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Nessal Sun May 10, 2020 12:20 am

I figured I would start documenting my 66' KG coupe restoration during these times and have some memories to look back on in the future. I already posted some pictures of this prior but did not think about posting a restoration log at that time so here goes.

Here was how it stood as of yesterday.






Nessal Sun May 10, 2020 12:27 am

05/10/20

Here I'm pulling out all of the padding on the floorboard/rear seat/firewall. I'm not sure what is in these padding but I'm still itching after a shower. The pan has surface rust on them and will need to be treated. However, they are actually quite SOLID so I will not have to do a pan off restoration. I plan to clean up the interior and then lay down a few coat of Rust Bullet. I had great success with this product in the past. I actually want to apply Rust bullet on the entire interior minus the dash. What do you guys think? I will have to get a wire wheel and remove the paint in order to have the Rust Bullet stick well. I feel like that might not be necessary if there is no rust. Maybe just Rustbullet the pans and the tunnel?




After pulling the rear pad and tar board....guess what I found? SAND. It looks like the original car was red but when the PO had the car repainted, they sandblasted it with the padding still in place. As you can see, only the exterior and the dash were painted.


Ant B Sun May 10, 2020 2:05 am

Nice project sir.
I shall enjoy watching your progress.


Ant.

TRS63 Sun May 10, 2020 10:03 pm

Nice project, looking forward to follow along!
How are your heater channel? That is more than usually the reason for a pan-off..
Cheers
Antoine

Nessal Tue May 12, 2020 9:06 pm

TRS63 wrote: Nice project, looking forward to follow along!
How are your heater channel? That is more than usually the reason for a pan-off..
Cheers
Antoine

The heater channels are all solid. Thanks for the suggestion since I didn't think to check them.

Nessal Tue May 12, 2020 9:11 pm

05/12/20

I started working on getting rid of the tar on the pan. WOW is it a real PAIN IN THE ASS. I spent a few hours and this is as far as I got with a torch and a blade scraper. I had to wear a respirator while doing this because the fumes were quite strong. There has to be a better way. I first tried a wire brush but the tar makes very slow work of it. In fact, it was much faster with a scrapper. It looks like this is the original pan because you can see that it was painted the same color of the body.

Initially, I was thinking of just leaving it and just treat the small rusted areas. But I decided that if I'm going to do it, then I should just do it right. So I'm going to have to scrap the tar off the entire pan and then remove the paint and then apply Rust Bullet. This is going to take a while and I usually only have 4-6 hours a week to work on it while trying to juggle work and life.

Any suggestions on speeding this along is highly appreciated.



Nessal Thu May 14, 2020 9:29 pm

05/14/20

I finally got about 80% of one side done. There are definitely some small rusted areas but the entire pan will be coated with Rustbullet after I'm done. It took me about 10 hours to get to here. There are a lot of small spots that the razor blade couldn't get to. I will have to hit those area with some degreaser. The next update will be when both pans are done. I'm creating small goals for myself on a weekly basis. By the end of this week, I will have one entire side done. The following week will be the driver's side pan.



jeffrey8164 Fri May 15, 2020 5:34 pm

What are those wheels?
They’re great and something I’ve never seen before.

67 Florida Deluxe Fri May 15, 2020 7:04 pm

Has the dash face been replaced? It's missing the holes for the '66-only dash trim. :-k

Nessal Fri May 15, 2020 11:14 pm

jeffrey8164 wrote: What are those wheels?
They’re great and something I’ve never seen before.


The brand is Epsilon. They came with the car and the previous owner has 205 width tires on there. I'm actually planning to go back to stock wheels.

Nessal Fri May 15, 2020 11:15 pm

67 Florida Deluxe wrote: Has the dash face been replaced? It's missing the holes for the '66-only dash trim. :-k


It's no apparent in the photos but the previous owner had them filled in and painted over. I can't say that I'm too bothered by it since those pieces are super rare.

John Moxon Sat May 16, 2020 12:17 am

Nessal wrote:
It's no apparent in the photos but the previous owner had them filled in and painted over. I can't say that I'm too bothered by it since those pieces are super rare.

Hmmm...Super rare? Super available as a top quality repro: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=2229431

c21darrel Sat May 16, 2020 8:36 am

Nessal wrote: 67 Florida Deluxe wrote: Has the dash face been replaced? It's missing the holes for the '66-only dash trim. :-k


It's no apparent in the photos but the previous owner had them filled in and painted over. I can't say that I'm too bothered by it since those pieces are super rare.

I bought a 66 ghia for the dash trim. :oops:

Nessal Sun May 17, 2020 9:44 am

John Moxon wrote: Nessal wrote:
It's no apparent in the photos but the previous owner had them filled in and painted over. I can't say that I'm too bothered by it since those pieces are super rare.

