franrose |
Thu Jul 23, 2020 1:22 pm |
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Trying to be patient with my '87 Westy Fridge. Is there a magic spell or mantra to make it work?
Before heading out on our maiden voyage (Just bought her!) I plugged in the fridge for a couple of hours at home and BINGO! it started right up on the propane. I was SO happy! But I didn't want to drive with the propane on, so I turned it off and hit the road. When I got to the campground I immediately turned on the propane and tried to start the frig (it was even still cold). Must have tried 20-30 times in those 2 days camping, and never got it started.
Any tips?!
I watched numerous, humorous videos on starting the frig. Even took the advice of kicking back with a beer for awhile, and chilling before trying again. :-)
Thanks for your help in advance! |
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danfromsyr |
Thu Jul 23, 2020 1:50 pm |
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1st welcome to the insanity
2nd yes there is a song/dance secret handshake chakra
3rd you can drive with it on propane. though you shouldn't gas up with it on
4th you should run it on 12v when driving if it's not on propane. in stock configuration 12v will automatically disconnect when the engine is off to protect your battery from draining. the button remains in battery mode. it's connected/disconnected by a relay triggered by the Alternator running.
the flue likes a nice 'draft' and heat from being on creates that nice draft.
so if you had propane off while driving and the 12v on while driving.. then it "should" start if you try immediately on shutting off the motor..
it may not if you want ~5+minutes. as the flue will have cooled down. |
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Ahwahnee |
Thu Jul 23, 2020 2:30 pm |
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Certainly most fridges will benefit from removal and cleaning, including cleaning of the little fire box (where the flame is).
As a stop-gap for that, some have has success by removing the cap on that tube extending out the bottom and (using a bit of tubing) blowing or sending a blast of compressed air into it. This can stir up the insides of the little box and whatever may be in there (dust, rust, bugs). It also is a way to introduce some air into the system that may perhaps improve chances of ignition.
I am unclear how the 87 may differ from my 84, but I can see the flame when it is lit by using the sight glass in the lower left corner of the inside of the unit. You have to be at just the right angle so it is worth looking for it sometime (at home) when you are sure it is lit.
When mine does light I continue to hold the button in, observing that the green light stays on. Depending on conditions and how long it has been off, this can take some time. Again, that is on an 84, an 87 may differ.
I recall a nice lady in the South Carlsbad SB CG who was on her first trip in her Westy. She had been unable to get the fridge to light the whole time and was stopping at GoWesty the next day to have it looked at before returning home to Sisters OR. I lit it for her almost right away and then we practiced a few times to be sure she could do it. I think she simply wasn't giving it enough tome to warm up before releasing the button. My point - if you can get an experienced owner to try it you may learn more of the technique that works for yours. |
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dgbeatty |
Thu Jul 23, 2020 2:44 pm |
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Edited
Take the time to service the fridge. Clean the burner camber, file the electrode flat, insulate both flu tubes, check the fan, check the fan thermoswitch, check and possibly adjust the propane pressure, lube the air pump. Soak the jet in carb cleaner! ADD a 1 amp fuse for the fan!. The Oring seals on the flu tubes must seal properly. Remove the internal fins, clean, renew thermal compound and reinstall.
Enjoy your fridge. An internal battery powered fan makes a world of difference. A bait areator pump connected to the condensate drain vastly improves lighting. |
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franrose |
Thu Jul 23, 2020 3:06 pm |
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Thanks for all the tips! A couple of questions:
Is it truly safe to drive with the propane on?
Ah! The little blue light . . . I've waited till dark and shut my head in the frig to try to see it. . . . and have heard of others who also have never seen "the lite"
Will keep trying! :-) |
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fxr |
Thu Jul 23, 2020 3:07 pm |
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dgbeatty wrote:
Enjoy your fridge. BTW the thermostat is only functional when on propane. Propane OR 110V. Not on 12V though. |
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franrose |
Thu Jul 23, 2020 3:11 pm |
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Hey danfromsyr! Might be good to learn the song/dance secret handshake chakra. Please post :-) |
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Ahwahnee |
Thu Jul 23, 2020 3:30 pm |
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franrose wrote: ...Is it truly safe to drive with the propane on?...
I won't declare it safe but will say that I always have it on propane when travelling (30+ years).
