the coil and the back up switch - Different issue. A while back (I thought it was) you that wrote in another conversation that because of the way the wiring is done on these cars, for safety reasons you recommended that an in line fuse was fitted between the battery and the regulator, and then another one between ???? and ????.
I just can't remember where the second one was to go !! Was it between the regulator and the light switch ? Although that seems superfluous if I have just put one between battery and regulator.
My brain is fading fast !!
Giles
(PS Clementine went off on a flat bed to the paint shop yesterday ! New roof liner is on the spare bed laid out flat in order to get the creases out of it before it is installed :) )

Bobnotch Wed Apr 22, 2020 8:44 am

Qldelsie wrote: Bobnotch wrote:
Just the one between the coil and the back up switch as far as I know.
Not sure what you were meaning about adding an extra fuse though.

Forget the fuse between the coil and the back up switch - Different issue. A while back (I thought it was) you that wrote in another conversation that because of the way the wiring is done on these cars, for safety reasons you recommended that an in line fuse was fitted between the battery and the regulator, and then another one between ???? and ????.
I just can't remember where the second one was to go !! Was it between the regulator and the light switch ? Although that seems superfluous if I have just put one between battery and regulator.
My brain is fading fast !!
Giles
(PS Clementine went off on a flat bed to the paint shop yesterday ! New roof liner is on the spare bed laid out flat in order to get the creases out of it before it is installed :) )

OK, it was probably between the fuse box and the coil, because that wire isn't fused at all, and has power on it whenever the key is in the ON position. The idea behind fusing it, is that if it grounds out, it'll blow the fuse, rather than burn the wire up. The factory set up on all air cooled VWs is for that wire to be unfused. Doesn't matter if it's a bug, bus, ghia, type 3, or type 4 (411-412).

Qldelsie Wed Apr 22, 2020 3:48 pm

Perfect, thanks Bob. I will put the other fuse in the line to the coil.
Giles

Bobnotch Thu Apr 23, 2020 8:28 am

Qldelsie wrote: Perfect, thanks Bob. I will put the other fuse in the line to the coil.
Giles

If you do, I'd put it near the fuse box, so that if it blows, it'll save the wire from burning.

Clatter Thu Apr 23, 2020 8:44 am

Bobnotch wrote: Qldelsie wrote: Perfect, thanks Bob. I will put the other fuse in the line to the coil.
Giles

If you do, I'd put it near the fuse box, so that if it blows, it'll save the wire from burning.

Bob,

You put a fuse in-line on 'Old Crispy'?
(Our name for the black un-fused wire to the coil+ )

50A ?

I'm still trying to fathom why mother VW chose not to fuse that one,
And on EVERY car they sold..

Bobnotch Thu Apr 23, 2020 9:48 am

Clatter wrote: Bobnotch wrote: Qldelsie wrote: Perfect, thanks Bob. I will put the other fuse in the line to the coil.
Giles

If you do, I'd put it near the fuse box, so that if it blows, it'll save the wire from burning.

Bob,

You put a fuse in-line on 'Old Crispy'?
(Our name for the black un-fused wire to the coil+ )

50A ?

I'm still trying to fathom why mother VW chose not to fuse that one,
And on EVERY car they sold..

I personally haven't done it on my own car, but on my son's car I think we went with a 15 amp fuse there. I sure wouldn't go to 50 amps there, as you want it to blow before you burn up "old crispy". Especially since the generator puts out about 45 amps. :wink:
Like I said, I haven't personally done it on my own car yet, but then I haven't gotten into doing that, since I haven't had an issue. Well that and I've been looking for the right fuse holder (blade type). I think I've finally got one now, after all of these years of looking, but not looking (wasn't high on my priority list).

Qldelsie Thu Apr 30, 2020 4:06 am

Reference adding the reverse light, I have now got a switch to add to the gearbox, and the wiring looks pretty easy as, accroding to the wiring diagram, nothing needs to go to the front of the car - Just goes via the coil.
The photos below show :- 1) The existing fitting for the bulb that was already in the car - It had a plastic seal in there - To keep dust out ?



2) Then I loosened the plastic seal



3) And took the seal right out



4) Got a T2 light socket



5) And took out the brass clip and inserted it stright into my existing fitting.



Too easy - But that begs another question. My indicator light sockets have a rubber seal that fits neatly over the light fitting to keep out dust and moisture, like this :-



So, does anyone know if these little rubber boots are still available from anywhere ? The part number is 311 945 281A, and I see there are some available out of the Philippines on the Samba Classifieds - Anyone bought items from there recently ? If not available, I will have to make something up, using an elasticated finger end off a rubber glove, or something similar !

Thanks all,
G

sjbartnik Thu Apr 30, 2020 7:32 am

That's a nice easy job!

The guy in the Philippines has a great stash of NOS stuff and people have had good results buying from him. That might be a good option for you based on your location.

Otherwise I would say check the usual suspects in the States like West Coast Metric or ISP West - or if you have any Aussie distributors for their products.

KTPhil Thu Apr 30, 2020 8:47 am

Is there a PN on that plastic cap? That must be one of the rarest of parts, great for a trivia contest in the future!

Bobnotch Thu Apr 30, 2020 12:48 pm

KTPhil wrote: Is there a PN on that plastic cap? That must be one of the rarest of parts, great for a trivia contest in the future!

Agreed. I've never seen that plug before.

Qldelsie Thu Apr 30, 2020 4:41 pm

KTPhil wrote: Is there a PN on that plastic cap? That must be one of the rarest of parts, great for a trivia contest in the future!

I thought someone might pick up on that little cap !! Which was why I posted the 3 pics of it ! And it obviously is an original part of the fitting because it is the same plastic as the fitting itself. And it is also even rarer than you think - The other side's cap was missing, so I only have the one :lol: It has been carefully bagged and labelled !

Is he really a "guy" in the Philippines ? Name of Joanna ?? Either way, they came back to me straight away and I will get from them. I checked all the other usual sources as mentioned above, and they all have the T2 type rubber cover, which is the wrong shape - The slot for the pin connector to come through is on the wide end, not the narrow end, so Joanna was the only one with the part I need.

Waiting impatiently for Clementine to come back from the paint shop ! Have spent the last few days wire brushing and painting the last few metal pieces I have so they are ready to refit, and have tried to refresh the rubber on the pop out rear windows which was looking very sad and cracked when we took the windows out. It was very rough to touch, so I sanded it back carefully with 400 grit, until it was smooth to touch, and then used AutoGlym rubber treatment lotion on it, and it seems to be a bit more flexible, and certainly looks a lot better. I will dose it every couple of days for a week or so. I think they will survive ok. :)

G



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