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Sun Jul 12, 2020 3:31 pm

Hello Samba family,

I’m in the process of replacing brake pads for the first time by myself (admittedly overdue) and finding it impossible to put the new pads in. The space isn’t close to big enough. It was a pill getting the old ones out if that’s a clue.

It looks like my brake pistons are further in than any images I can find!

Brake pads: Napa Proformers PF-7021-M

Sun Jul 12, 2020 4:03 pm

you have to retract the pistons, and also those pistons are leaking. The calipers need a rebuild.

Put your year of bus into your avatar or sig line. 1971 and 1972 take a thinner pad than 1973 and later.

Sun Jul 12, 2020 4:13 pm

Thanks for the reply. That all sounds very bad.

How do I retract the pistons?

Can I replace the brake pads and drive safely until I can rebuild the caliphers?

1978 Type 2 Campermobile

Sun Jul 12, 2020 4:19 pm

Also that liquid is squeal grease from us attempting to put the squeal plate back in.

Sun Jul 12, 2020 4:20 pm

No, fluid on your new pads is a bad thing. It's a safety issue.

Pistons can be compressed with a simple C-clamp - it's pretty easy. Just turn the clamps handle and force the piston back into the bore.

Sun Jul 12, 2020 4:23 pm

Is the leaking piston assessment based on the squeal grease you see in the photo?

Thank you both!

Sun Jul 12, 2020 5:11 pm

You should get a can of brake clean and spray off the brake assembly lube
From the caliper piston boot

And to do the brake pads you should only remove 1 pad at a time .
That way the piston in the other half will stay stationary.

You can gently and slowly compress the piston back in its bore with
A pry bar or large screwdriver,
What I learned is first :
Use a turkey baster and remove some brake fluid from the reservoir
Before retracting the caliper pistons.

You also need brake Grease for the pins along with the brake clean

Do you have a repair manual for your bus?

Sun Jul 12, 2020 5:25 pm

Bleeders look in good shape. You can put a tube in them, the crack them to allow easy retraction of the pistons with a wood shim.

You need to get the bleeders working anyway since brake fluid needs renewal every 2 years,

Sun Jul 12, 2020 5:49 pm

vvolfbus wrote: Also that liquid is squeal grease from us attempting to put the squeal plate back in.
Is it the stuff that hardens up and dries soon after (starts in minutes)?, or a tube labelled "brake grease"? with no mention of "squeal" in the actual title?

Sun Jul 12, 2020 6:04 pm

I agree with opening the bleeders and then using whatever prying tool you have on hand than is big enough to get the job done. With all the pads out, you don't want any pressure in the system that could push one of the piston any further out than they are now.

Sun Jul 12, 2020 6:25 pm

Thank you everyone!! Brakes are replaced and she’s ready for our next journey.

What would we do without ya’ll!

Sun Jul 12, 2020 10:31 pm

To do this job you need to press the pistons back into the caliper. This is done with a C-clamp or, by me, carefully with a pry bar. It looks like your boot is torn, which can be replaced but easier to replace the whole caliper. Another thing if you are a 71 you need thinner pads, but the FLAPS will often give you the thick later version. Everyone would like to have the thick ones but they don't fit.
So look at your pistons to see if they are fully flush with the caliper. It is also quite possible you have a stuck piston, also cured by rebuilt calipers. There is really no point in doing it yourself. Rebuilt calipers and new disk rotors are great bargains.

Mon Jul 13, 2020 8:11 am

don't forget the thin metal plates. If they were missing you need to get some. The tabs have to fit into the pistons properly.

Mon Jul 13, 2020 9:37 am

They make piston retraction tools for this. Here is a picture of three different ones I use. You need the one in the lower middle or the one above it if you remove the caliper from the knuckle.

Mon Jul 13, 2020 10:07 am

Original poster says he is done, but I thought I would add to this for the next person using the Samba search engine.

As Steve noted, the 1971 and 1972 model years have a smaller pad arrangement. I am also under the impression that the early calipers, shoulder/locating bolts and probably (?) the rotor are also smaller and not interchangeable.

This thread goes right to where I rebuilt the calipers:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6674292#6674292

Mon Jul 13, 2020 10:15 am

So after you get those new pads installed and BEFORE you run off to test them, be sure to start the engine and pump your brakes a few times. Otherwise you might have a couple seconds of real excitement that’s better not to have.