As I mentioned in another thread, I once ran the fridge on propane 24/7 for a year.
Some have experienced a flame-out while driving but mine has always remained lit. If it would blow out - no danger, just warm beer. |
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Yellow Rabbit |
Thu Jul 23, 2020 6:19 pm |
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I think the manual says to turn the flame knob all up to light it. Sometimes lighting mine at altitude there isn’t enough draft in the flue to keep it lit. If this happens I turn the flame all the way down. This is basically a pilot light only setting. It will light pretty easily. I let it run on pilot only for a few minutes then turn the flame up. It always works. |
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jmranger |
Thu Jul 23, 2020 10:16 pm |
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danfromsyr wrote: the flue likes a nice 'draft' and heat from being on creates that nice draft.
so if you had propane off while driving and the 12v on while driving.. then it "should" start if you try immediately on shutting off the motor..
it may not if you want ~5+minutes. as the flue will have cooled down. +1
The one time the fridge gave me a really hard time starting without pre-cooling on 120V, it ended up being the one-way valve in the air pump that was defective.
Now that you're back from your trip, I'd practice a few more time to see if you can get it to light reliably when pre-cooled. If you can, I'd really check the air priming circuit. |
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dgbeatty |
Fri Jul 24, 2020 8:18 am |
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When traveling we always ran on propane AND 12v simultaneously. If and when it was cold enough the propane would simply revert to a very low flame. Same in campgrounds when we had power 110v and propane. We had enhanced the cooling behind the fridge. |
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DLJ |
Fri Jul 24, 2020 9:53 am |
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PM me and I will walk you through the entire process. |
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dgbeatty |
Fri Jul 24, 2020 5:23 pm |
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Just a thought. Precooling, it is not the cooling that assist in lighting the propane it is the heating of the flu that in turn creates a draft. The fridge does not need to be cool ie it is the warming of the flu that helps. I have always preferred creating a draft by blowing air into the condensate drain with a small bait aerator during start up. An electronic sparking unit as fitted on the late Westies is a big assist and will relight if necessary.
Last thought. Replacing the led indicator with a brighter led helps to confirm the fridge is lit. |
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Fidor |
Wed May 21, 2025 7:55 am |
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I get coldness on AC. Good beer-chilling coldness.
I can see the pilot on propane, but I do not get a "click" or sense that the flame has increased when turning the thermostat knob. I am also sensing heat from the vent at the end of the cabinet, but i suspect the pilot running for the past 3 hours might account for this. Despite all of this, no coldness is happening inside the beast.
I am suspecting the thermostat/flame safety valve is not functioning? If so, is this something for which I could even find a replacement? |
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colins84 |
Thu May 22, 2025 11:04 am |
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Fidor, maybe you’re having the same problem I’ve had on a few fridges.
Allow me to direct you to a method that has worked for me…
Symptoms are: fridge runs on 120V, & 12V just fine. Propane ignites and you can feel heat emitting from the vent on the side of the cabinet, and heat coming out the vent outside, but the inside of the fridge will NOT cool on propane. Here’s been the fix for me:
Scroll down to ALIKA T3
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=801663&highlight=ammonia |
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colins84 |
Thu May 22, 2025 11:08 am |
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Also, we can assume your thermostat is working, because it is cooling on 120V, and we can also assume your safety switch on the propane side is working correctly as it lit and burned for 3 hours. This tells me that your thermocouple is intact and sending voltage to the propane safety switch.
You might have to get ready to remove that fridge for a little TLC :) |
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Fidor |
Fri May 23, 2025 9:43 am |
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Appreciate the responses.
I took the fridge out a week ago and cleaned out the firebox. Prior to that, i was having difficult getting thing lit.
To Collins' comment, I'm not getting any audible click (as has been reported) or flame sound, or any other indication that turning the thermostat from min to max is affecting the flame in the firebox anything more than the pilot being lit. I will go fire it up and leave it on min to see if i am getting the same heat at the side vent today though.
Question re the ALIKA T3 method - Is there any reason that it has to be rigged for propane outside the van to accomplish the ammonia crystal unclogging as opposed to using AC? I know the thing heats with AC. I ask because i don't want to have to figure out how to get the DC (aftermarket?) igniter wired to a 12v supply. The original "pump" igniter is not wired to the firebox. |
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