Hmmm...Super rare? Super available as a top quality repro: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=2229431


Super interesting. I'll look into those.

Nessal Sat May 23, 2020 9:27 pm

Looks like I had to remove the body afterall. There were spots that I could not access for rustproofing with the body on. In addition, I realized that it was just much easier with the body off to do many things. I put the body on bricks for now. I wanted to create a dolly like some have done but felt that I wouldn't be keeping the body off for long and I don't need it to be mobile or have any space issues. It's pretty solid and I could put my weigh on the front and rear and it doesn't move. Any opinions on this? I don't need the body to move around to do work plus summer is coming and it's going to be too hot to do any work outside anyways.



Remember that rat's nest of wiring? Well it looks like the previous owner drilled three holes in the front and ran a bunch of wires from the engine bay and exited near the gas tank. I pulled them all out. He also welded in a plate to relocate the battery up front. I'm going to run the battery where the stock location is. It looks like he ran the cables through the tunnel next to the shift linkage. I'm not sure that this is the best way since the linkage binds against the cable making it hard to get into first gear. Anyways, with this removed, there is no longer any issues.






Vladiiiii Sat May 23, 2020 11:26 pm

Oh wow, I was having issues how to add cables for oil temp and RPM to the back without it interfering to much with the wiring loom, and then there's your type of previous owner... :shock: But great for using the correct approach, especially when there's so many things modified to "correct".....

About the bricks? I have mine on 4 jack stands right now and also have no stability issues. The thing with the 4 legged jack stands is that the base is much wider than the top, so I think that's more suitable than the bricks (than can say, fall to the side easier with sideways force). But if they are wide enough (can't judge by the pictures), you may be fine. Just don't push it to the side :lol:

My 2 cents :oops:

Nessal Sun May 24, 2020 1:21 am

Vladiiiii wrote: Oh wow, I was having issues how to add cables for oil temp and RPM to the back without it interfering to much with the wiring loom, and then there's your type of previous owner... :shock: But great for using the correct approach, especially when there's so many things modified to "correct".....

About the bricks? I have mine on 4 jack stands right now and also have no stability issues. The thing with the 4 legged jack stands is that the base is much wider than the top, so I think that's more suitable than the bricks (than can say, fall to the side easier with sideways force). But if they are wide enough (can't judge by the pictures), you may be fine. Just don't push it to the side :lol:

My 2 cents :oops:


Thanks for chiming in! I actually decided to use the bricks instead of the jack stands because the bricks are a little over 20cm(8") and my jack stands is smaller than that and felt more dangerous. I guess I will see how it works out.

Yeah the wiring is pretty bad. If I were you, I would run the wire with the factory loom. I plan to run 5-6 wires on the factory loom before I put everything back together. This way if I ever need to install gauges or other electronics, it would be much easier. I will tuck the wires out of sight until needed.

rbsurfguy Sun May 24, 2020 7:33 am

Vladiiiii wrote: Oh wow, I was having issues how to add cables for oil temp and RPM to the back without it interfering to much with the wiring loom, and then there's your type of previous owner... :shock: But great for using the correct approach, especially when there's so many things modified to "correct".....

Vlad, I am running any extra wires along the passenger side under the sill plate like the main loom, that way they'll be covered, since the sill plate over the main loom just barely covers. Just a thought.

Sorry Nessal for jacking the thread! Your garage space is awesome though!!
Jeff

Nessal Thu May 28, 2020 9:14 pm

I got really lucky today. I was ready to fab up a plate to weld over the handbrake hole after I cut it out. However, I discovered that the previous owner actually did not cut out the hand brake section but rather welded over it. I found this out accidentally when I was going through the process of removing the 8' 4ga battery cable that he ran to the front from the rear. I put a borescope through the tunnel and saw that the heater tubes and ebrake tubes were still there. So instead of just cutting out that entire section, I took an angle grinder to the welds and then a dremel to finish it off. I'm going to clean up the welds later.




Having said all of that...does this look intact for me to just buy a handbrake set and install it or is something cut or missing? I can't seem to find any pictures of how this handbrake hole is supposed to look.



Nessal Thu May 28, 2020 9:15 pm

rbsurfguy wrote: Vladiiiii wrote: Oh wow, I was having issues how to add cables for oil temp and RPM to the back without it interfering to much with the wiring loom, and then there's your type of previous owner... :shock: But great for using the correct approach, especially when there's so many things modified to "correct".....

Vlad, I am running any extra wires along the passenger side under the sill plate like the main loom, that way they'll be covered, since the sill plate over the main loom just barely covers. Just a thought.

Sorry Nessal for jacking the thread! Your garage space is awesome though!!
Jeff

Thanks! Not jacked at all!



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