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tdoman Thu Jul 23, 2020 5:41 pm

I've got a 1600 cc air cooled engine on my dune buggy with a Weber Progressive carb. It drives fine on the dunes for several hours. Then the engine will randomly/slowly lose power like it's struggling for gas and shut off. I try to start it again and sometimes it comes back on. When it doesn't, I let it sit for a while and try again later and it starts again. It seems like sand might be getting into the carb and messing it up.

So I'm wondering if it's possible to convert it to fuel injection to solve the problem. If so, can anyone direct me to an economical solution for converting to fuel injection with instructions how to do it?

Matt Wilson Thu Jul 23, 2020 5:55 pm

This could be as simple as a clogged fuel filter, or maybe something more annoying like vapor lock.

Fuel injection conversions can cost big $$$

UnHappy Thu Jul 23, 2020 6:34 pm

i read sommewhere that the vw 1600 bigest ennemy are heat and dust. but to me its sound more like a heat probleme than a dust probleme. If the sand do enter in the carb like u say this is no good and convert it to fuel injection whont solve the probleme u must look for a bether way to clean the air that enter your carburator

tdoman Thu Jul 23, 2020 6:51 pm

I know it's not the fuel filter cause I just replaced it. I have a new sand cover over the carb so I don't know what else to do. Is there a way to prevent vapor lock?

When you say big $$, like how much?

I know it's not a heat problem. I have a cylinder head temp gauge and it shows the temp stays consistent the entire time.

Dale M. Thu Jul 23, 2020 7:22 pm

Electric fuel pump directly under tank prevents vapor lock....

Dual Weber or EMPI 40's would unleash the beast.... Weber progressive is not best for a carburetor...

Dale

tdoman Thu Jul 23, 2020 9:00 pm

Q&As on these dual empi 40s say it's too much for a 1600 cc.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BBJUGL2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qYLgFbJKPQEJG

These seem to be a better for the 1600 cc... Do you agree?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003KKFD86/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vULgFb7NZGHY5

joemama Thu Jul 23, 2020 9:32 pm

Is it a fiberglass buggy running a stock gas tank? If so, check the sock filter thats in the outlet of the tank.

Wulfthang Thu Jul 23, 2020 9:57 pm

Running fine for several hours and then losing power to a stall sounds like a heat problem, as in vapor lock. The head temps may stay fine but if the fuel system is heating up slightly faster than it can cool itself off, it'll heat/vapor lock after a while. A pull type fuel pump only makes it worse because it reduces the pressure in the fuel line which makes more susceptible to heat issues. Cool the fuel system down or pressurize the fuel line with an electric pump or both.

tdoman Thu Jul 23, 2020 9:59 pm

No, it's not. Here's what it looks like.



dustymojave Thu Jul 23, 2020 10:02 pm

And what gas cap does it have? What is the vent for the gas tank? I had a similar mystery problem once upon a time that turned out to be a pinched vent hose.

I don't recommend vented gas caps for offroad cars. Get it upside down or even bouncing around right side up and there is likely to be lots of gas all over the place.

tdoman Thu Jul 23, 2020 10:33 pm

The gas cap isn't vented and I don't see any vent on the gas tank.

I suppose it could be a vapor lock issue. I've got a low pressure electric fuel pump that I'll try and see if it makes a diff.

This was another interesting video I found on how to prevent your stock fuel pump from vapor locking that I'll check out: https://youtu.be/eU6aVBW71Es

dustymojave Thu Jul 23, 2020 10:42 pm

So if the tank is not vented and neither is the cap, then how does air get in to replace the fuel that you pump out into the engine? Unless it's a soft bladder like a water balloon, the fuel tank HAS to vent! If it's not vented, then THAT's the problem.

Dale M. Fri Jul 24, 2020 6:35 am

dustymojave wrote: So if the tank is not vented and neither is the cap, then how does air get in to replace the fuel that you pump out into the engine? Unless it's a soft bladder like a water balloon, the fuel tank HAS to vent! If it's not vented, then THAT's the problem.

Ditto...

Next time it fails back gas cap off a turn or two (release vacuum in tank) immediately and see if its cured... As Dusty states tank must vent....

Dale

Dale M. Fri Jul 24, 2020 6:38 am

tdoman wrote: Q&As on these dual empi 40s say it's too much for a 1600 cc.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BBJUGL2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qYLgFbJKPQEJG

These seem to be a better for the 1600 cc... Do you agree?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003KKFD86/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vULgFb7NZGHY5

I disagree on both, but then its not my vehicle or the performance I want....

95 percent of the people who bad mouth dual Weber's can not tune them so they believe the carbs are a problem...

Dale

liquidrush Fri Jul 24, 2020 7:41 am

I don't think your problem is fuel at all, it sounds more ignition. I'd swap out the coil and the condenser first and see what it does.

rayjay Fri Jul 24, 2020 10:30 am

It looks like the vacuum hose barb on the LH intake is not capped.

rayjay Fri Jul 24, 2020 10:32 am

The throttle cable tube is missing and the cable looks frayed already.

earthquake Fri Jul 24, 2020 12:08 pm

+3 on the cap! I had this problem on my old Auto-X 1976 Civic.
be careful if you open the cap, when I was having the problem my buddy opened the cap and fuel sprayed all over him, when it sucked air in it blew gas out because the tank was full.

eQ

dustymojave Sun Jul 26, 2020 6:07 pm

earthquake wrote: +3 on the cap! I had this problem on my old Auto-X 1976 Civic.
be careful if you open the cap, when I was having the problem my buddy opened the cap and fuel sprayed all over him, when it sucked air in it blew gas out because the tank was full.

eQ

X2

Big Al Tue Aug 18, 2020 5:09 pm



My fuel injected rail. Type 4 engine. Can take better pictures if anyone is interested.

Al



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