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vwmattm Sun Jun 07, 2020 8:02 pm

Hey all-

I'm in the midst of replacing the fuel lines on a new to me '84 1.9L Vanagon using the GoWesty kit (GVW-FUELLINE). Going fine, but I'm a bit confused at seeing the return lines from the fuel rails go into a regulator mounted to a bracket on the engine, which then goes to another regulator before going back to the tank. I haven't seen such a thing in any diagrams, is this stock or something the PO did?

Here's what I'm looking at, the regulator at the front (top) is what has me confused:



Thanks!

SGKent Sun Jun 07, 2020 9:44 pm

don't own a vanagon but to me that looks like a vacuum device. The bus FPR have a fuel in, a fuel out and a vacuum source. If you look at it, you will see one side of it goes over to what appears to be a brake booster check valve. Might start looking for that in the manual.

tjet Sun Jun 07, 2020 10:54 pm

Those clamps on the fuel lines are not OEM.

kamzcab86 Sun Jun 07, 2020 10:55 pm

SGKent wrote: If you look at it, you will see one side of it goes over to what appears to be a brake booster check valve. Might start looking for that in the manual.

If you look even closer, you'll see the vacuum line goes a T-fitting, which connects with the original FPR; from the T, the vacuum hose goes to the stock location, which is next to the brake boost hose. :wink:

The secondary FPR is on the return (to the tank) line for some reason. This second FPR is not factory, AFAIK.

hdenter Mon Jun 08, 2020 12:50 am

Secondary FPR might have been installed to increase fuel pressure at wide open throttle. In discussions about how to get more fuel into the motor with stock injection and a turbo, it was suggested to add a secondary FPR that would raise FP an additional 5 or more PSI and flow more fuel under boost. This may have been an attempt to do something similar.

Hans

ZsZ Mon Jun 08, 2020 2:21 am

or probably the OE 4 port regulator gone bad and it was easier to add a good 3 port one than searching for an OE style

djkeev Mon Jun 08, 2020 3:08 am

ZsZ wrote: or probably the OE 4 port regulator gone bad and it was easier to add a good 3 port one than searching for an OE style

Say what?

The 1.9 had a three port regulator, I guess four if you count the vacuum port, but only three fuel connections.

I don't see the fuel Tee from the tank, or is it under that paper towel?
Did the PO replumb the fuel flow and eliminate the Tee?

Dave

ZsZ Mon Jun 08, 2020 3:10 am

djkeev wrote: ZsZ wrote: or probably the OE 4 port regulator gone bad and it was easier to add a good 3 port one than searching for an OE style

Say what?

The 1.9 had a three port regulator, I guess four if you count the vacuum port, but only three fuel connections.

Dave
Yes I meant 3 fuel port + 1 vacuum = 4 port, and 2 fuel port + 1 vacuum = 3 port

MarkWard Mon Jun 08, 2020 3:41 am

Definitely not stock. If the original regulator had failed and was not maintaining system pressure, this would have been a quick and easy solution to get the fuel pressure back up to spec. I’ll need to remember that fix.

vwmattm Mon Jun 08, 2020 6:14 am

djkeev wrote:

I don't see the fuel Tee from the tank, or is it under that paper towel?
Did the PO replumb the fuel flow and eliminate the Tee?

Dave

The T is right on top of the paper towel, but 2 of the 3 fuel lines are disconnected from it in this picture.

Other then this regular situation, it seems like everything else is correct.

I was afraid this was done to compensate for something abnormal. I hadn't planned to replace the FPR, but maybe I should order one and try and go back to using just one.

What else would cause a low fuel pressure; insufficient flow out of the fuel pump? That thing is noisy, and has both the big canister style and pre-filter before the pump right now. Also something I'm replacing in this project.

MarkWard Mon Jun 08, 2020 7:15 am

First step would be to put a fuel pressure gauge on the rail. There should be a T at the base of the oil breather stand with a tiny bolt sealing it. Don't drop the bolt. You can measure your current pressure with the rig, and then bypass the secondary regulator and test again. To test full system pressure, you can carefully crimp the return to the tank from either regulator and that will peg the system pressure.

