TheSamba.com Forums
 
  View original topic: Gland nut torque
blue buggy dan Sun Jul 05, 2020 6:35 pm

Hey there guys. New vw owner here, the vw air cooled scene is new to me ao forgive me for my naivety. I bought a sand rail with a 2300 stroked beetle motor. Leduc trans. Have to replace the rear main, engine is pulled which was a first for me. Loved how easy it was! Anyways, gland nut is an 1-7/8. Torque needs to be 450/480 according to the builder. What method did You guys use to torque properly? I don't want to risk under torque and trashing a built motor. Red lock tite is at hand. Thanks in advance. :D

Glenn Sun Jul 05, 2020 6:37 pm

blue buggy dan wrote: What method did You guys use to torque properly?
Big ass torque wrench

Dale M. Sun Jul 05, 2020 6:48 pm

4:1 torque multiplier.... 150 ft-lbs on input side yields 600Ft-lbs output...My particular unit is good for 1000 ft-lbs output max....



Plus (10-150ft-lbs) ....




You also want a flywheel lock...


(graphics unceremoniously ripped from Google Images)

NO LOCKTITE....

But here is always crude method, 3/4 breaker bar and 5 ft hydraulic jack handle (cheater pipe) and about 90 lbs pressure applied at end...

Dale

dustymojave Mon Jul 06, 2020 3:20 pm

I hope there is an aftermarket gland nut (bolt that holds the flywheel to the crank and has a pilot bearing inside of it...Why is it called "Gland Nut" as opposed to "Gland Bolt"? "gland" is because it has a bearing inside, but why "nut"?... I can't say :roll: .)

The factory VW spec is 217ft/lbs or 30.0mkg.

If you try to torque a stock gland nut to 450ft/lbs, you will learn how much fun it is to get the broken remains out of the crank. Large head 4130 gland nuts MIGHT take that kind of torque, but many aftermarket ones will not. As to how much torque the threads inside the crank will take before failure...?

And I hope you have the means to hold the engine to that much torque on the end of the crank.

blue buggy dan Mon Jul 06, 2020 4:00 pm

It is a chromoly stroker crank guys. I'm sure that is a factor. Does torque that high sound right? I have read 405 on all chromoly set up.

dustymojave Thu Jul 09, 2020 2:12 pm

Yes. Chrome moly crank with chrome moly gland nut then MAYBE 450lb/ft of torque.

Still won't be fun holding the engine against application of that much torque.

earthquake Thu Jul 09, 2020 3:47 pm

Dusty
I have gotten the broken part out a couple of times for my friends that have broken them, I tell them to go in the house and get a beer and when they come out I usually have it out. Once they break they are usually not that tight because the head of the nut is what has the most tension, what I do is to drive a 1/2" extension in to the part that is stuck in the crank and turn it out. it has worked every time I have tried it.

Casey

dustymojave Thu Jul 09, 2020 5:47 pm

When my friend overtorqued his supposed 4130 gland nut and broke it, it had a spiral break that went into the part inside the crank. When he tried to wedge something in there, it expanded the broken piece and made it harder to get out. I wound up having him bring it to my place where I welded a piece of tube into it, then used a pipe wrench no that. Had to be careful welding so as not to weld to the crank. Since it broke off inside the crank, it wasn't fun. If it sheared off flush or outside the crank, it would have been easy.

I've long since forgotten what brand that gland nut was. But since so many of the old brand names are now owned by EMPI... :roll:

blue buggy dan Thu Jul 09, 2020 6:31 pm

Got it figured out guys. Previous owner had pulled it once already and it was not torqued down to 450 came off too easy to be that tight. New parts are on order. Will follow manufacturer torque specs.

SamT Thu Jul 09, 2020 7:34 pm

I hit the aftermarket nuts with my ingrasol 1/2” impact. Check them with a 3/4 drive breaker bar.

Dale M. Fri Jul 10, 2020 7:09 am

SamT wrote: I hit the aftermarket nuts with my ingrasol 1/2” impact. Check them with a 3/4 drive breaker bar.

Got to be worst process going..... There is little accuracy in just using impact and "checking" with breaker bar...

Dale

SamT Fri Jul 10, 2020 9:28 am

Dale M. wrote: SamT wrote: I hit the aftermarket nuts with my ingrasol 1/2” impact. Check them with a 3/4 drive breaker bar.

Got to be worst process going..... There is little accuracy in just using impact and "checking" with breaker bar...

Dale

I’ve probably built and sold or ran 100 motors (Many 8,000 rpm) and never had one come back for the flywheel coming off. I also use red locktight. Impact says 650, I bet it’s 100 less though.

I just do the stock gland nuts with the 18” breaker bar. One foot on the head and give it what ya got. This is a Vw not a space ship.

TonyB Tue Jul 28, 2020 9:32 am

I've already got a hernia, so I got the VW torque multiplier tool ... its for 6 and 12 Volt flywheel gland and axle nuts and all you need is a 3/8" torque wrench and if memory serves 25-35 ft/lb torque depending on which you're doing.
I've used it on axle nuts and the gland nut on my new engine ... works slick!

https://www.amazon.com/Torque-Leverage-Compatible-...amp;sr=8-2


joemama Wed Jul 29, 2020 10:42 am

On the motor in my buggy, built about 17 years ago, I used an impact, and twice, broke the chromemoly heavy duty washer under the gland nut. It just shattered. Ended up buying a torquebuddy, and a washer from a different parts house. Really worried for a while, that the washer might break and ruin everything.

Scott SD Wed Jul 29, 2020 12:23 pm

I always use a Scat 1.5” chromoly gland nut and torque to 500 pounds with red loctite. Drag raced my 2276 with 1.6s 60ft times, speed shifting at 8k (8600 on the recall), never any issues. I have a piece of angle iron to hold the flywheel against the floor and use a long piece of pipe over the ratchet like a breaker bar. Calculate my weight from the radius, mark 500 pounds, and stand on the pipe. 500pounds is 2’10” from the center based on my 175 pound weight. No need for an expensive torque wrench.



Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group