Without testing fuel pressure you have no idea whats going on. You should also do a fuel volume test described in the factory manual.

Pumps make noise when they wear out, but also when they are cavitating due to a restriction on the inlet side.

Wildthings Mon Jun 08, 2020 11:19 am

I would go with the theory that the OEM pressure regulator went bad but was left in the system as a "T" when the other regulator was added. Not the way I would probably do it but effective.

Yes check your fuel pressure so you know what is going on.

Steve Arndt Mon Jun 08, 2020 11:49 am

Belt and suspenders lol.

vwmattm Mon Oct 12, 2020 7:05 pm

Finally coming back to this. Back a few months ago I ordered a new FPR as it seemed prudent given the comments and its (assumed) age. But the new one, an Intermotor brand one from O'reilly's has a raised area where it meets the mounting bracket causing it to not sit flush against the bracket.

Are others seeing this as well? Do I just need to take it to the hardware store and find a big washer or something to make it wide enough to rest fully against the bracket?
From another thread this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CB01NI/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&me= was linked as replacement, which from the image there, has the same raised area below the threads.

Here's what I'm talking about, the raised area below the threads for the nut:

jlrftype7 Mon Oct 12, 2020 7:26 pm

vwmattm wrote: Finally coming back to this. Back a few months ago I ordered a new FPR as it seemed prudent given the comments and its (assumed) age. But the new one, an Intermotor brand one from O'reilly's has a raised area where it meets the mounting bracket causing it to not sit flush against the bracket.

Are others seeing this as well? Do I just need to take it to the hardware store and find a big washer or something to make it wide enough to rest fully against the bracket?
From another thread this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CB01NI/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&me= was linked as replacement, which from the image there, has the same raised area below the threads.

Here's what I'm talking about, the raised area below the threads for the nut:


I think the big washer as as shim would work fine. You don't need a large amount of torque on that nut to keep the Regulator in its bracket.

MarkWard Tue Oct 13, 2020 4:48 am

A shim sounds fine. Can the hole in the bracket be enlarged? I would verify the engine runs with the new regulator before you go to any extra trouble.

Abscate Tue Oct 13, 2020 5:36 am

vwmattm wrote: Finally coming back to this. Back a few months ago I ordered a new FPR as it seemed prudent given the comments and its (assumed) age. But the new one, an Intermotor brand one from O'reilly's has a raised area where it meets the mounting bracket causing it to not sit flush against the bracket.

Are others seeing this as well? Do I just need to take it to the hardware store and find a big washer or something to make it wide enough to rest fully against the bracket?
From another thread this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CB01NI/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&me= was linked as replacement, which from the image there, has the same raised area below the threads.

Here's what I'm talking about, the raised area below the threads for the nut:


The OOO Oreillys as an O for each time yohave to repeat work for crappy parts

Jake de Villiers Tue Oct 13, 2020 7:01 am

MarkWard wrote: I would verify the engine runs with the new regulator before you go to any extra trouble. The voice of experience! 8)

vwmattm Tue Oct 13, 2020 7:14 am

Jake de Villiers wrote: MarkWard wrote: I would verify the engine runs with the new regulator before you go to any extra trouble. The voice of experience! 8)

Indeed!
I'll definitely verify the pressure readings with a temp setup, just need to get some screw clamps instead of using ear clamps and cursing myself if I have to take them off again! :D

vwmattm Tue Oct 13, 2020 7:27 am

As I've been comparing my setup to the Bentley, I'm noticing my vacuum hoses are not routed correctly. As you can see in my first post's picture, the line coming off the retard on the vac can doesn't go to the circuit with the FPR and intake manifold. But the Bentley doesn't call out what sizes or types of lines these should be. I understand there are both rubber and hard plastic lines involved here, but its not clear to me which is which. I've read here that folks say to use a better quality hose off of the FPR in case is fails, what are folks using?

I have some length of 3.5mm hose from VanCafe, is that ok to use for all the circuits on both the advance and retard sides of the house? It seems like the nipples on the vancuum can and the various tee's etc are different diameters; are there supposed to be convertors at the end of them?

I'd love to see any 1.9 engine bays if someone has a clear pic of the whole thing. Searching for engine pictures is tough on here.



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